One designer wants to increase shock absorption in mountain bikes by replacing standard spokes with shock-absorbing coils. Triple the shocks, triple the fun!
Much better to start with the wheelchair and bicycle markets, which are easier to break into. “Most of the world’s wheelchairs are used in hospitals, but there is a large premium market for people who want to live active lives but are restricted to wheelchairs by their disabilities. These people want to be as mobile and self-reliant as possible, and our technology makes this possible,” said Barel.
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In addition to these suspension extra springs are added at the handle and below the seat which gives the rider a smooth ride.
If it offers a lot of suspension travel than it has potential, but if it’s only a little bit, then one has to wonder why they didn’t just upsize the tire and lower the pressure a bit. stodr on April 14th, 2013 - 3:15pm
The second grant has allowed us to work with 2 other fantastic companies that we just would not have been able to do otherwise. It has allowed us to develop a world-class product. Related content PyroGenesys Deos: delivering faster and better mobile medical screening Power roll: bringing cheap solar power to Africa and India Improbable: digital firm raises $20 million from US backers Beattie Passive opens new factory to meet demand for retrofit Collection Innovate UK: case studies Explore the topic Charities and social enterprises Science and innovation UK economy Disabled people Is this page useful? Maybe Yes this page is useful No this page is not useful
That’s why you don’t want suspension between the ground and your hubs. Plus, many, many other reasons. potbellyjoe on May 20th, 2016 - 11:27pm
Vibration In Lower Back
Wheelchair With Bicycle Tires
Absorb Shock
Lower Back Pain And Body Shaking
Shock Wheel
Wheelchair Wheels And Tires
Balance Beads – Please note that balance beads are not guaranteed. While we use the most exceptional and up-to-date weight charts to ensure we are installing the correct amount of beads for your specific application, there are many variables that we are unable to account for. While it is extremely rare, some wheel and tire assemblies simply do not balance out perfectly with this type of balancing technique and we are unable to confirm this until the assembly is mounted onto the vehicle. If you are having any issues at all, please let us know and we will be here to help!
Previously on bespoken we’ve featured articles on manual and motorised chairs which help the user negotiate uneven streets and rougher pathway, but a lot of them have been both expensive and a bit impractical for day-to-day use. A new Kickstarter, Loopwheels, addresses this problem with a simple and far more affordable design. Loopwheels contain integral suspension meaning the wheels absorb more shock than a standard wheel and allow the user to negotiate tougher terrains with greater ease and comfort. The Kickstarter also says that they can be fitted onto most standard wheelchairs. Following up from a successful campaign to raise funds for the Loopwheel as a bike wheel, this latest project has already raised over half of its £16,000 goal with 28 days left to go.
Put three of these on your trike, then write up your evaluation for the TA readers.
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The composite springs give you extra power to get up or down kerbs. Loopwheels replacement wheelchair wheels are more comfortable than standard wheels: they absorb tiring vibration, as well as bumps and shocks. They naturally adjust for uneven camber – the slope on the side of a road. With standard quick release axles and two sizes (24″ and 25″), Loopwheels fit most manual wheelchairs. Products Default sorting Sort by popularity Sort by average rating Sort by latest Sort by price: low to high Sort by price: high to low Loopwheels Extreme From: £1,800.00 View Options Loopwheels Urban From: £1,800.00 View Options Loopwheels Carbon Wheels From: £1,199.00 View Options Multi-Coloured Loopwheels Classics From: £999.00 View Options Coloured Loopwheels Classics From: £899.00 View Options Black Loopwheels Classics From: £799.00 View Options
Each wheel incorporates a regular hub, with a hub brake and hub gearing. Instead of spokes, however, three looped carbon composite springs run from the hub to the rim. Whenever the wheel hits a bump in the road, the energy is absorbed by those springs.
VANHAWKS VALOUR CARBON FIBER BICYCLE INCLUDES SECURITY SENSORS AND PERFORMANCE TRACKING
Stainless steel spring loaded casters wheels Material: PP core with TPR wheel Suspension Mount: SUS 304 Wheel Size:Ø75 x 32mm,Ø100 x 32mm,Ø125 x 32mm Load:70kg,100kg,120kg Bearing: Ball Bearing
This extra carbon creates a slightly stiffer spring, which means a comfortable but more stable ride. Loopwheels Carbon are for manual use at speeds up to 7 km/h. For use with a power attachment, choose our Urban or Extreme products instead.
So, be sure to tune in, Sunday, February 7, 2021 – at 4 PM EST, by clicking this: https://youtu.be/zx5hUHSoUKw or the photo below!
On front wheels, the whole strut swivels to allow steering. Pivoted arms extend inward and forward to the frame in order to keep the wheel upright and resist accelerating and braking forces .
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
agreed..but if money is an issue, I'd grab the $100 set of springs first then get the wheels. from experience in my trans am, springs/shocks/struts/whatever made a HUGE HUGE HUGE difference. I put vette wheels on and I just got wider tires which was sweet but i noticed a BIGGER difference from springs/shocks Well, my budget only allows for one at a time, and i'm just worried if I get springs ill have to just take guesses on wheel/tire sizes. I'm very unfamiliar with this kinda stuff as it is my first go. From what I am gathering the springs i'm planning on getting lower 1.5 - 1.75 im guessing the 1.75 is after they kinda break in over time. Not sure. However, the issue is knowing what tires to go with. If I have to chose 1.5 or 1.75 which is a better option? Keep in mind i'm most likely getting 15X7wheels, seems common enough and im not big on bigger size wheels, hell, i'm rocking 13's at the moment, steelies.. but 13's either way Also, I am not the fan of the "slammed" scene. I am more so into the flush look. Deleted wheel gap but not so over the top that negative camber makes my wheels look broken So from this information hopefully I can get some guidance with a tire size for 15X7 or maybe a slightly different recommendation based on the ride height adjustment soon to come. I also may consider 16's but 15's prefered. lets B-serious here tho, suspension first or else you'll be at stock hight or bounching around on these ebay special "coils", don't cheap out on tires like I see soooo many ppl do. lets B-serious here tho, suspension first or else you'll be at stock hight or bounching around on these ebay special "coils", don't cheap out on tires like I see soooo many ppl do.
As the founder & CEO of Wyze, Joe has a huge passion for using digital strategy to grow & expand brands in the modern marketing environment. Wyze is a creative digital agency for outstanding eCommerce brands. We grow our client's sales through our digital products & services.
It will never be perfect, there will always be slight compromise. Now, we have three to contend with. Tony on May 21st, 2016 - 1:24am
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That was a fantastic read. Thanks for sharing, I have already made a list of things I want to do with my car, granted not an interior list nor a 100% complete list, but as far as budget and small things (considering its just gonna be a mild modded DD) as the thread you linked calls it but I still got something out of it. Thanks again. Eventually i'm going to do a B-Swap but suspension work is a no brainer to get out of the way, atleast in my opinion OK..........so why are you asking us what should you do first if its a no brainer to you? Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. A good riding spring lowers the car about 1-2" maximum. Some suggestions would be eibach pro kits, h&r sports, or Tein S techs with koni STRT shocks. They'll work fine with 15x7 +40 or so. I'd use 205/50/15's. But you can also use the stock 195/55/15. If you buy the wheels/tires first, the car will look funny until you lower it.
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Loopwheels for wheelchairs help people push over uneven streets, rough tracks and gravel paths, with less effort, and the carbon springs give you extra power to get up or down kerbs. They reduce jolting and vibration, by as much as two thirds compared with a spoked wheel.
item 5 Hot Wheels New Loop Track Free Shipping Loop Builder 5 -Hot Wheels New Loop Track Free Shipping Loop Builder
In today’s full-suspension mountain bikes, the front and rear shocks do excellent jobs lessening those impact forces. And that helps keep riders logging miles and turning switchbacks.
item 4 NEW Mattel Hot Wheels Track System HW Loop Track - Free Shipping 4 -NEW Mattel Hot Wheels Track System HW Loop Track - Free Shipping
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This if for the wheelchair bound, super fast, super cool t-shirt wearing individual. Printed on a Navy T-Shirt with white lettering.
We deal in all things mobility and disability related! We customise, we hire out and we repair wheelchairs. If you are looking for rehabilitation equipment or daily living aids—whether it’s a lift chair, commode, hoist, tap turner, automatic can opener or walker—we can help you. Come in store or buy online! Occupational therapist Physiotherapist Neither
There are two basic types of vehicle suspensions: independent and solid axel. The main difference between these two is that both right and left wheels attached to the same beam i.e. solid axle, while independent suspensions make provision for one wheel to go up or down without affecting the other wheel.
UPDATE: After several long rides on very rocky mountain roads and trails I just had to change my rating from 4 to 5 stars. This bike is that nice, and it didn't seem fair to down grade the rating due to slow poor FedEx service.
If god wanted a different wheel he wouldn’t have made them round to begin with. Louis IV was correct in closing the Patent office….all things worth being invented…were invented by the 17th century.
Ok, here they are! 18x9" +40mm offset. Wheels are gloss black with ball cut "machine" finish accents on the spokes. Front and rear fenders pulled to gain 5mm rear and 8mm up front approx. I'm utilizing the slotted upper strut mount for an additional -0.3 negative camber which also adds 3-4mm more tuck at the top of the tire. Good news however is NO POKE! ^^^Savings of 11 1/4 lbs per corner! Noticing improved acceleration...especially in 3rd gear for whatever reason. Not enough seat time in the car to give much more detail than that but I will say that when you run more "stretch" in your tire setup, your steering response time really quickens up as a result of the reduction in sidewall "deflection." U can go too far with that theory and encounter some negative handling traits so beware. I won't be lowering the car as I have a steep entry into my driveway. I also like the handling of the car in Sport mode with the Type R rear sway bar installed and would rather leave it alone as it is currently well balanced. Ok, on to the pics. Also a link here for a video walkaround: First Name Richard Joined Aug 12, 2017 Messages 352 Reaction score 225 Location San Diego Car(s) '17 WOP Civic HB Sport 6MT, '03 Honda CBR600RR Vehicle Showcase 1
Not finding what you're looking for? Head over to our blog page to find some of our most popular wheel packages. If you need additional help, our customer service team will be happy to assist in any of your fitment needs!
4: Up hill- this is where i think you may encounter difficulty. since its a climb. assume that you follow case 1, then you should be at least fine here. you have to focus on the ground distance to hub must always be greater than radius of wheel parallel to inclination of climb. (because imagine case 1, if your hub is no longer at the center, you will be lifting your self. in an inclined position. more difficult than lifting in a plane.
Loopwheels' funding campaign runs on Kickstarter through May 15, 2013. Backer packages range from a single front or rear wheel to both wheels to a Dahon folding bike pre-pimped with its own set of 3-speed Loopwheels.
Without a suspension system, the car’s wheels would hit a bump and move up and down perpendicular to the road surface. This vertical energy would be transferred to the car’s frame, which would pull the wheels away from the road before gravity takes over and slams the car down. The suspension system must be finely tuned using a combination of springs and shock absorbers to reduce these effects for a comfortable and smooth ride.
Curve & Curve L are a high quality, ergonomic push rim designed and made in Germany. These are available in two sizes: ‘Curve L’ for a larger hand, or ‘Curve’ for smaller hands. Designed for wheelchair users with complete hand function.
Suspension blocks are the quickest way to provide both, in addition to suspension and turning capabilities, but don't necessarily meet all demands. A rotor can also be used, but has a much lower maximum speed (60rpm, regardless of wheel size) for propulsion purposes - however it can also have its braking torque set to 0 to make it a free-wheeling axle.
Each time the wheel revolves, you’re compressing “suspension”. This means that precious rider energy is being wasted, constantly. It’s kind of like the drag you get from soft, 5″ fat tires.
We’ll deliver a set of trial Loopwheels directly to your door with instructions on how to fit these to your existing chair. Ready fitted with tyres and alu push rims.
Towing & PayloadEngine PerformanceUconnect® SystemsEcoDieselMultifunction Tailgate
Stainless steel spring shock absorber casters Material: PP core with TPR wheel Suspension Mount: SUS 304 Wheel Size:Ø75 x 32mm,Ø100 x 32mm,Ø125 x 32mm Load:70kg,100kg,120kg Bearing: Ball Bearing
buddy thanks a million, i think u just answered my question, i have the same width rims and tires. i was wondering how much room i might have in order to figure the suspension.
I was gonna make a snarky remark about damping, but if that setup provides <1.5" or so of suspension on a commuter bike, it's probably a good thing. Max on April 14th, 2013 - 5:58pm
Bold, beautiful and precision-engineered to last. The iconic in-wheel shock absorbers offer a truly unique style. Whether made from aluminum, magnesium or carbon fiber, SoftWheels are guaranteed to turn heads day or night.
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This illustration shows how the Loopwheel handles bumps compared to a conventional spoked wheel View gallery - 6 images
The Loopwheel system uses springs instead of spokes, giving the wheel built in suspension.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
