Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
The gantry was to work by building a framework, with rails constructed from 1x1 blocks. The gantry X/Y axis arms are to traverse the rails with wheels. There would then be some pistons for the z axis, a rotor, and finally a landing gear for grabbing. All pretty straightforward stuff. On something like this, you do not want suspension on the wheels:
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You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
My Account Sign In Compare Products My ScootersB2BContact Us Skip to Content My Cart Menu Home Genuine Spare Parts Suspension, Wheels, & Brakes Genuine Scooters 16 items Malossi 1 item NCY 1 item Piaggio 1 item RMS Italia 2 items SIP 3 items Vespa 7 items Vintage Vespa Item 22 items Spare Parts 66 items Performance 5 items View as Grid List 20 40 100 All Position Product Name SKU Price Sort By Position Product Name SKU Price Set Descending Direction SKU: 084631C Wheel Rim 10 inch CHROME Rim Regular Price $64.95 Your Price $59.95 Add to Cart SKU: 060536 Upper Shock Mount Rubber Block SKU: 084631PA Wheel Rim 10 inch PIAGGIO SKU: 177451 Fork Pivot Bearing Kit 20mm ( SF534-1939) SKU: 563246 FRONT BRAKE DISC ROTOR - ET2/4 LX S PX STELLA PRIMAVERA SPRINT (56395R) (1C000110) (C-3721415) SKU: 084631A Wheel Rim 10" Repro SKU: 000061 Vintage Vespa Brake Shoe Clip SKU: 016406 Lock Washer 6MM (003106 016335) (C-4773770 SF504-1040) SKU: 003056 Flat Washer 6mm (S.3056 013777) SKU: 072339 P-PX-Stella & Others Brake Shoe PAIR SKU: 2466204R Adjustable Rear Shock Vintage Vespa (White Spring) SKU: 003751 Lock Washer Upper Steering Bearings (30x40x2.5) (0037514 003751) SKU: 58572R PX Master Cylinder (563788) SKU: 182546 Hub Cap for Hub Nut Most Vespa Scooters SKU: 194433P-30 Italian Made 10" Rear Hub 30MM- PX125E-PX200E-Stella (242772 GC-4723921 845048) SKU: 078522 Brake Shoe Spring SKU: 177610 (15 X 35 X 11) Ball Bearing for 20mm Front Hub (SF504-1104) SKU: 177442 (20X26X16) Bearing for Front Hub - 20mm Fork SKU: 177414 D Spacer Washer - 20mm FORK SKU: 177445 Spacer Washer - 20mm Fork Original Parts Modern Vespa Parts Vintage Vespa Parts Modern Maintenance Vintage Maintenance Piaggio Spare Parts Accessories Modern Vespa Parts Vintage Vespa Parts Modern Maintenance Vintage Maintenance Piaggio Spare Parts Shop Services Modern Vespa Parts Vintage Vespa Parts Modern Maintenance Vintage Maintenance Piaggio Spare Parts
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@Michael Lau Presumably yes, since part of your energy will go into moving the hub within the wheels. But since they're springs, you'll get most of that back, so it's probably close enough to a wash to not matter much. Especially on a purely A-to-B type bike like a folder. Edison Ong April 18, 2013 06:40 AM
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It remains static on standard floors or smooth pavements but shifts to an active response mode when the wheel encounters obstacles. The wheel’s hub symmetrically expands or shrinks to absorb the transmitted shock.