What should I do if I have vibration, a warranty concern, or other issue with my products?
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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Spotted at the Bespoked, UK’s handmade bicycle show, Loop Wheels should be getting things Kickstarter’d this week for their carbon fiber looped bike wheels. Details are pretty scant, but the obvious is the composite looped spokes that create three sets of springs between the hub and wheel.
item 7 Hot Wheels - New - HT Loop Track - US Stock - Free Shipping 7 -Hot Wheels - New - HT Loop Track - US Stock - Free Shipping
This is just something i thought of the instant i saw these, they do look fun though but if indeed they do feel like your “going up hill” all the time they’d have to be VERY fun to be worth the extra effort. I guess for crazy obstacles??
"I am on my second set of Loopwheels. I bought the first set of regular ones for my first active chair and immediately fell in love with them. I really struggle with back pain and Loopwheels..."
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The Loopwheels will go on sale in September for £600, and their inventor claims they can make riding on a bumpy road 'like riding on velvet' 44 year old Nottingham mechanical engineer Sam Pearce told MailOnline he came up with idea while watching a mother try and push a child in a buggy up a kerb.
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The Loopwheels team were looking for a digital agency to help build awareness of the enormous health and comfort benefits that their products offer to wheelchair users across the globe. They were also looking for a partner to help them leverage digital channels to grow sales on the Loopwheels ecommerce store.
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With Fat Tires And A Full Suspension, This Folding E-Bike Is Perfect For Off-Road Riding
VANHAWKS VALOUR CARBON FIBER BICYCLE INCLUDES SECURITY SENSORS AND PERFORMANCE TRACKING
The Unistrut P2751N 4-Wheel Loop Trolley with Nylon Wheels is designed to have an easy attachment point to suspend and move equipment overhead. Clevis Material: 12g. Design Load: 20 lbs. Wheel bearings are stainless steel and should not be lubricated. More Information SKU P2751N-EG EAN 0786364275123 Lead time 14 14 Pack Size Each UOM EA UPC 786364275123 Brand Unistrut Finish Electro-Galvanized
The revolutionary Loopwheels have been specially designed to help wheelchair users get around more easily and with more comfort. The shock absorbing springs can give you extra power to get up kerbs and reduce jolting as you come down - for a smoother ride wherever you go.
In fact, this varied terrain is one of the factors contributing to wheelchair discomfort and inefficiency. A wheel designed for the smooth floor inside a house or a public building is completely inappropriate for traveling on a rocky field or bumpy road.
Found another, here's @DrRay81 on Advan GT 19x9.5 +22 and 19x10.5+32. Michelin PS4s 275/35/19 and 295/35/19: Joined Nov 18, 2019 Messages 2,080 Reaction score 1,888 Location GA Car(s) NA Found another, here's @DrRay81 on Advan GT 19x9.5 +22 and 19x10.5+32. Michelin PS4s 275/35/19 and 295/35/19: