In deep sand and mud conditions, TRX uses a 45/55 initial torque split and calibrates both throttle management and torque distribution to mitigate wheel slip and improve traction.
Note: when sorting by date, 'descending order' will show the newest results first. Contains unread posts Contains no unread posts Hot thread with unread posts Hot thread with no unread posts Thread is closed You have posted in this thread You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On [VIDEO] code is On HTML code is Off -- Mirage Forum Desktop Style (full-featured) -- Mirage Forum Mobile Style Contact Us MirageForum.com - Mitsubishi Mirage / Space Star / Attrage / Dodge Attitude Forum and Owners Club Archive Top Threads Google Threads Posts Advanced View First Unread Thread Tools Search this Thread Log In | Register By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community > AcuraZine TL/TLX Community > Second Generation TL (1999-2003) > 2G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. i have already bought my rims, i havent put them on yet, should change my suspension first to like the look when its stock, or should i put my rims and change my suspension accordingly Reply Like how much you should lower the car depends on the rims. post some pics of the rims first. also depends on how much you drive in the snow, which i assume you do quite a bit living in canada. maybe some other members have some first hand experience of driving in the snow with a lowered car? I'd change suspension first, then wheels.... but to each their own... ultimately it's up to you. you should always drop first... then buy the rims to fit accordingly... also, putting rims on a stock height car (i know somebody will be butt hurt over this) yeah dont make the same mistake i did... i totally regret getting rims 1st =/ ok .. but if i change my suspension accordingly to my 16 inch stock rims, then put on 19'zz i think it depends on what your unique situation is. if there are rims you really like, buy them and work around it. plus, if your facing winter every year, you do not want to be dropped too much, you'll be sliding all over since you will have a lower center of gravity and have more of a grip demand on your tires. if you drop it three inches, now you need to stick with a really high offset, so that will limit your wheel choices. i think it works the same way no matter what you do-suspension first will limit your wheel options...wheels first will limit your suspension options. do you want to be scraping low with small wheels, or keep it practical with bigger wheels, it's your choice!! in my situation, i really wanted a certain wheel which happened to have a low offset, so i can't lower it too much. i am also up against winter in new england, and shitty roads. so i knew i wasn't lowering too much, i just want to close the wheel gap. so i got the wheels i wanted, which are 19x8 +40 w/ 235/35 tires, learned i have about 2" in the rear and 3" up front to work with, and from there purchased the eibach pro-system-plus which will give me exactly what i'm looking for...improved handling, very little gap in the wheel well, and a lower than stock stance....done & done!! buddy thanks a million, i think u just answered my question, i have the same width rims and tires. i was wondering how much room i might have in order to figure the suspension.
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Let’s put as much weight in the wheels as we can! I would just love to have to accelerate all of that weight over and over again in stop-and-go city traffic. Woof! Talk about energy savings! Cheese on May 20th, 2016 - 9:53am Rapha on May 20th, 2016 - 10:03am José Galdino da Silva on May 26th, 2021 - 6:17pm
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4: Up hill- this is where i think you may encounter difficulty. since its a climb. assume that you follow case 1, then you should be at least fine here. you have to focus on the ground distance to hub must always be greater than radius of wheel parallel to inclination of climb. (because imagine case 1, if your hub is no longer at the center, you will be lifting your self. in an inclined position. more difficult than lifting in a plane.
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Isn’t this criticism true of the vast majority of front suspension systems on the market though? Other than a few crazy linkage equipped forks that never really caught on, compression of a suspension fork will steepen the head angle and shorten the wheelbase too. dorkdisk on May 20th, 2016 - 2:25pm
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Secondly, if you are involved in an accident where your front wheels or suspension are damaged, your entire steering and suspension systems should be checked for damage. Additionally, you should get your systems inspected if you notice any difference in your suspension or steering after any accident.
Hojun Lee’s design won an award at the international design competition, K-Design. Lee currently attends the Seoul National University of Science and Technology in South Korea.
Citation: Triche, E., Beno, J., Tims, H., Worthington, M. et al., "Shock Loading Experiments and Requirements for Electric Wheel Motors on Military Vehicles," SAE Technical Paper 2005-01-0278, 2005, https://doi.org/10.4271/2005-01-0278.
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@ Bob Stuart: The built-in air cylinders avoid the bouncing. The very first design in 2010 was actually with springs and, indeed too bouncy. The cylinders have a non linear suspension (exponential) that have a great dampening effect.
Studies have shown that wheelchair users are exposed to levels of vibration that are considered unsafe and that this can affect health and life quality.
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Loving this well made Schwinn! Have many miles of very hard riding on it now and it is holding up well. Zero issues and still functioning perfectly. There is a slight amount of seepage at the front forks but that is normal. I have just about worn out the tires but that is after a lot of miles, most of which were ridden on rough rocky roads with zero flats. Overall this bike is a winner. Well worth the current price.
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Surprised at the baseless negativity this morning. Wait, no, I’m not. Maybe it’s not the simplest suspension solution, but a cool alternative when everything else is homogenizing. bazookasean on May 20th, 2016 - 9:48am
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buddy thanks a million, i think u just answered my question, i have the same width rims and tires. i was wondering how much room i might have in order to figure the suspension.
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That was a fantastic read. Thanks for sharing, I have already made a list of things I want to do with my car, granted not an interior list nor a 100% complete list, but as far as budget and small things (considering its just gonna be a mild modded DD) as the thread you linked calls it but I still got something out of it. Thanks again. Eventually i'm going to do a B-Swap but suspension work is a no brainer to get out of the way, atleast in my opinion OK..........so why are you asking us what should you do first if its a no brainer to you? Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. A good riding spring lowers the car about 1-2" maximum. Some suggestions would be eibach pro kits, h&r sports, or Tein S techs with koni STRT shocks. They'll work fine with 15x7 +40 or so. I'd use 205/50/15's. But you can also use the stock 195/55/15. If you buy the wheels/tires first, the car will look funny until you lower it.
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There are two basic types of vehicle suspensions: independent and solid axel. The main difference between these two is that both right and left wheels attached to the same beam i.e. solid axle, while independent suspensions make provision for one wheel to go up or down without affecting the other wheel.
A leading arm , used only at the front, is the opposite of a trailing arm, with the wheel in front of the pivot.
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I sent this bike back, the customer service from both amazon and schwinn, were impeccable, so much so, that I'm going to order another one, and hope it's not defective. My fingers are crossed, and I'll post again when the next one comes. maybe a bit expensive but good simple bike. I ordered 2 and for one of them the front wheel was really untrue, I had to replace it (Amazon was amazing with this).
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Double wishbones are used mostly at the front. There are two wishbones, one above the other, to keep the wheel upright as it rises and falls.
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