That first grant helped us to develop our first loopwheel for wheelchairs. Getting the support from Innovate UK was crucial to us. We should have applied for R&D support earlier, it would have helped us to get a lot further a lot faster.
@SandyEggoSi Locating Pin? Strut is slotted already and has cam bolts right? Or am I missing something? @SandyEggoSi Locating Pin? Strut is slotted already and has cam bolts right? Or am I missing something? Our cars don't come with OEM camber bolts on the lower strut mount. But Honda was nice enough to give us slots on the upper strut mount under the hood of the car in the engine bay. Here's a diagram:
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'We're at preproduction - we've made wheels, but we're now hoping to get funding for tooling so we can mass product them, and we are planning to spend the next two months getting production ready.'
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The Loopwheel system uses springs instead of spokes, giving the wheel built in suspension.
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It’s one thing to look at the video, but up close they really are a sight to behold – they literally challenge everything you think you know about a spoked bike wheel.
That was a fantastic read. Thanks for sharing, I have already made a list of things I want to do with my car, granted not an interior list nor a 100% complete list, but as far as budget and small things (considering its just gonna be a mild modded DD) as the thread you linked calls it but I still got something out of it. Thanks again. Eventually i'm going to do a B-Swap but suspension work is a no brainer to get out of the way, atleast in my opinion OK..........so why are you asking us what should you do first if its a no brainer to you? Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. A good riding spring lowers the car about 1-2" maximum. Some suggestions would be eibach pro kits, h&r sports, or Tein S techs with koni STRT shocks. They'll work fine with 15x7 +40 or so. I'd use 205/50/15's. But you can also use the stock 195/55/15. If you buy the wheels/tires first, the car will look funny until you lower it.
For me, base on this design, as long as you can maintain the hub to be: ground to hub distance would always be greater than the hub to the horizontal distance (radius) to the rim. then you should be fine.
Let us help you find aftermarket wheels and tires that fit your vehicle perfectly. Simply enter your Year, Make, Model and Trim and we'll show you wheels and tires that will take your car to a whole new level. Upgrading to aftermarket wheels is one of the biggest steps in the build process. Our fitment tool will find the recommended wheel specifications for your car and find the tire size to match! All wheel and tire packages come with free mounting, balancing and shipping to lower 48 states so they're ready to throw on as soon as they're delivered!
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OK, after pouring through much of the other thread, I felt I spent so much time looking at setups that weren't relevant to what I was looking to do...which is stay on stock suspension. So this thread is dedicated to Aftermarket wheels on stock suspension. *List wheel make and model with offset and width as well as tire make/model/size. *Try to take pics showing "poke." That means refrain from turning the front wheels for the pics. Keep 'em pointed straight and try to get some shots down the side of the car that will help others make a decision. *If you've rolled, pulled fenders and/or used the slotted strut mounts for more tire/fender clearance that is ok, just let us know when you post your setup.
Suspension blocks are the quickest way to provide both, in addition to suspension and turning capabilities, but don't necessarily meet all demands. A rotor can also be used, but has a much lower maximum speed (60rpm, regardless of wheel size) for propulsion purposes - however it can also have its braking torque set to 0 to make it a free-wheeling axle.
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However, this design pushes past the norms of mountain bike suspension — and design — and has us excited to see what could arise.