The wheels were launched in 2013 after 4 years of rigorous testing and development. After a successful Kickstarter campaign they are now available to purchase online. Stay on top of the latest engineering news Just enter your email and we’ll take care of the rest:
Great comments and I would like to explain the questions raised, because it is a huge innovation. Wheelchair: Nothing is rigged about it. Two of the cheapest identical Invacare wheelchairs were bought and one was modified with the Air Suspension Wheel technology. Zoltan (the inventor) has never been in a wheelchair before and therefore it may seem a bit clumsy, but definitely nothing was done intentionally. Here is the video of how it works in gravel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A429IzLKbWM&t=2s.
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The company has set its sights on large mining operations to get things moving; a market where time is money, costs can be projected across decades and gigantic, short-run tires for enormous equipment can cost tens of thousands of dollars each.
They won a £24,000 Innovate UK grant in 2013 that helped them to develop the loopwheel for wheelchairs. A further £240,000 grant in 2017 allowed them to work with 2 companies, Strategic Simulation and Analysis (SSA) and Composite Braiding, to further develop the loopwheel to go faster and for use off road and on rough terrain.
With scores of iterations, and hundreds of man-hours invested in the final product they are undeniably good-looking wheels, at first glance (and second glance, and then just staring at them) they wouldn’t appear out of place on a BMW concept car – but this isn’t pie-in-the-sky, these wheels are here and, thanks to their Kickstarter success, very much NOW!
The rim won’t bend or suffer from any deformation. Just the hub will move relatively to it. Ryan on April 15th, 2013 - 9:32am Nash on April 15th, 2013 - 11:00am ant1 on April 15th, 2013 - 1:29pm g on April 15th, 2013 - 11:36pm i'd like to see some comparisons on April 23rd, 2013 - 1:15pm
Loopwheels fit most manual wheelchairs. Choose spoke colour, sticker colour on black wheels, add tyres and pushrim type.
Not for you? At the end of your trial we’ll arrange collection of your wheels – no obligations, no questions asked, no extra fees.
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The twin-screw supercharger provides near instantaneous torque, has a maximum speed of 14,600 rpm and can regulate boost pressure up to an astounding 11.0 psi.
Schwinn High Timber ALX Youth/Adult Mountain Bike, Aluminum Frame and Disc Brakes, 29-Inch Wheels, 21-Speed, Black
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The first performance-focused steering wheel on a Ram Truck boasts integrated aluminum shift paddles, a flat-bottom shape and available carbon fiber and Alcantara® suede accents—exactly what you should expect in a performance truck.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
GACW Inc has signed a Supply, Service and Exclusive Agent Agreement with Brownfield Engineering and Maintenance Pty Ltd, a leading Australian engineering and maintenance company to market and distribute GACW’s Air Suspension Wheel (ASW) technology to the mining Off the Road (OTR) sector.