Without these 178 people, you wouldn’t be able to buy loopwheels today. THANK YOU ALL!
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Loopwheels reduce the level of vibration—“road noise”—through the chair frame and up into the arms, wrists and shoulders.
The lowest-priced brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is applicable).
The new company has financial backing from the RAD BioMed Accelerator group and is in collaboration with the Ziv-Av Engineering group. They are initially designing these wheels for wheelchairs, city bicycles and aircraft landing gear but the company says the technology would be used for other wheeled vehicles.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
Rear Loopwheels are about twice as stiff as front installations, and wheels can be used both separately with a spoked wheel, or as a set, plus as the lone form of bike suspension, or in addition to suspension forks. At only around 0.7 pounds heavier than spoked equivalents, Loopwheels make for particularly appealing add-ons to folding bikes, most of which don't bother with suspension systems due to the weight and bulk they pile on.
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He started a company, Softwheel, in 2011. He found support in life sciences firm RAD BioMed Accelerator Group, based in Tel Aviv. With RAD's state-of-the-art facilities at his disposal, Wolf built a team of engineers and designers. Soon after, his product, the Acrobat, was born. The Acrobat is a shock-absorbing wheel invented by Gilad Wolf and his team at Softwheel.
If you don't mind...what are the full specs of your wheels/tires? I'm just wondering because I have the X model and I know the widths and everything will be slightly different and no staggering for me. I think your setup looks great considering no drop, but I don't know how it would compare to an X model with no staggering or spacers etc.
ONDA terms itself a recumbent stunt bike/trike that can also be used to commute to work. Commute to work? What am I, the imp from Game of Thrones? Cee Lo Green? I'm not willingly placing a 3-foot-high version of myself...
On the plus side, it's a really nice looking bike... very frustrated with it though....
Copyright 2021 • SouthwestMedical.com • All rights reserved • SouthwestMedical.com, LLC Home Info _About Me _Contact Blogs _Travel _Accommodation _Days Out _Theatre _Products This has definitely been a well requested blog. I was lucky enough to get to try the only pair of Loopwheel Urban's in the world at the moment before their release later this year. I certainly put them through their paces, taking them out in the city and off-road on sand, so, I wanted to share my thoughts with you! A Loopwheel is a wheel with integral suspension, designed to reduce vibration, increase performance and provide greater comfort. Giving you a smoother ride, they are more comfortable than standard wheels: the carbon springs absorb tiring vibration, as well as bumps and shocks. They’re designed for everyday use and are strong and durable. Loopwheels are not just a wheel, they’re a suspension system. Studies have shown that wheelchair users are exposed to levels of vibration that are considered unsafe and that this can affect health and life quality. This is a risk factor for all wheelchair users, increasing the amount of muscle fatigue and potentially damaging connecting nerves. For me, vibration causes a huge increase in pain which is why I was first interested in the product. Loopwheels solved this problem by using carbon composites to create an ‘in-wheel‘ spring that can absorb vibration, without the weight penalties of a suspension chair or the cost penalties of a full carbon frame. The Loopwheels reduce vibration by 68% at 7Hz, 52% at 10Hz and 76% at 13Hz. Overall Loopwheels significantly reduce the amount of harmful whole body vibrations a wheelchair user will experience, this is turn reduces pain and fatigue and therefore allows a wheelchair user to travel further. I signed up for the 'Try Before You Buy' Scheme for the classic Loopwheels. For £20, this allows you to have the loopwheels for 21 days. This fantastic scheme enables people to see whether the product would be right for them. My loopwheels were black and fitted with ease to my manual wheelchair. I was travelling a lot when I first got my loopwheels and I found them easy to store in the car or on the plane. You can get a specially made bag to put them in if you travel a lot which I like! One thing which a number of people contacted me about is the weight of the Loopwheels. They are 1.8kg without the push rim/tyre/axle. Looking at a leading competitor, X-Core, their wheels are 1.5kg without tyres. They aren't as lightweight as I would have liked and for me, I need to take the wheels off individually and use 2 hands to lift one (I am a weakling though!). You would have to make a decision about whether you could manage the weight of the wheels independently and also if you're willing to have that extra bit of weight in return for extra comfort; it's completely individual. Short and sweet, I love the look of the classic. Wherever I go, people ask about them and I always used them for my photoshoots. Having a 'pretty' chair gives me such a confidence boost so having wheels which reflect this is so special. I have very small front castors which absorb a lot of vibration on my wheelchair. Even with the Loopwheels on, my castors at the front were still an issue. For you to get the best out of this equipment, I would thoroughly recommend using it with something like a Tri-Ride or Freewheel. This elevates the small castors and allows the weight to go through the loopwheels, giving you the best possible result. I used them a lot in the dance studios and loved the glide on the solid floor. But, because I didn't have any add-on equipment to try, I don't feel like I felt the full potential of the Loopwheels outdoors, but I still felt a difference. At £872, with payment plans available, they are certainly an investment. Other wheelchair wheels on the market cost around £250 mark, so you are looking at an extra £600. With the new personal budget for wheelchairs just released, there could be some hope that equipment like this could be provided as 'top ups' if a good enough case was made, but in the meantime, you might have to save your pennies. Have one set of wheels for all occasions – from the streets to the park to the forest. Lighter; an everyday wheel that is light enough to lift easily with one hand. Deliver all-important comfort and pain relief whilst being efficient to push and roll. Wheels that look great, and look technical – and perform brilliantly. Different spring ratings dependant on speed and weight. At 1.36 they are lighter than one of their leading competitors, X-Core, who's wheels are 1.5kg without tyres. They were much easier to lift, meaning putting them in the car and attaching them to the chair was simple. I felt a significant difference from my 'classics'. Because they were so much lighter, I could self-propel for a significantly longer time which was fantastic. I also tried the wheels out on the sand whilst I was on holiday, and despite having no add on for my front wheels, they managed really well! The wheels are designed to tackle a multitude of surfaces and they certainly excelled in that. I also like the fact there are 3 different spring ratings. Because I'm so light, I didn't feel like I was getting the full spring potential in the classic sometime but on these I can opt for the soft so I can feel more benefit. All those positive reviews do come at a price and that is £1,800. It's difficult when equipment that could potentially benefit your quality of life is so out of your price range, honestly I know, but I also have got to know the company well now and know how much they've invested so this is priced for the quality of the product. I love Loopwheels because they genuinely want to help people live better. The brand is good, the people are good and the products are good. Personally, the Loopwheel Classics didn't have as much benefit to me as I'd hoped because I didn't have a piece of equipment to lift my front castors off the ground. If you want the full potential of them, as I've said before, I'd recommend giving them a go with a Tri-Ride, Freewheel or investing in some suspension front castors. However, the Urban for me was a game changer. I really felt the benefit from these wheels, especially with them being lighter and cannot wait for their official launch so I can get my hands on them! If you'd like to learn more about Loopwheels, try or order some, visit their website https://www.loopwheels.com I am an ambassador for Loopwheels, because of my love for the product, so the wheels discussed in these reviews were either #Gifted or PR trial. But, I certainly am honest with my review of them!
Bicycle wheels often follow a standard convention. They contain metal rods known as spokes that radiate from a center hub. The spokes provide strength in all directions as the force of the rider bears down on the wheel. The design of spoke wheels hasn't changed much in the past, but Chet Baigh has a new approach.
When the damper inside a MacPherson strut wears out, you can buy a replacement cartridge which — depending on type — may or may not include new parts for the strut itself.
A shock absorbing wheel has its limitations. For starters, special rims would have to pair with these spoke-shocks. Plus, the high cost of shock absorbers suggests this wheelset would be extremely expensive, and the weight of the wheel would, presumably, be much heavier than traditional wheels.