Large springs give the Loopwheels built in suspension44 year-old Nottingham inventor says it makes riding on a bumpy road 'feel like velvet'Set to go on sale in September for £600 and will fit existing bikes e-mail
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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#5 Best Selling product in Diecast & Toy Vehicle TracksHot Wheels Launcher Loop Builder Track Set 3 Pcs 72 inch Moreracing
“Why would you want to lower it?” an unnamed Audi product planner asked when I’d shared my plans for the e-tron with him. “It’ll look like an Avant.”
A pair of 24″ or 25″ diameter shock-absorbing wheels. Carbon loops with reflective logos. Black anodised aluminium hub with high-quality bearings. Supplied fitted with black aluminium push rims, offset at either 19mm (wide) or 11mm (narrow) from the rim. Or for a more ergonomic experience upgrade to Gekko, Curve or Curve Tetra-Grip hand rims.
Near the end of the video it shows the bike on the "rolling road" test bed, the rim is moving laterally, not good in most bike applications. wle April 18, 2013 05:17 PM
SoftWheel also claims that this movement measurably decrease the energy lost from suspension movement. Their simulated track testing equated these gains to 16.4% extra energy that was not lost in a traditional suspension system. That of course means saving energy for the rider, and results in faster rolling. We’ve seen conceptually similar solutions like the carbon leaf Loop Wheels without damping, and even a smaller amount of suspension built into Gokiso’s hubs, but these Fluent wheels are certainly more tech-heavy.
Seems like a lot of the aftermarket wheels are on lowered Supras, anybody here running aftermarket wheels with stock suspension? Unfortunately with my driveway and roads, lowering may not be an option due to the possibility of scraping. I feel others may be in the same boat so this may be a helpful thread. Please share photos and specs of your aftermarket wheels/tires with stock suspension! First Name Sam Joined May 4, 2020 Messages 167 Reaction score 158 Location Houston Car(s) 2021 A91, 2008 S2000 CR, tow pigs First Name Dan Joined Oct 5, 2020 Messages 64 Reaction score 107 Location OH, US Car(s) '21 Supra 3.0 premium Gram Lights 57CR in gloss black: 19x9.5 +25, 19x10.5 +35 stock tires, stock suspension. Doubt I'll ever change it, but if I do, it'll be a minimal drop because I'm not getting any younger First Name Kyle Joined Jun 22, 2020 Messages 243 Reaction score 123 Location CA Car(s) 2020 A90 GR Supra, 1996 NA Miata, 2014 Camry SE but none the less, here is my contribution. still trying to figure out my fitment tho.. i dont think im going to lower my car (due to my driveway, which i already scrape on, and my daily drives) theyre ESR SR01 19x9.5 +22 front and 19x10.5 +22 on rears. I had to run a 12mm spacer in front to clear the caliper (which i thought it was going to clear, but sadly was wong) which made my rear fitment a bit weak compared to the front. so i had to compensate with a little 5mm spacer on the rear (still not sure whether to run a 5mm or 10mm spacer on the rear, i feel like 10mm would be really pushing it and will rub badly.) First Name Steve Joined Nov 21, 2020 Messages 593 Reaction score 574 Location Beaufort South Carolina Car(s) 2021 a91 edition Supra 2016 Lexus rc f BMW 435I imo Wheels should not poke out from the fenders...makes the car look like a 4 wheel drive...but each his own If so why not change the barrels for a more flush fit? Or were you going for a poke look? First Name Kyle Joined Jun 22, 2020 Messages 243 Reaction score 123 Location CA Car(s) 2020 A90 GR Supra, 1996 NA Miata, 2014 Camry SE If so why not change the barrels for a more flush fit? Or were you going for a poke look? i was going for a more "flush" look and its the only offset they offered. I thought i was going to clear upfront, and worried more with the rear. but it turned out the other way around.. and since the front poked out, i was trying to compensate on the rears. but i dont mind "a little" poke just not too much. oh well at least it looks decent
Much better to start with the wheelchair and bicycle markets, which are easier to break into. “Most of the world’s wheelchairs are used in hospitals, but there is a large premium market for people who want to live active lives but are restricted to wheelchairs by their disabilities. These people want to be as mobile and self-reliant as possible, and our technology makes this possible,” said Barel.
We have made the difficult decision to postpone the 2021 Recumbent Cycle-Con. With the current surge in Covid cases, and so many unknowns about what may happen in the next two months, postponing seems like the most responsible thing to do at this point in time.
Stand back. A performance-tuned dual exhaust system uses two resonance-free pipes to emit an enthralling growl from the massive 5-inch matte-black exhaust tips.
The Loopwheel works using three heavy duty springs instead of spokes. When the rider hits a bump, the springs compress to give a smooth ride
Kerbs are less of an obstacle with Loopwheels. Loopwheels reduce jolting, soften the impact of landing, and so can help manage discomfort.
Have you owned this car from day 1? because that's definitely not sitting at the stock height. lol.
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Loopwheels launched their journey into production off the back of two highly successful Kickstarter campaigns in 2013 & 2015 where the response from the community was astounding. The brand has since expanded worldwide and now distributes products to over 20 countries.