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We also have tens of thousands of wheels you can filter using the year, make, model and suspension of your vehicle. Check both out and let your imagination take over.
That was a fantastic read. Thanks for sharing, I have already made a list of things I want to do with my car, granted not an interior list nor a 100% complete list, but as far as budget and small things (considering its just gonna be a mild modded DD) as the thread you linked calls it but I still got something out of it. Thanks again. Eventually i'm going to do a B-Swap but suspension work is a no brainer to get out of the way, atleast in my opinion OK..........so why are you asking us what should you do first if its a no brainer to you? Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. A good riding spring lowers the car about 1-2" maximum. Some suggestions would be eibach pro kits, h&r sports, or Tein S techs with koni STRT shocks. They'll work fine with 15x7 +40 or so. I'd use 205/50/15's. But you can also use the stock 195/55/15. If you buy the wheels/tires first, the car will look funny until you lower it.
A set of ASW wheels, on the other hand, will cost you more upfront but last something like 13 times longer – out to the service life of the truck itself. Your first set of six wheels in this case will run you about $1.705 million, but over 10 years you'll likely only need two tread replacements at around $55,000 a pop, giving you a 10-year budget of $1.815 million and a $845,000 saving.
Today, the Ford Taurus SEL — the top-of-the-line before you get into the high-performance SHO — comes standard with 18 inch wheels. Many buyers select the optional 19-inch wheels, though, which come with Goodyear Eagle RSA 255/45R19 tires. The alpha-numeric soup on the sidewall might not instantly make sense, but compared to what was previously available on the Taurus, that wheel and tire combination is massive.
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Man, every time I’m on my flat bar hipster fixie chariot I ask myself why don’t I have more suspension? mopedssuck on May 20th, 2016 - 9:35am Tom on May 20th, 2016 - 9:55am stiingya on May 21st, 2016 - 12:35am stiingya on May 21st, 2016 - 12:58am traildog on May 20th, 2016 - 9:44am
There are two basic types of vehicle suspensions: independent and solid axel. The main difference between these two is that both right and left wheels attached to the same beam i.e. solid axle, while independent suspensions make provision for one wheel to go up or down without affecting the other wheel.
But the negatives are pretty significant, especially in and around Boston, where our roads are rapidly deteriorating, and potholes are a regular occurrence.
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They’ve also developed a more bullet-proof wheelset with 25mm of shock travel called Fluent B designed for urban bike share programs. It includes a dynamo front and an internally geared rear hub. Lastly, the Fluent E is an e-bike version with 40mm of stroke and an integrated proprietary rear hub motor.
ONDA terms itself a recumbent stunt bike/trike that can also be used to commute to work. Commute to work? What am I, the imp from Game of Thrones? Cee Lo Green? I'm not willingly placing a 3-foot-high version of myself...
Loopwheels are currently available in a 20-inch size for bikes and a larger size for wheelchairs. They are working on 26- and 29-inch wheels for bicycles. They are currently available as a retrofit for Dahon or Tern foldingbikes and have a 100mm front fork for the changeover. The wheels themselves cost $462 US while a Loopwheels folding bike will set you back $1,493.
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Seems like a lot of the aftermarket wheels are on lowered Supras, anybody here running aftermarket wheels with stock suspension? Unfortunately with my driveway and roads, lowering may not be an option due to the possibility of scraping. I feel others may be in the same boat so this may be a helpful thread. Please share photos and specs of your aftermarket wheels/tires with stock suspension! First Name Sam Joined May 4, 2020 Messages 167 Reaction score 158 Location Houston Car(s) 2021 A91, 2008 S2000 CR, tow pigs First Name Dan Joined Oct 5, 2020 Messages 64 Reaction score 107 Location OH, US Car(s) '21 Supra 3.0 premium Gram Lights 57CR in gloss black: 19x9.5 +25, 19x10.5 +35 stock tires, stock suspension. Doubt I'll ever change it, but if I do, it'll be a minimal drop because I'm not getting any younger First Name Kyle Joined Jun 22, 2020 Messages 243 Reaction score 123 Location CA Car(s) 2020 A90 GR Supra, 1996 NA Miata, 2014 Camry SE but none the less, here is my contribution. still trying to figure out my fitment tho.. i dont think im going to lower my car (due to my driveway, which i already scrape on, and my daily drives) theyre ESR SR01 19x9.5 +22 front and 19x10.5 +22 on rears. I had to run a 12mm spacer in front to clear the caliper (which i thought it was going to clear, but sadly was wong) which made my rear fitment a bit weak compared to the front. so i had to compensate with a little 5mm spacer on the rear (still not sure whether to run a 5mm or 10mm spacer on the rear, i feel like 10mm would be really pushing it and will rub badly.) First Name Steve Joined Nov 21, 2020 Messages 593 Reaction score 574 Location Beaufort South Carolina Car(s) 2021 a91 edition Supra 2016 Lexus rc f BMW 435I imo Wheels should not poke out from the fenders...makes the car look like a 4 wheel drive...but each his own If so why not change the barrels for a more flush fit? Or were you going for a poke look? First Name Kyle Joined Jun 22, 2020 Messages 243 Reaction score 123 Location CA Car(s) 2020 A90 GR Supra, 1996 NA Miata, 2014 Camry SE If so why not change the barrels for a more flush fit? Or were you going for a poke look? i was going for a more "flush" look and its the only offset they offered. I thought i was going to clear upfront, and worried more with the rear. but it turned out the other way around.. and since the front poked out, i was trying to compensate on the rears. but i dont mind "a little" poke just not too much. oh well at least it looks decent