Yeti Packed SeriesWe take a deep dive into what YETI athletes pack for their adventures into the wild.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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I bought these for my two year old grandson who loves everything cars. I’m sure he’ll love them.
If you don't mind...what are the full specs of your wheels/tires? I'm just wondering because I have the X model and I know the widths and everything will be slightly different and no staggering for me. I think your setup looks great considering no drop, but I don't know how it would compare to an X model with no staggering or spacers etc.
They won a £24,000 Innovate UK grant in 2013 that helped them to develop the loopwheel for wheelchairs. A further £240,000 grant in 2017 allowed them to work with 2 companies, Strategic Simulation and Analysis (SSA) and Composite Braiding, to further develop the loopwheel to go faster and for use off road and on rough terrain.
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When you have plenty of bicycle to work with, such as is the case with a mountain bike, it’s not such a big deal to design it with front and rear suspension. When the bicycle in question is a diminutive folding city bike, however, it gets a bit trickier. That’s why UK industrial designer Sam Pearce has created Loopwheels. Instead of relying on a suspension fork and rear shock, it lets the bike’s 20-inch wheels absorb the bumps.
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With every rotation the springs will bend and absorb a amount of energy. Normally this is called “damping”. Its pretty useful in some cases. But it’s pretty unusual to damp a rotation of wheels, because this will slow down the straight moving. For Bicycles (and all other vehicles) you should mount your springs in the direction where the impact is coming from plus a additional damper to stop the bouncing of the spring. David on April 14th, 2013 - 6:03pm Hmmmm on April 14th, 2013 - 6:31pm
Loopwheels give you a smoother ride. They are more comfortable than standard wheels: the carbon springs absorb tiring vibration, as well as bumps and shocks. They’re designed for everyday use and are strong and durable.
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Joined Mar 19, 2021 Messages 55 Reaction score 108 Location Dallas, TX Website uwgtb.com Car(s) Land Cruiser 200 Series, '21 Supra
Vibration is higher on rougher surfaces and at higher speeds, for example when using a hand bike attachment off-road. Who can benefit from Loopwheels? A smoother and more comfortable ride Alleviating pain Increase Mobility Spend more time with friends Does it fit?
Bikes, both manual and electric, are another big market for SoftWheel, which employs six people and is located in the Haifa area. “With cities around the world implementing biking programs for commuter, there is a big market for more comfortable rides,” said Barel. “Our wheels can easily replace the standard ones used for bikes, and make bike commuting much more comfortable.”
Home About Mogo Product Range Get In Touch Stockist My Account Account Home Orders Quotes Pay Invoices Favourites Wishlists Resolution Centre Edit My Details Edit My Address Book Reinvent Your Wheelchair Experience! The AcrobatTM" is the only wheel system that enhances your ride and capabilities. The AcrobatTM absorbs shocks and vibrations while providing extraordinary rigidity and stability. SoftWheel’s patented energy-efficie I have read and agree to Terms & Conditions and Privacy Policy. Please tick this box to proceed.
Curve & Curve L are a high quality, ergonomic push rim designed and made in Germany. These are available in two sizes: ‘Curve L’ for a larger hand, or ‘Curve’ for smaller hands. Designed for wheelchair users with complete hand function.