Loopwheels are designed with suspension within the wheel itself: in place of rigid spokes, they have three loop-shaped springs.
I'm looking to buy Enkei RPF1's. I am undecided if I should go with the 17 or 18 inch size for stock suspension. I am driving a coupe and have always felt the RPF1 visually looks 2 sizes smaller than they actually are, but I don't want to install coilovers yet - maybe in a few years, but not now. First Name Jay Joined Mar 18, 2018 Messages 9 Reaction score 3 Location Idaho Car(s) 2016 Honda Civic
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If this is the case, are there any mods that have wheels direct-mounted to a simple block?
Also showing up for this jam packed webcast we have Honza with the recumbent news, Jason Dubin with his project to build and race velomobiles with New York City youth and then Ben Goodall owner of Trisled tells us about the newest update to the Rotovelo. With Recumbent Cycle-Con cancelled I’ve edited Chuck Coyne’s interview to reflect the history of the event, Mark Lovegrove from the UK talks about his two e-assist motor installations, Larry Varney reviews the AR3 tilting trike and Denny’s sports segment features John McWhae who just completed a record making ride across Alberta in spite of his battle with arthritis. 2021 Recumbent Cycle-Con Postponed Posted on July 31, 2021 by Larry Varney
Find suspension kits that fit your ride with our easy search tool! Enter your vehicle’s year, make, model, and trim to find aftermarket suspension that is specifically designed for your truck. From lowering kits to leveling kits and truck suspension lift kits, we have everything you need to achieve the look that you want for your wheels.
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You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
Final pricing hasn’t been set, but it looks like the standard wheelset should run about $2000 when they are available sometime later this year. In each of the wheels they use tech called Adaptive Rigidity that seems to be an optimized suspension tune geared to “absorb the bumps that matter and stay rigid over the ones that don’t”. How that is achieved isn’t entirely clear, but is certainly a unique take on suspending a bike. notRapha on May 20th, 2016 - 8:06am Matt on May 20th, 2016 - 8:36am Greg on May 20th, 2016 - 8:44am
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It’s an elaborate design and really shouldn’t warrant hate in itself, but it’s a questionable application for bicycles. This would be awesome in smaller city cars, perhaps. ChudTruMud on May 20th, 2016 - 7:48pm
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Stainless steel spring loaded casters wheels Material: PP core with TPR wheel Suspension Mount: SUS 304 Wheel Size:Ø75 x 32mm,Ø100 x 32mm,Ø125 x 32mm Load:70kg,100kg,120kg Bearing: Ball Bearing
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If so, what possible use could the 1x1 wheels ever have other than on a rail, as they're too small in diameter to make any meaningful clearance for terrain use?
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Suspension Wheels Loopwheel & Softwheel Home Parts & Accessories Accessories Suspension Wheels SoftWheel state that their wheel's innovative in-wheel suspension technology can help reduce pain and provide a more comfortable ride. 3 suspension arms are built inside the wheel and automatically compress when encountering an obstacle or rough terrain, but remain rigid and strong over flat surfaces The arms are set equidistant around a central hub to provide shock absorption - no matter what the angle of impact is. The suspension arms immediately reset and return the wheelchair – and rider, to a level ride. Standard Specifications Carbon Fibre springs with Hydraulic and Pneumatic damper suspension rams Aluminium hub - to suit 1/2" quick release axles Max Travel: 32mm Carbon Fibre rims Standard 6-tab hard anodised push-rims 32mm clearance required if you have mud guards Wheels are not interchangeable between left and right sides * Wheel weight without pushrim and tyres A Loopwheel is a wheel with integral suspension, designed to reduce vibration and increase performance and provide greater comfort. Loopwheels give you a smoother ride. They are more comfortable than standard wheels: the carbon springs absorb tiring vibration, as well as bumps and shocks. They’re designed for everyday use and are strong and durable. They won’t run as true as a spoked wheel, but they will be a lot more comfortable. Loopwheels are not just a wheel, they’re a suspension system. Loopwheels help people push over uneven streets, rough tracks and gravel paths, with less effort, and the carbon springs give you extra power to get up or down kerbs. They reduce jolting and vibration, by as much as two thirds compared with a spoked wheel. Users report that this helps them manage pain. With standard quick release axles, a choice between 12mm or ½ inch bearings and available in 24″ and 25″ sizes, loopwheels fit most manual wheelchairs. Standard Specifications Carbon fibre Loop suspension Load limit: 120kg Max Travel: 70mm Double wall aluminium rims Standard 6-tab hard anodised push-rims Contact us for available colours * Wheel weight without pushrim and tyres