Power Wheels With Suspension
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That was a fantastic read. Thanks for sharing, I have already made a list of things I want to do with my car, granted not an interior list nor a 100% complete list, but as far as budget and small things (considering its just gonna be a mild modded DD) as the thread you linked calls it but I still got something out of it. Thanks again. Eventually i'm going to do a B-Swap but suspension work is a no brainer to get out of the way, atleast in my opinion OK..........so why are you asking us what should you do first if its a no brainer to you? Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. A good riding spring lowers the car about 1-2" maximum. Some suggestions would be eibach pro kits, h&r sports, or Tein S techs with koni STRT shocks. They'll work fine with 15x7 +40 or so. I'd use 205/50/15's. But you can also use the stock 195/55/15. If you buy the wheels/tires first, the car will look funny until you lower it.

Wheels Urban

Because of the integral suspension, Loopwheels are more comfortable than standard wheelchair wheels. They absorb tiring vibration, bumps and shocks.
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Spring loaded swivel casters Wheel Material:PP core,PU wheels Size:Ø152 x 50mm ; Ø203 x 50mm Loading Capacity:260kg ~ 300kg Bearing Type: Double Ball Bearing

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Our Genuine Scooter Suspension and wheels along with parts such as rims, tires, shocks, hardware and more are made of the highest quality materials available, many are original Genuine parts. These will almost never fail, but when they get damaged or wear out you will need to replace them over time. Competitively priced and durable these are by far your best bet when replacing any of these components. Nice fit and finish help keep your Genuine Scooter riding smooth and safe over various road conditions. “Vespa. Everywhere.”

Looper Wheels

Ready to start poppin' wheelies like a G6? This Indoor Wheelie Trainer - OK, technically DIY Indoor Wheelie Trainer - from The Q fuses a cycling trainer, some wood, and a tie-down strap into a lean, mean trick-teachin'...

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Slip Wheels

PU wear-resistant flash wheel, high elasticity, non-slip, abrasion resistant, quiet and smooth, no damage to the floor, durable.

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    Trike Asylum archival and resource material for human powered recumbent tricycles

    OK, after pouring through much of the other thread, I felt I spent so much time looking at setups that weren't relevant to what I was looking to do...which is stay on stock suspension. So this thread is dedicated to Aftermarket wheels on stock suspension. *List wheel make and model with offset and width as well as tire make/model/size. *Try to take pics showing "poke." That means refrain from turning the front wheels for the pics. Keep 'em pointed straight and try to get some shots down the side of the car that will help others make a decision. *If you've rolled, pulled fenders and/or used the slotted strut mounts for more tire/fender clearance that is ok, just let us know when you post your setup.
    Making a bunch of assumptions about usage, you're up for a set of six of these huge hoops a year plus a spare, giving you a 10-year tire budget of around $2.66 million per truck. (These figures are adapted from the ASW company's own comparison spreadsheets, which use rubber tire pricing of $110,000 each from 2009. These tires are now much cheaper according to our research.)

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    Its new technology, focused around a flexible shock absorption system built into the wheel itself, allows for better stability when needed without sacrificing speed. “With all due modesty, I say that what we have created is a game changer,” said Daniel Barel, CEO of SoftWheel. “Our wheel technology can be developed for and retrofitted to any vehicle,” notably including bikes, cars and jet planes.

    [Hot Item] Spring loaded swivel casters, SA65SP-6''/8'', Caster Wheels, China, Factory, Suppliers, Manufacturers
    A loopwheel doesn’t have the same rigidity and stiffness that’s necessary in a spoked wheel.

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    Start by visiting our Product Support site. Here, you can access frequently asked questions about your product, receive set-up advice, download a manual and much more.

    Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. Suspension, but don't just slap on some lowering springs on stock stocks; invest the money and get both. Better to do both then put on lowering springs then have to break down the assembly two months later to replace the spent stock shocks. Save yourself some labor. yea true. its been answered.. IDK even know where I would move it to. So its closed 18" TE 37 wheel hop/, smaller wheels w/ bigger tires? heavier wheels? Suspension? Featured How-Tos Honda Civic: Body Modifications Why is My Dashboard Cracking? How to Paint Interior Why is My Engine Hesitating? Honda Accord: Fuse Box Diagram All How-Tos » Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Top View First Unread Thread Tools Search this Thread Log in | Register S2KI Honda S2000 Forums > General Interest > The S2000 Gallery The S2000 Gallery Cornucopia of sight and sound! Show your friends your S2000 photos, S2000 images, S2000 photochops and S2000 videos. so i've searched and searched but most threads are old so the pics dont work. my car is currently lowered and the rear is WAY too stiff so im thinking of going back to stock suspension and keeping my 17" wheels. ps. i've always driven lowered cars, dumped cars actually so i dont wanna hear the 4x4 comments or people bragging about how low they are. Here's my S2000. I am on stock suspension and have 18" Rota D2 wheels. I get a lot of compliments on it actually. yokes... suspension before wheels guys please for the love of the kittens I understand your opinion, but for some of us having a lowered ride height is not an option. My car is a daily driver...year round...through Michigan winters. Thus lowering makes my car less practical than normal. So the comment about "suspension before wheels" is unnecessary for me. I'd like to see how many guys that are lowered get through a Michigan winter like I do! I agree that the lowered ride height looks great, and if I had a second car or didn't need to drive through winter snow, I'd lower my car slightly as well. Drove my integra tucking tires thru MN winters when I was younger and I could only afford one car To be honest with the stock sized tires. My buddies stock s2k with stock ap2 wheels and tires doesn't look that bad at stock height. man my car is tucking and out here the roads are some of the worst around, stock height is not an excuse! No offense, but you live in Texas and your winters are nothing compared to Michigan. I don't mind my car at stock height; it works for me. Haters are always gonna hate... I'm sure you were brave enough to drive a slammed Integra through the winters but....did you want to? Did it handle great? Was clearance an issues? Let's be realistic guys... Not all of us can afford to lower our cars, or have second cars, or can deal with the impracticality. Different strokes for different folks. have you considered a small drop? maybe koni yellow or something Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Top Thank you for your quote request. A representative will get back to you shortly. For immediate assistance please call . Your Information: First Name* Last Name* Phone* Email* Select a Location* : E Whittier Blvd, La Habra, CA S Monte Vista St, La Habra, CA Salinas Tires & Wheels, Westminster CA N Hacienda Blvd, La Puente, CA Your Vehicle: Year Make Model Option — OR — Let us find your vehicle info for you: Get My Vehicle Info Comments * Required Field Suspension Repair in La Habra, CA Properly aligned steering and suspension can help deliver a smooth and controlled ride. Salinas Tires & Wheels offers quality affordable La Habra, CA auto repair services and La Habra, CA Suspension Repair. What they do: The steering system and suspension systems bear the weight of your vehicle, maintain the tires on the road while driving and assist in delivering a hassle-free, safer trip. Why service is necessary: The steering and suspension system must be checked at least once a year to prevent significant repairs. Anytime you feel symptoms of steering or suspension troubles have your mechanic check your car to correct the issue rapidly. Extended steering and suspension concerns will result in extreme safety dangers quickly. Indicators that you require your steering and suspension system examined consist of: Pulling to the side Troubles steering Complications driving over uneven roads or dips Vehicle continues to bounce after going over a bump Tires stray or shake Steering seems to be slipping To help ensure your steering and shocks are working appropriately, a technician may examine all of your steering and suspension parts, and will also evaluate: Power steering fluid Tightness of nuts and bolts Uneven tires or wear Unbalanced wheels Torn or used power steering belts Problems with alignment Impacts and/or Struts Steering Wheel Alignment Our technicians will also inspect your tires and tire balance to make sure the complications are not tire-related. We will take care of all of your steering necessities, call or stop in today for an estimation! Call Salinas Tires & Wheels soon to set up your next Suspension Repair and Wheel Alignment service. Salinas Tires & Wheels is proud to be your number one auto repair services in La Habra, CA and provider of La Habra, CA tires. Salinas Tires & Wheels proudly serves the local La Habra and Westminster, CA areas. We understand that getting your car fixed or buying new tires can be overwhelming. Let us help you choose from our large selection of tires. We feature tires that fit your needs and budget from top quality brands, such as Michelin®, BFGoodrich®, Uniroyal®, and more. We pride ourselves on being your number one choice for any auto repair. Let us earn your business. Home Tires Wheels Services Coupons About Us Contact Privacy Policy Terms of Use Sitemap Accessibility Powered by By clicking "Continue" or continuing to use our site, you acknowledge that you accept our Privacy Policy and Terms of Use. We also use cookies to provide you with the best possible experience on our website. You can find out more about the cookies we use and learn how to manage them here. Feel free to check out our policies anytime for more information. MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion > General > 2003-2009 Nissan 350Z > 350Z Roadster Before creating a new thread or contacting a moderator/administrator, please peruse the following threads first to see if it's already been addressed: My350Z.com Terms of Use (TOU) - || - Top 100 FAQs - || - Marketplace FAQs - || - Premier Membership I have searched through the modified Roadster picture thread, but I can't decipher which pics are wheels on stock suspension or if the car is lowered. Can the people with aftermarket rims and stock suspension please post pics of their ride. I want to see if aftermarket wheels would look weird on stock height. btw. I may be finalizing a deal on a ZR tomorrow...but I'm still undecided. These pics could sway me. Personally, I think it looks fine. The wheel gap left after putting 19's on my Z is even-spaced all around. Straight from the factory, the wheel gap on a Z is considerably less than most cars out there. Even compared to a handful of high-dollar supercars, the Z's gap is less. I've done the drop thing in the past, but I just can't justify it as much with the Z. Sure, it may look a little better dropped, but I don't think it looks bad at all with the factory ride height (with or without aftermarket wheels). damn that looks sweet! definitely dont need to lower anymore. I bought my wheels like almost two years ago, on the stock suspension, it made me wanna cry....look how horrible it looks, also it didnt help I bought the wrong size tires for the rear, a stretched 275/30, my 285/35's are the perfect size now, but even if I had them on stock suspension, its gross looking. these first two pics are without my Tein Stechs(the car looks like a damn truck its so high), the third is the same tires with the Teins, it looked alot better but the tire being the wrong size still bothered me, finally the last pics are Teins + 235/35 and 285/35 tires...its as close to perfect as I am going to get, any lower I would have to shave the fender wall and get some suspension, but I am happy where it sits. Last edited by atar350; 02-25-2007 at 11:01 AM. when i got my wheels i just rofl'd for awhile at the 4x4 look i had going. i had to do something about it so i got some hotchkis springs. mild drop, much better. It doesnt look bad at all, but the nice thing about the Teins and some other springs (not all, because some just slam the car to the ground) was it was less then an inchdrop and gave it a more aggressive stance, body roll really wasnt an issue on the Z stock, but with some good springs it feels even more solid, I'd recommend them to you. Beleive me it was bad without springs, here is a good pic of the horrid gap on stock suspension... Last edited by dutchboy350Z; 02-25-2007 at 11:25 AM. lol, 20's will help fill a tire well, your car looks good but is really high off the ground, your car would be baaaaaaad lowered some. The Z coupe does look like its riding high now that I took another look at it. So I am having a hard time deciding whether or not to trade in my car for the ZR. The whole impracticality of the car and having it as a daily driver even in winter is scaring me...someone help convince me... So I am having a hard time deciding whether or not to trade in my car for the ZR. The whole impracticality of the car and having it as a daily driver even in winter is scaring me...someone help convince me...
    If it offers a lot of suspension travel than it has potential, but if it’s only a little bit, then one has to wonder why they didn’t just upsize the tire and lower the pressure a bit. stodr on April 14th, 2013 - 3:15pm

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    I'm looking to buy Enkei RPF1's. I am undecided if I should go with the 17 or 18 inch size for stock suspension. I am driving a coupe and have always felt the RPF1 visually looks 2 sizes smaller than they actually are, but I don't want to install coilovers yet - maybe in a few years, but not now. First Name Jay Joined Mar 18, 2018 Messages 9 Reaction score 3 Location Idaho Car(s) 2016 Honda Civic

    It is a torsion bar crossing the car through two pivots on opposite sides of the frame.
    4.0 out of 5 stars Save time and trouble, get the whole assembly at once I tried the tire on its own, couldn’t get the old one off so getting the new one on was not even an option. Then I got the solid tire mounted to a wheel. Couldn’t get the brake disc off the old wheel, bolts stripped with little pressure. Then I found this little gem and I’m back on the road. Thank goodness for Amazon easy returns at Kohl’s. 4.0 out of 5 stars Save time and trouble, get the whole assembly at once By Locktographer on September 26, 2020 I tried the tire on its own, couldn’t get the old one off so getting the new one on was not even an option. Then I got the solid tire mounted to a wheel. Couldn’t get the brake disc off the old wheel, bolts stripped with little pressure. Then I found this little gem and I’m back on the road. Thank goodness for Amazon easy returns at Kohl’s. Top reviews from other countries It fits my m365 well, I thought it did not fit at first, but later realize I just have to adjust the angle a bit. I did a quick test ride, not as bumpy as I thought, I barely notice any difference, good job 1.0 out of 5 stars Misleading Reviewed in Canada on April 2, 2021 Best Sellers Prime Customer Service New Releases Today's Deals Pharmacy Books Registry Fashion Kindle Books Toys & Games Gift Cards Amazon Home Sell Automotive Computers Coupons Shopper Toolkit Home Improvement Video Games Smart Home Find a Gift Beauty & Personal Care Health & Household Amazon Basics Pet Supplies TV & Video Baby Handmade Disability Customer Support Amazon Home Shop by Room Discover Shop by Style Home Décor Furniture Kitchen & Dining Bed & Bath Garden & Outdoor Home Improvement Sports & Outdoors › Outdoor Recreation › Skates, Skateboards & Scooters › Scooters & Equipment › Scooters › Kick Scooters $$205.11205.11 () Includes selected options. Includes initial monthly payment and selected options. Details This item can be returned in its original condition for a full refund or replacement within 30 days of receipt. You may receive a partial or no refund on used, damaged or materially different returns. Sorry, there was a problem. There was an error retrieving your Registries. Please try again. Scooter HLR Kick Bars,Adult Wheels,Kick Foldable Kick with Adjustable Handle, Adults Shock Absorbing with Large Pu Wheel and Dual Brake, 220Lbs Load Price: $205.11 Get $50 off instantly: Pay $155.11 upon approval for the Amazon Rewards Visa Card. Enhance your purchase Brand Scooter Color Black Handlebar Type Foldable, Adjustable Number of Wheels 2 Wheel Material Polyurethane Frame Material Aluminum Item Weight 5500 Grams Age Range (Description) Adult

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You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...

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