For wheelchairs and bicycles, adding SoftWheel suspension is all about increasing energy efficiency and making the ride much more comfortable. For the car and plane markets, the system will be able to save manufacturers a lot of money, Barel predicts. “The bigger the vehicle, the more suspension you need, and both cars and planes have elaborate suspension systems,” said Barel. “In order to make up for the energy expended on the suspension, engines have to be made to work harder, using more fuel and resources. With our sensor-based technology and the suspension system built into the wheels, you can save a lot of fuel.”
One designer wants to increase shock absorption in mountain bikes by replacing standard spokes with shock-absorbing coils. Triple the shocks, triple the fun!
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Shock proof casters Material: PP wheel bonded to elastic rubber Size:100mm x 32mm ; 125mm x 35mm Load:110kg,150kg Bearing: Roller Bearing Purpose:Shock resistant casters,Shock proof casters,Industry caster wheels,trolley casters
36cm x 41cm (14″x16″)41cm x 41cm (16″x16″)43cm x 41cm (17″x16″)46cm 41cm (18″x16″)46cm x 46cm (18″x18″)
The only other way to get wheels to turn is either roll them freely unbound to anything, or attach them to a rotor. You can adjust the suspension settings to make them ridged, and you can use vertically oriented suspensions to prevent side wobble as if it was on rails.
As far as treads go, the sky's the limit. Treads bolt directly onto the outer rim piece by piece, and there are a bunch of options to choose from, including a range of pre-molded road retread options by companies such as Michelin that bolt on in sections, or a plethora of heavy-duty industrial options that use polyurethane, urethane or steel pieces in a range of different configurations for serious off-road grab.
When I first saw the notice about this company and its products, I thought: who can resist such things? Many of the bicyclists that I know, want to share the joy of their hobby/obsession, sometimes by wearing t-shirts or jerseys with logos on them. Now, they can do that with vinyl decals that they can apply in so many places! So, I got in touch with the company to find out more about their products.
The Loopwheel is a different beast. When you have spent your whole life with rigid spoked wheels, they may seem strange to you at first. But we believe you’ll soon love the differences of the Loopwheel. Loopwheels gives you a smoother ride wherever you goAbsorbs vibration, bumps and shocksReduces wheelchair vibrations by up to 70%Softens the impact of landing from kerbs & other dropsHelps you go more places - allowing you to go faster and further
Have you owned this car from day 1? because that's definitely not sitting at the stock height. lol.
Each time the wheel revolves, you’re compressing “suspension”. This means that precious rider energy is being wasted, constantly. It’s kind of like the drag you get from soft, 5″ fat tires.
I used to think that URT suspension and suspended seatposts were the worst ways to implement suspension on a bicycle. gringo on April 15th, 2013 - 3:10am
I was happy with my purchase until this point. The bike looks nice and handled great. The only issue I noticed before this was that the left gear (I’m no bike expert, sorry if if that’s not the correct term) sort of made a weird noise when switching between one of the three settings (the chain sort of took a while to set correctly). The right gear worked flawlessly.
Loopwheels are more comfortable than standard wheelchair wheels: they absorb tiring vibration, as well as bumps and shocks. They’re strong and durable. Loopwheels are optimised for adults. If you weigh less than 50kg, you may not feel as much benefit from the loopwheels suspension as some one heavier.
Heavy duty spring loaded casters Wheel Material:Iron core,PU wheels Size:5" x 50mm ; 6" x 50mm ; 8” x 50mm Loading Capacity:280kg ~ 350kg Bearing Type:Dual Ball Bearing
Fittings, unless noted, are made from hot-rolled, pickled and oiled steel plates, bar, strip or coil, and conform to one or more of the following specifications: ASTM specifications A575, A576, A635, A1011 SS GR 33, A1011 HSLAS GR 45 or A36. All fittings meet or exceed physical properties of ASTM A1011 GR 33. The pickling of the steel produces a smooth surface free from scale. Many fittings are also available in stainless steel, aluminum and fiberglass. Consult factory for ordering information. Green Powder Coat (GR), conforming to commercial standards for Powder Coating Electro-galvanized (EG), conforming to ASTM B633 Type III SC1 Hot-dipped galvanized (HG), conforming to ASTM A123 or A153 Plain (PL) Unistrut Defender (DF), conforming to ASTM A1059 or A1046
Emerging GearFrom next-gen tech to ingenious innovation, our weekly peek at emerging products examines the sometimes cutting-edge, sometimes quirky world of gear design. Spoke Shocks: Radical MTB Suspension Concept
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...