Instead of sharing a common axle, each wheel on a car with independent suspension is independently attached to the body or subframe. Different spring combinations may be used.
The arm may be broadened into a V shape with two pivots, either side by side or with the inner pivot slightly behind the front one - a semi-trailing arm. Trailing arms are usually found at the rear only. A trailing-arm suspension on a rear-wheel-drive car. The arm is attached to the rear wheel hub and broadens into a V whose two arms extend forward to pivot on the frame. The differential is fixed to the frame and the drive shafts have universal joints.
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ko2's are more like 1k. unless he puts on some P rated stock size ones. which seems silly. $800 on Amazon for C load 285's - so I was a little off. I was also assuming prices of shopping around, or else the SPC's would've been stated a bit higher. Reply With Quote 03-15-2020, 11:03 PM #5
'In 2007 I was sitting in an airport in Holland, and I noticed when a mother pushed a pushchair against a kerb, the baby was pushed forward. Morning, world! Breathtaking image of the first light of... A bright idea: The astonishing glow-in-the-dark GM plants...
The wheels were launched in 2013 after 4 years of rigorous testing and development. After a successful Kickstarter campaign they are now available to purchase online. Stay on top of the latest engineering news Just enter your email and we’ll take care of the rest:
On smooth terrain The Acrobat’sTM innovative Adaptive RigidityTM technology keeps the wheel’s 3 shocks perfectly rigid like spokes. When encountering a bumpy surface, they automatically transform into soft and responsive shocks. With less energy lost to frame vibration and reduced impact to the rider’s body, The AcrobatTM offers a superior riding experience.
Have you owned this car from day 1? because that's definitely not sitting at the stock height. lol.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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Seating and Positioning Additional Mounts, Pads and Accessories Arms and Hands Basic Seat Accessories Belts and Harnesses Body Positioning Head and Neck Legs and Feet Wheelchair Backrests Wheelchair Cushions
Become a Partner Community Join our community Sign in About The Times of Israel Advertise on The Times of Israel Contact us 5,000 years later, the wheel gets an Israeli update With a flexible shock absorption system built into the wheel itself, SoftWheel boosts stability without sacrificing speed — in wheelchairs, bikes, cars, even planes By David Shamah 11 May 2014, 4:24 pm Edit Facebook Twitter linkedin email Print
The new company has financial backing from the RAD BioMed Accelerator group and is in collaboration with the Ziv-Av Engineering group. They are initially designing these wheels for wheelchairs, city bicycles and aircraft landing gear but the company says the technology would be used for other wheeled vehicles.
The Loopwheels’ spring system between the hub and the rim cushions the rider from potholes and bumps in the road. It also reduces road noise by absorbing it, thereby reducing vibration through the frame—and into the rider’s arms and body. Because the suspension is inside the wheel, you don’t need fat tires to make the ride nicer. Instead, you can use high-pressure or puncture-resistant tires.
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Logitech MX Keys Mini Gives You A Compact Keyboard That Can Pair With Three Devices Simultaneously
The current version is constructed from carbon composite strips developed in conjunction with an archery bow manufacturer.