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A loopwheel doesn’t have the same rigidity and stiffness that’s necessary in a spoked wheel.
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Simply put, the suspension system connects the vehicle to its wheels. In doing so, it takes responsibility for two main functions: Providing a comfortable ride for the driver and passengers by smoothing out the bumps and other imperfections in the road. Keeping the wheels on the ground as much as possible to provide traction.
Air Suspension Wheels: tread can either be fitted as sections of road-grooved rubber, or as bolt-on blocks for offroad use like this View gallery - 9 images
The arm may be broadened into a V shape with two pivots, either side by side or with the inner pivot slightly behind the front one - a semi-trailing arm. Trailing arms are usually found at the rear only. A trailing-arm suspension on a rear-wheel-drive car. The arm is attached to the rear wheel hub and broadens into a V whose two arms extend forward to pivot on the frame. The differential is fixed to the frame and the drive shafts have universal joints.
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agreed..but if money is an issue, I'd grab the $100 set of springs first then get the wheels. from experience in my trans am, springs/shocks/struts/whatever made a HUGE HUGE HUGE difference. I put vette wheels on and I just got wider tires which was sweet but i noticed a BIGGER difference from springs/shocks Well, my budget only allows for one at a time, and i'm just worried if I get springs ill have to just take guesses on wheel/tire sizes. I'm very unfamiliar with this kinda stuff as it is my first go. From what I am gathering the springs i'm planning on getting lower 1.5 - 1.75 im guessing the 1.75 is after they kinda break in over time. Not sure. However, the issue is knowing what tires to go with. If I have to chose 1.5 or 1.75 which is a better option? Keep in mind i'm most likely getting 15X7wheels, seems common enough and im not big on bigger size wheels, hell, i'm rocking 13's at the moment, steelies.. but 13's either way Also, I am not the fan of the "slammed" scene. I am more so into the flush look. Deleted wheel gap but not so over the top that negative camber makes my wheels look broken So from this information hopefully I can get some guidance with a tire size for 15X7 or maybe a slightly different recommendation based on the ride height adjustment soon to come. I also may consider 16's but 15's prefered. lets B-serious here tho, suspension first or else you'll be at stock hight or bounching around on these ebay special "coils", don't cheap out on tires like I see soooo many ppl do. lets B-serious here tho, suspension first or else you'll be at stock hight or bounching around on these ebay special "coils", don't cheap out on tires like I see soooo many ppl do.
Note: when sorting by date, 'descending order' will show the newest results first. Contains unread posts Contains no unread posts Hot thread with unread posts Hot thread with no unread posts Thread is closed You have posted in this thread You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On [VIDEO] code is On HTML code is Off -- Mirage Forum Desktop Style (full-featured) -- Mirage Forum Mobile Style Contact Us MirageForum.com - Mitsubishi Mirage / Space Star / Attrage / Dodge Attitude Forum and Owners Club Archive Top Threads Google Threads Posts Advanced View First Unread Thread Tools Search this Thread Log In | Register By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community > AcuraZine TL/TLX Community > Second Generation TL (1999-2003) > 2G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. i have already bought my rims, i havent put them on yet, should change my suspension first to like the look when its stock, or should i put my rims and change my suspension accordingly Reply Like how much you should lower the car depends on the rims. post some pics of the rims first. also depends on how much you drive in the snow, which i assume you do quite a bit living in canada. maybe some other members have some first hand experience of driving in the snow with a lowered car? I'd change suspension first, then wheels.... but to each their own... ultimately it's up to you. you should always drop first... then buy the rims to fit accordingly... also, putting rims on a stock height car (i know somebody will be butt hurt over this) yeah dont make the same mistake i did... i totally regret getting rims 1st =/ ok .. but if i change my suspension accordingly to my 16 inch stock rims, then put on 19'zz i think it depends on what your unique situation is. if there are rims you really like, buy them and work around it. plus, if your facing winter every year, you do not want to be dropped too much, you'll be sliding all over since you will have a lower center of gravity and have more of a grip demand on your tires. if you drop it three inches, now you need to stick with a really high offset, so that will limit your wheel choices. i think it works the same way no matter what you do-suspension first will limit your wheel options...wheels first will limit your suspension options. do you want to be scraping low with small wheels, or keep it practical with bigger wheels, it's your choice!! in my situation, i really wanted a certain wheel which happened to have a low offset, so i can't lower it too much. i am also up against winter in new england, and shitty roads. so i knew i wasn't lowering too much, i just want to close the wheel gap. so i got the wheels i wanted, which are 19x8 +40 w/ 235/35 tires, learned i have about 2" in the rear and 3" up front to work with, and from there purchased the eibach pro-system-plus which will give me exactly what i'm looking for...improved handling, very little gap in the wheel well, and a lower than stock stance....done & done!! buddy thanks a million, i think u just answered my question, i have the same width rims and tires. i was wondering how much room i might have in order to figure the suspension.
Spring loaded wheels Wheel Material:Iron core,PU wheels Size:5" x 50mm ; 6" x 50mm ; 8” x 50mm Loading Capacity:280kg ~ 350kg Bearing Type:Dual Ball Bearing
Available Mopar® accessories, like the bed-mounted spare tire carrier and RamBar, are designed to tailor TRX to your individual style.
'I've now been working on making it a product for 4 years, and we've made 40 wheels and 200 springs to get it right.
Hi we are new to a air ride equipped motorhome and are wandering if it is ok to lift the wheels off the ground with the Jack's when leveling on those unlevel sites, the chassis is a Freightliner XC and it seems like the air bags are really stretched if the wheells and everything are pulling down on them in this situation ... We just do not want any damage to the system. Your input would be appreciated thanks The weight of the axle pulls down on the air bags but the weight of the front axle assembly is supported by the length of the shocks. When the shocks become fully extended, air bags, leaf or coil springs, that's when the front axle assembly quits moving down. I'm with everyone that doesn't like the looks of wheels in the air, but it doesn't hurt anything and I have done it. Think about this: The only way your motorcoach can roll away is if it's on the wheels. If it's up on the jacks, it can't roll. A good backhoe operator will hike the rear tires (where the brakes are) up in the air to get it up on the hydraulics where it is solid and stable, before operating. Sometimes they raise the front tires up with the bucket. Ever seen a mobile construction crane? First thing they do is raise all the tires up off the ground to get the unit level and stable before operating. I'm not saying to lift your coach that way, but it's not the big deal that some people try to make it sound like. On my Freightliner with the stiff rear end and V-Ride, if I lift one side a couple inches, the duals will come off the ground. Not a big deal because the jack won't roll.
The current version is constructed from carbon composite strips developed in conjunction with an archery bow manufacturer.
The spring system between the hub and the rim of the wheel cushions the user from bumps and potholes in the road. The springs absorb road noise, reducing vibration through the frame and into the rider’s arms and body. High-pressure or puncture-resistant tyres can be used.
Design concern: Compressing the suspension changes the center of the wheel. When the wheel is also rolling this means there needs to be a ‘handoff’ between the three struts. The result will be the translation of energy in to compressing the next strut which will slow the wheel. Torquemada on May 21st, 2016 - 9:39am
These air shocks are tuneable to give you whatever level of tire deflection you choose, from super-firm to softer and squishier than a regular deflated tire can handle. Likewise, you can design in whatever degree of lateral flex suits your application, and even whatever level of torque flex you'd like, which allows the wheel to flex a little on the axle before it turns. This allows it to act as a soft torque coupler and gives a touch more traction in very difficult circumstances before the wheel spins, as well as slightly isolating the drive train from damaging torque forces in the rough stuff.
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