In 1990 I designed this wheel with suspension and damping incorporated.I am glad to see this on the market. In those years I had no luck finding some business to develop and sell it. cruzraylson on May 5th, 2019 - 9:19pm
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When the damper inside a MacPherson strut wears out, you can buy a replacement cartridge which — depending on type — may or may not include new parts for the strut itself.
Loopwheels are currently available in a 20-inch size for bikes and a larger size for wheelchairs. They are working on 26- and 29-inch wheels for bicycles. They are currently available as a retrofit for Dahon or Tern foldingbikes and have a 100mm front fork for the changeover. The wheels themselves cost $462 US while a Loopwheels folding bike will set you back $1,493.
Just purchased a 2nd Traxion for my wife; after she borrowed mine she had to have one. This one arrived in perfect condition via UPS. Had to fine tune the brakes and shifters but that is easy. The people here having pedal/crank problems are causing the problem themselves by installing them dry and severly over tightening them. Put a little grease on the threads and take them down to just beyond finger tight. They are threaded opposite of the crank rotation and will not back out, and if you ever need to replace them they'll come out easily without seizing or galling. Great bike for the money! 5.0 out of 5 stars MARCH 30, 2021 UPDATE, 2ND PURCHASE! By artillerybuff on February 26, 2019 The order stated 3 day shipping and it took 6 days, but more importantly FedEx delivered the box all tore up with bottom flaps wide open and the box of pedals lying on the ground outside of the main carton. The bike suffered several deep scratches that really bummed me out! I decided to live with it as I hate to send things back unless I have to. Other than that the bike is very nice at this price point and would have received 5 stars from me if it wasn't damaged, despite the slow arrival.
Also showing up for this jam packed webcast we have Honza with the recumbent news, Jason Dubin with his project to build and race velomobiles with New York City youth and then Ben Goodall owner of Trisled tells us about the newest update to the Rotovelo. With Recumbent Cycle-Con cancelled I’ve edited Chuck Coyne’s interview to reflect the history of the event, Mark Lovegrove from the UK talks about his two e-assist motor installations, Larry Varney reviews the AR3 tilting trike and Denny’s sports segment features John McWhae who just completed a record making ride across Alberta in spite of his battle with arthritis. 2021 Recumbent Cycle-Con Postponed Posted on July 31, 2021 by Larry Varney
Is this a real problem? Or rather, is it such a big deal? People using your driveway as a turnaround. Cars getting lost or going one street too far and pulling into 20' of your pavement to correct their mistake. Since...
Please subscribe to us on YouTube (https://goo.gl/CHOOgX) and Like us on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/laidbackbikereport/) if you haven’t already done so. Lot’s more info is always available at www.laidbackbikereport.com.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
Your rating * Rate… Perfect Good Average Not that bad Very poor Related products Straight Loop, Vertical Grip at 60″ w/ 10″ No Flat Wheels $286.95 /each Add to cart Single Pin Grip at 52″ w/ 10″ Pneumatic Wheels and Cast Stairclimber $277.82 /each Add to cart Straight Loop, Vertical Grip at 60″ w/ 10″ Pneumatic Wheels $281.13 /each Add to cart Single Pin Grip at 46″ w/ 10″ Pneumatic Wheels and Stairclimber $326.93 /each Add to cart FAQ’s 10th Year at Pepsi Fleet Summit Are B&P parts interchangeable with other competitor’s brands? I have a hand truck that needs repair. Who do I call? What is the warranty on your products? CAN I BUY DIRECT?
Simply put, the suspension system connects the vehicle to its wheels. In doing so, it takes responsibility for two main functions: Providing a comfortable ride for the driver and passengers by smoothing out the bumps and other imperfections in the road. Keeping the wheels on the ground as much as possible to provide traction.
Loopwheels are more comfortable than standard wheelchair wheels: they absorb tiring vibration, as well as bumps and shocks. They’re strong and durable. Loopwheels are optimised for adults. If you weigh less than 50kg, you may not feel as much benefit from the loopwheels suspension as some one heavier.
It looks like the hubs have internal drum brakes. They both have little black levers on the outside. And you can clearly see a cable running down to the rear hub.
Talking with Sam and Gemma it is clear that Loopwheels wont be stopping with just this one product, hints are dropped and you can see ideas formulating in their heads as they talk with you.
Surprised at the baseless negativity this morning. Wait, no, I’m not. Maybe it’s not the simplest suspension solution, but a cool alternative when everything else is homogenizing. bazookasean on May 20th, 2016 - 9:48am
On front wheels, the whole strut swivels to allow steering. Pivoted arms extend inward and forward to the frame in order to keep the wheel upright and resist accelerating and braking forces .
It’s an elaborate design and really shouldn’t warrant hate in itself, but it’s a questionable application for bicycles. This would be awesome in smaller city cars, perhaps. ChudTruMud on May 20th, 2016 - 7:48pm