looks like the idea could be refined a bit in the direction of this Military version with an airless tire…flat proof and comfortable commuter tire would be sick. Daver on April 15th, 2013 - 5:45am Luiggi on April 15th, 2013 - 7:21am
This looks dodgy. As per above – lateral stiffness? You have what looks like three contact points spot welded to the rim. I like my rims to stay somewhat connected to the hubs. These look like they have potential for rather catastrophic failure. Bob McNaughton on April 14th, 2013 - 11:06pm
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In the end, their method worked. Project e-tron now sits about 30mm lower than it did when it was delivered at the dealership. Effectively, every setting in the range is now 30mm lower, with the allroad setting being roughly equivalent to the previous comfort setting.
In addition to their solutions for wheelchairs and (Yes!) cars, SoftWheel has three versions for bikes. The premium wheelset is the disc brake Fluent HD setup designed for all around and even off-road riding, and available with either 27.5 or 29″ carbon rims. Its 3 shocks use an adjustable preload gas spring and hydraulic damping for 40mm of shock stroke. That isn’t the same as wheel travel due to the orientation of the shocks, so it’s not exactly clear how that translates to rim movement or really hoe it would compare to traditional suspension travel.
The big limitation that I can see, is that if there is any deflection when the rider gets on the bike, that means that the rider is essentially pedaling uphill all the time (Because he has to compress the springs as he moves forward). The other problem is that unless the springs are precisely calibrated to the riders weight this will really destroy the rolling efficiency of the bicycle. Malcolm Jacks May 23, 2020 03:09 AM
It's unclear at this point whether you'd lose any forward motion energy due to torque flex, but that can be tuned out of the system if required in any case. It's also unclear how much a pair of wheelchair-sized ASWs would cost at this point. We assume they're not cheap compared to a regular rim and tire setup. Here's some annoyingly infomercial-style video comparing regular wheelchair wheels to an ASW setup over curbs and grassy, uneven terrain.
The British engineer who really HAS reinvented the wheel: Loopwheels system abandons spokes for springs to give a smoother ride
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You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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Gary: I agree in principal - and I believe, as usual that forum members are all trying to say the same thing. Which is that 1) when we know our equipment and 2) the circumstance is favorable then there should be no problems. However, OP, an admitted newbie, did not tell us the year and model of his Thor (I may have missed it), nor the type of jack nor the degree of slope he could be considering - so, to err on the side of safety when advising someone that is NOT familiar with his equipment I think our answer should be a conservative and collective NO - don't go off the ground for the drive axle (brakes). As always, disagree or agree the forum group is constantly trying to help others to stay safe and enjoy this wonderful way of life (for some) and pastime (for others). The shocks will limit how much the front air bags can extend, whether or not it damages the front shocks is a different topic. As a general rule MH's with solid front axles state in the owners manual NOT to lift front wheels off the ground. I've never read of IFS MH's having such a statement. 2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA." My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) Thread Tools Search this Thread Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post On-off on off on off off off rear view camera Bahcml Newmar Owner's Forum 5 08-12-2019 10:44 PM Lifting wheels off ground when leveling Geneandea Just Conversation 9 11-10-2015 08:35 AM Can you over extend the air bags...by raising the front wheels off the ground StansCustoms Alpine Coach Owner's Forum 27 12-02-2010 02:05 PM Jacks raise wheels off ground, good or not? jab862 Fleetwood Owner's Forum 11 08-24-2009 06:40 AM lifting front tires off the ground with leveling jacks George Cayer MH-General Discussions & Problems 14 02-09-2005 06:53 PM Contact Us - Home - Archive - RVLife - Community Rules - Terms of Service - Privacy - Accessibility - Top Home Discovery Queue Wishlist Points Shop News Stats © Valve Corporation. All rights reserved. All trademarks are property of their respective owners in the US and other countries. #footer_privacy_policy | #footer_legal | #footer_ssa | #footer_refunds All Discussions Screenshots Artwork Broadcasts Videos Workshop News Guides Reviews All Discussions Screenshots Artwork Broadcasts Videos Workshop News Guides Reviews Space Engineers > General Discussions > Topic Details I spent a few hours last night working on this, but so far I can only get wheels to roll if they're attached to a suspension system. Am I missing something here? That seems like a pretty big failing, as there are plenty of reasons to need wheels in a fixed position.
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For me, base on this design, as long as you can maintain the hub to be: ground to hub distance would always be greater than the hub to the horizontal distance (radius) to the rim. then you should be fine.
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