An integrated switch bank features up to six auxiliary buttons, and an available Trailer Reverse Steering Control system.
They will absorb even small shocks from the vibration of the road—unlike regular wheels. This means really smooth ride—even on a rough surface! Name Loopwheels Classic Loopwheels Carbon Loopwheels Urban Loopwheels Extreme Description A good value wheel offering everyday comfort, health protection and pain relief A Loopwheels Classic Wheel with 12% extra carbon for extra lateral stiffness, great for power attachments A light everyday wheel A wheel specifically designed for off-road use, including with a power attachment Features Comfortable Different colour options Stable Great carbon finish Lightweight – lift with one hand Looks great Supremely comfortable ride Off-road styling Lightweight Supremely comfortable ride Wheel diameters 24″ (BSD: 540mm) 25″ (BSD: 559mm) 24″ (BSD: 540mm) 24″ (BSD: 507mm) Colour options 6 colour options 10 logo colour options carbon with white outline logo carbon with white outline logo carbon with white outline logo Weight 1.8kg 1.8kg 1.3kg 1.3kg Vibration reduction (compared to a Spinergy Day Wheel) 60.90% 60.90% 109% 109% Lateral stiffness Good Very Good (20% more than Classic) Excellent (37% more than Classic) Excellent (37% more than Classic)
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The Global Air Cylinder Wheels team has also sent us a bunch of video detailing the advantages of a much smaller scale ASW for wheelchairs. Because of the built-in suspension effect, you'd likely experience more ride comfort, as well as a vastly superior ability to negotiate uneven ground without any of the wheels lifting off and losing stability.
A suite of customizable performance and off-road pages, designed to help tailor vehicle performance to your exact driving needs, are integrated within the digital cluster and massive 12-inch touchscreen.
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Yeah, I think that’s definitely a neat idea. Depends on how well it works, though. And how much it weighs. And how much it costs.
We hope you’re delighted with your purchase, but if you’re not completely satisfied there are lots of ways we can help.
Give thanks, be humble23rd May 2018Getting started22nd May 2018LeJogLe, 6 years later21st May 2018#BeMoreMike – thoughts on a Welsh ride12th April 2017Early morning mountains in Geneva12th April 2017
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Loopwheels are optimised for adults. If you weigh less than 50kg, you won’t feel as much benefit from the suspension as someone heavier.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
TOMALL Scooter Rear Wheel Fixed Bolt Screw Stainless Steel Fixed Screw Kit 2 PCS for Xiaomi Mijia M365 Electric Scooter
GACW Inc has signed a Supply, Service and Exclusive Agent Agreement with Brownfield Engineering and Maintenance Pty Ltd, a leading Australian engineering and maintenance company to market and distribute GACW’s Air Suspension Wheel (ASW) technology to the mining Off the Road (OTR) sector.
From their initial musings over 4 years ago to the recent debut at Bespoked Bristol, Loopwheels has been a labour of love for them.