People out there lucky in the sense that they know how to ride a bike but unlucky in the sense that doing so jars their spines and brains and generates great discomfort in the crotchal region, say hello to Loopwheels. Loopwheels are 20" bicycle wheels with built-in spring systems between their hubs and wheel rims that provide suspension and cushioning from road bumps and potholes. So that everyone who finishes a Loopwheeled bike jaunt does so with lumbar vertabrae, tailbone, and rectum as intact as they were before the ride began.
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My wheels are staggered, TSW Mugello 20" wheels, no spacers, and am running Toyo Proxes TS tires, 245-35z fronts and 285-30z rears. Not sure how they would be for an X. Hope the info helps! I think 20" on stock is just fine. The ability to adjust the height is the main reason to go with coilover? Well after reading all this I think I will go with the General G-MAX AS-03 245/35/20 at all four corners (since I have an X model) and the 20" Enkei's seen here. Should look good on my moonlight white. I plan to do this in spring so I'll post pics when it's done if anyone still cares at that point. Attached Thumbnails Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Top Honda-Tech - Honda Forum Discussion > Honda and Acura Model-Specific Technical Forums > Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion Hey guys, I have a little project i'm starting up with my EJ2 and I have a hard time figuring out which is better to come first wheels or springs. I have decided to go springs over a full coilover due to budget and I dont really plan on changing height afterwards and I also don't hit tracks. That being said which would be better coming first? The way I see it, lowering the suspension first gives me an idea of wheel sizes I can manage without scrubbing, but at the same time rims/tires offers the same results in a way (atleast how I see it). However, I could be very wrong so I am looking for some input on the better way to go about it. Again, keep in mind I am not getting full coilovers, I would consider coilover sleeves that fit over the strut but as previously stated i'm not really looking to constantly change ride height all the time. It's basically going to be a one and done type deal. Inputs would be greatly appreciated! Like Both are in decent shape, but im talking rims and tires not just tires. I'm trying to figure which way would be the best way to get a stance started.
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You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
A good feature to add to most all Hot Wheels track layouts. A buyer needs to study his/her layout to determine if you can use this add on.
The Unistrut P2751N 4-Wheel Loop Trolley with Nylon Wheels is designed to have an easy attachment point to suspend and move equipment overhead. Clevis Material: 12g. Design Load: 20 lbs. Wheel bearings are stainless steel and should not be lubricated. More Information SKU P2751N-EG EAN 0786364275123 Lead time 14 14 Pack Size Each UOM EA UPC 786364275123 Brand Unistrut Finish Electro-Galvanized
With 12% extra hi-tech carbon than our classic Loopwheels, Loopwheels Carbon offer a sportier ride – so you can go steadier and stronger than before. The same comfort and protection against damaging vibration as our Loopwheels Classic, with additional lateral stability for an added feeling of security. Designed for a sportier suspension than our Loopwheels Classic, at low speeds and primarily for manual use. Gorgeous carbon finish and reflective logos to help you be seen in the dark
Though the Audi e-tron may mark just the beginning of a new electric era, we find some things simply don’t change no matter the method of propulsion. Improving upon elements like a car’s stance, and also the wheels and tires, remain some of the most effective ways to improve the aesthetic of any car… electric or otherwise.
The three loops in each wheel work together as a self-correcting system. This spring system between the hub and the rim of the wheel provides suspension that constantly adjusts to uneven terrain – cushioning the rider from bumps and potholes in the road. In effect, the hub floats within the rim, adjusting constantly as shocks from an uneven road hit the rim of the wheel.
Hi we are new to a air ride equipped motorhome and are wandering if it is ok to lift the wheels off the ground with the Jack's when leveling on those unlevel sites, the chassis is a Freightliner XC and it seems like the air bags are really stretched if the wheells and everything are pulling down on them in this situation ... We just do not want any damage to the system. Your input would be appreciated thanks The weight of the axle pulls down on the air bags but the weight of the front axle assembly is supported by the length of the shocks. When the shocks become fully extended, air bags, leaf or coil springs, that's when the front axle assembly quits moving down. I'm with everyone that doesn't like the looks of wheels in the air, but it doesn't hurt anything and I have done it. Think about this: The only way your motorcoach can roll away is if it's on the wheels. If it's up on the jacks, it can't roll. A good backhoe operator will hike the rear tires (where the brakes are) up in the air to get it up on the hydraulics where it is solid and stable, before operating. Sometimes they raise the front tires up with the bucket. Ever seen a mobile construction crane? First thing they do is raise all the tires up off the ground to get the unit level and stable before operating. I'm not saying to lift your coach that way, but it's not the big deal that some people try to make it sound like. On my Freightliner with the stiff rear end and V-Ride, if I lift one side a couple inches, the duals will come off the ground. Not a big deal because the jack won't roll.
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Hey kids, here's a surefire way to make your parents construct an advent calendar counting down the days until you go back to school next fall. The Turbospoke system, a battery-free, pedal-powered child's dream, fits...
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A wide variety of goods used in shipment, material handling and warehouse including Tape supplies, Stretch film, Truck, Shelf, Crane and more.
The company has set its sights on large mining operations to get things moving; a market where time is money, costs can be projected across decades and gigantic, short-run tires for enormous equipment can cost tens of thousands of dollars each.
The first performance-focused steering wheel on a Ram Truck boasts integrated aluminum shift paddles, a flat-bottom shape and available carbon fiber and Alcantara® suede accents—exactly what you should expect in a performance truck.