You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
Put three of these on your trike, then write up your evaluation for the TA readers.
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When driven wheels are independently suspended, the differential is fixed to the frame and drives the wheels by jointed drive shafts.
The revolutionary Loopwheels have been specially designed to help wheelchair users get around more easily and with more comfort. The shock absorbing springs can give you extra power to get up kerbs and reduce jolting as you come down - for a smoother ride wherever you go.
[Hot Item] Stainless steel spring loaded casters wheels, SA68SP-3''/4''/5'', Caster Wheels, China, Factory, Suppliers, Manufacturers
When you provide the correct make, model (and version if applicable), and year information about the vehicle we do verify bolt pattern, TPMS sensors and lug nuts (these items we guarantee fitment).
Big wheels and low profile tires make any vehicle look tough. For years, the aftermarket has provided wheels in the most gargantuan sizes possible, wrapping them in tires with sidewalls as thin as an o-ring. As beltlines rise, greenhouses shrink, and wheel arches become more pronounced, manufacturers are routinely shoeing their cars — even relatively sedate family sedans — with wheels 19 and even 20 inches in diameter. They look great, but their durability and expense is questionable, at best. Not long ago — well into the 2000s — most daily driver sedans came with something along the lines of a 205/60R15 tire (See this diagram to explain the numbers). Tires in these sizes typically offer a good compromise between road-holding and ride, providing a nice, fat contact patch with the road, yet allowing some flexibility in the sidewall to soak up pavement irregularities.
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Reinventing the wheel: The Loopwheels use large springs instead of spokes to give the bike wheels built in suspension
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Cohen now works as Softwheel’s product specialist, testing the Acrobat prototype as well as providing advice and guidance.
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As a full time wheelchair user, I cast a very skeptical eye at said "annoyingly infomercial-style video". About the only places I have trouble are in soft gravel, sandy beaches, and deep snow. Certainly not gentle curbs and flat lawns.