Today, the Ford Taurus SEL — the top-of-the-line before you get into the high-performance SHO — comes standard with 18 inch wheels. Many buyers select the optional 19-inch wheels, though, which come with Goodyear Eagle RSA 255/45R19 tires. The alpha-numeric soup on the sidewall might not instantly make sense, but compared to what was previously available on the Taurus, that wheel and tire combination is massive.
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The Trefecta DRT Electric Bike ($25K) continues to blur the lines between electric motorcycle and bike. This super e-bike features, a military spec foldable 20″ 7075 aluminium frame, that can carry up to 350 pounds. The 26″ Carbon Fiber Wheels are wrapped in off-road trail ride tires by Schwalbe. Making this quite not a motorcycle […]
buddy thanks a million, i think u just answered my question, i have the same width rims and tires. i was wondering how much room i might have in order to figure the suspension.
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All information contained herein applies to U.S. vehicles only. Do Not Sell My Personal Information Terms of Service Privacy Policy We use cookies to improve your experience on this site and show you personalized advertising. Remember Me? FAQ Social Groups Calendar Photo Albums FAQ Social Groups Calendar Mark Forums Read Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum > Toyota 4Runner Forum > 5th gen T4Rs > Total cost of suspension, wheels, and tires upgrade & installation Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes 03-15-2020, 09:27 PM #1 Hey all, I'm new to the world of 4Runners (just bought my first one a month ago!) and off-roading in general. I'm shopping around for prices on a suspension upgrade, new tires, and new wheels for my rig. I've been quoted $4k for a Bilstein 5100's all around with OME springs both front and rear and SPC Upper control arms. The $4k is for ALL parts + installation, and includes the wheels and tires. They are BFG KO2's and TRD Pro wheels. Is this reasonable? I'm completely new the world of mods and upgrades and don't want to get ripped off. For those who may suggest I try the work myself, I live in a small studio apartment with no garage or space for tools :/ Reply With Quote 623spartan View Public Profile Find More Posts by 623spartan 03-15-2020, 10:00 PM #2 So about $1,250 in labor - not horrible but I would shop around a little. Labor on this should be about 6-8 hours? Maybe can find someone local willing to work with you, teach you a few things for some pizza and brews? Make a buddy along the way! Edit - if you're lifting 2"/2.5" or less could probably drop the SPCs and save a few bucks Last edited by Sundy; 03-15-2020 at 10:49 PM. Reason: Added info Reply With Quote Sundy View Public Profile Find More Posts by Sundy 03-15-2020, 10:43 PM #3 ko2's are more like 1k. unless he puts on some P rated stock size ones. which seems silly. 2016 TE : Grocery Getter, 285/70R17 Cooper at3 XLT, Prinsu Rack, King Coilovers, DuroBumps, Wheelers T13 coils, King shocks, King hydro bumps, Total Chaos mounts, DirtKing Fabrication UCA, VIVID RACING Tune, URD Y pipe Reply With Quote honda250xtitan View Public Profile Find More Posts by honda250xtitan 03-15-2020, 10:47 PM #4
I find it difficult to credit the coach moving down the hill with 20,000 - 40,000 lbs of motorhome pressing the jack pads into the earth. That assumes the jacks are rated for the full coach weight and don't break under the load. My 36,000 lb coach had 4 x 16,000 lb jacks, so I wasn't too worried. Back in the day some coaches had poor frame rigidity, especially up front, so the front cap and windshield frame would often twist if the front wheels came off the ground. My '96 Southwind (F53 chassis) was like that and I avoided ever lifting the front to even barely touching cause the windshield would start to move. My 2002 W22 chassis coach didn't seem to have any problem with that but I was still careful. My 2004 DP was stable as a mountain no matter how much it was jacked. Spent many a summer at my brothers home in SW PA with wheels off the ground. He lives on a hill side and the 2012 Tour never had a problem.
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We also have tens of thousands of wheels you can filter using the year, make, model and suspension of your vehicle. Check both out and let your imagination take over.
"I am very pleased with my Loopwheels. They look good and they make the track smoother. I think I go faster with them...." The Ultimate Wheelchair Suspension Reduce vibrations by up to 70% with Loopwheels
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I put my year, make, and model into the website, and I purchased what came up, why doesn't it fit? While our website is a good tool for an estimate for what fits your vehicle each owner modifies their vehicle differently. Meaning you could have different modifications done to your vehicle that causes the wheels/tires not to fit while they could work on another person's vehicle who performed the necessary modifications to make the setup work. This is why we suggest using the gallery for a reference. You have to pay a restocking fee because we now need to pay individuals to return, clean up, and restock the item to our shelves to be resold. These are large items and take a lot of work to be put back into our inventory. Yes, while we can't guarantee that a product will never fail, as long as spacers are installed and measured for correctly they are generally safe. If your purchase does not fit, you can certainly return the product however, a return and restocking fee of 20% will apply. The product can also not be used/driven on in any way. We highly recommend a test fit once you get your new wheels, please bolt them up (carefully) and spin them on the vehicle before driving on them to ensure they fit correctly. Our customers are determined to push their vehicles to the limit while showing off their own unique style. Each customized vehicle has its own personality and we want to help our customers achieve any look they’re after to complete their dream vehicle. However, there are certain risks that come with stretched tires. Stretched tires give a distinct, minimal sidewall look that can help showcase your wheels and dial in perfect fitment. In minor stretch applications, there are minimal to no inherent risks. But, in extreme tire stretch applications, this can result in debeading or tearing of the tires sidewall. The more the tire is stretched, the more likely you may run into one of these issues. Stretching a tire onto a wider wheel may void the manufacturer's warranty depending on the brand and size of the tire. If your application is considered stretched, there will be a note listed during the checkout process before going to the cart for purchase.
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i will have pics shortly, havn't put everything on permanantly yet, waiting a couple more weeks til spring. i have the wheels & suspension sitting in my house staring at me everyday, it's painful. but if you open this link, you will see 19x8 +40 lowered 1.5", just for reference. and honestly, i'm afraid to post pics on this site with the way people pick things apart, but i probably will anyway-give me a few weeks!!
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A replacement pair of off road mountain bike 'fat' wheels to fit most everyday wheelchairs. This is an ideal wheel to fit on your wheelchair, making it easier to go over rougher terrain. W...
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If so, what possible use could the 1x1 wheels ever have other than on a rail, as they're too small in diameter to make any meaningful clearance for terrain use?
REINVENTING THE WHEEL FOR A SMOOTHER RIDE A vibration reducing wheel with integral suspension. Loopwheels minimise vibration, reduce fatigue and pain and give you a smoother ride - allowing you to travel further and longer. For greater comfort and independence Loopwheels are designed to help you push over uneven streets, cobbles, grass, rough tracks and gravel paths, with less effort. The composite springs give you extra power to get up or down curbs. Loopwheels replacement wheelchair wheels are more comfortable than standard wheels: they absorb tiring vibration, as well as bumps and shocks. They naturally adjust for uneven camber – the slope on the side of a road. We reinvented the wheel, so you can tackle any path ahead. Is Discontinued By Manufacturer : No Package Dimensions : 28 x 28 x 7 inches Date First Available : October 25, 2018 Manufacturer : Loopwheels ASIN : B07JNZRRKX Best Sellers Rank: #2,394,102 in Health & Household (See Top 100 in Health & Household) #423 in Wheelchair & Mobility Scooter Tires & Wheels
“First of all, it is symmetric to absorb shock in any direction," Rozanes told From the Grapevine. "Second, selective suspension means if you drive normally on flat surfaces, there’s no suspension unless encountering an obstacle."
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When taking on dunes, this off-road truck reduces shift times by 68%, sets its suspension on full damping and allows for moderate oversteer to impart maximum fun.
Why reinvent the wheel? Because sometimes it makes for a better bike. Loopwheels are a completely new type of bicycle wheel, designed with a unique built-in suspension that makes for a delightfully smooth ride. Instead of spokes, as on a traditional bicycle wheel, the Loopwheels have three loop-shaped springs that allow the wheel to absorb the vibrations and bumps most riders are accustomed to feeling.
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Leaf springs are likely to wear because they have several moving parts. They should be inspected at intervals specified by the car manufacturer, or at major service intervals - usually every 12,000 miles (20,000 km). Facebook @howacarworks Twitter @howacarworks YouTube @howacarworks
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Nina Paley follows with her experience buying and upgrading a used Calfee Stiletto.
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My background in wheel performance is its circular motion( which involves the circular of the wheel, and that the hub remains in the center of the wheel) if u are rolling with an oblong wheel, then u may actually exert more effort in lifting your self with the bike rather than rolling.
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The Loopwheels will go on sale in September for £600, and their inventor claims they can make riding on a bumpy road 'like riding on velvet' 44 year old Nottingham mechanical engineer Sam Pearce told MailOnline he came up with idea while watching a mother try and push a child in a buggy up a kerb.
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Set in the Nottinghamshire countryside, Loopwheels HQ is surrounded by rutted fields, forests and coarse roads – nigh-on the perfect environment to test out suspension wheels!
Swing axles may be at the front or rear. The system is like a beam axle cut in half and attached to pivots on the frame.
This illustration shows how the Loopwheel handles bumps compared to a conventional spoked wheel View gallery - 6 images
Note: when sorting by date, 'descending order' will show the newest results first. Contains unread posts Contains no unread posts Hot thread with unread posts Hot thread with no unread posts Thread is closed You have posted in this thread You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On [VIDEO] code is On HTML code is Off -- Mirage Forum Desktop Style (full-featured) -- Mirage Forum Mobile Style Contact Us MirageForum.com - Mitsubishi Mirage / Space Star / Attrage / Dodge Attitude Forum and Owners Club Archive Top Threads Google Threads Posts Advanced View First Unread Thread Tools Search this Thread Log In | Register By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community > AcuraZine TL/TLX Community > Second Generation TL (1999-2003) > 2G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. i have already bought my rims, i havent put them on yet, should change my suspension first to like the look when its stock, or should i put my rims and change my suspension accordingly Reply Like how much you should lower the car depends on the rims. post some pics of the rims first. also depends on how much you drive in the snow, which i assume you do quite a bit living in canada. maybe some other members have some first hand experience of driving in the snow with a lowered car? I'd change suspension first, then wheels.... but to each their own... ultimately it's up to you. you should always drop first... then buy the rims to fit accordingly... also, putting rims on a stock height car (i know somebody will be butt hurt over this) yeah dont make the same mistake i did... i totally regret getting rims 1st =/ ok .. but if i change my suspension accordingly to my 16 inch stock rims, then put on 19'zz i think it depends on what your unique situation is. if there are rims you really like, buy them and work around it. plus, if your facing winter every year, you do not want to be dropped too much, you'll be sliding all over since you will have a lower center of gravity and have more of a grip demand on your tires. if you drop it three inches, now you need to stick with a really high offset, so that will limit your wheel choices. i think it works the same way no matter what you do-suspension first will limit your wheel options...wheels first will limit your suspension options. do you want to be scraping low with small wheels, or keep it practical with bigger wheels, it's your choice!! in my situation, i really wanted a certain wheel which happened to have a low offset, so i can't lower it too much. i am also up against winter in new england, and shitty roads. so i knew i wasn't lowering too much, i just want to close the wheel gap. so i got the wheels i wanted, which are 19x8 +40 w/ 235/35 tires, learned i have about 2" in the rear and 3" up front to work with, and from there purchased the eibach pro-system-plus which will give me exactly what i'm looking for...improved handling, very little gap in the wheel well, and a lower than stock stance....done & done!! buddy thanks a million, i think u just answered my question, i have the same width rims and tires. i was wondering how much room i might have in order to figure the suspension.
The campaign will connect with consumers at multiple touchpoints combining elements of content marketing, search, social advertising and conversion rate optimisation. Joe Read About the author
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
Would you like to schedule an appointment for these problems or others? Visit our Contact Us page by following this link so you can call our closest store!
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Among the very few prominent recumbent groups around the world precious few can boast of the long history of racing and designing bents as can the British Human Power Club. We’ll chat with club officers Alan Goodman, Barney Harle and Chris Hamilton about their full racing seasons (including the World HPV Championships), member’s unusual HPV builds and the early group history with founding member Dave Larrington. Also Dave Ashenbrener returns with an update on his “Lost Recumbent” AR-3 tilting trike which he has now produced and is available to purchase. Honza, Doug and Nina are back with their segments as well. Midwest Trike Demo Sale – February 27! Posted on February 26, 2021 by Larry Varney
The arm may be broadened into a V shape with two pivots, either side by side or with the inner pivot slightly behind the front one - a semi-trailing arm. Trailing arms are usually found at the rear only. A trailing-arm suspension on a rear-wheel-drive car. The arm is attached to the rear wheel hub and broadens into a V whose two arms extend forward to pivot on the frame. The differential is fixed to the frame and the drive shafts have universal joints.
TRX is a performance truck and an off-road truck, designed to keep you in command of all 702 horses across ever-changing terrain.
The sale of Bacchetta Cycles was in the news since our last webcast. We have former CEO Mark Swanson and new owner Dana Lieberman with us for interviews. Along with the rest of the recumbent news is Honza Galla.
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Heavy duty spring loaded casters Wheel Material:Iron core,PU wheels Size:5" x 50mm ; 6" x 50mm ; 8” x 50mm Loading Capacity:280kg ~ 350kg Bearing Type:Dual Ball Bearing
Shop Wheelchair Wheels Accessories Try Before You Buy About Us About Us Our Brochure What Are Loopwheels? What is a Loopwheel How does it work? Engineering Loopwheels Guidance Our Customers Contact Us A vibration reducing wheel with integral suspension. Loopwheels minimise vibration, which can reduce fatigue and discomfort and give you a smoother ride.
Loopwheels come ready fitted with black aluminium push rims, included in the price. We also offer alternative upgrade options:
It's 10am and the door rings. I cannot get down the stairs to answer the door. I'm sore from a fall the day before and today, the st...
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
A replacement pair of off road mountain bike 'fat' wheels to fit most everyday wheelchairs. This is an ideal wheel to fit on your wheelchair, making it easier to go over rougher terrain. W...
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In the garage: Mazda 5, Dodge Neon George Kennedy is a senior writer for WheelsTV in Acton, which produces video reviews for Yahoo, MSN, and other auto websites. Select a month February 2014 January 2014 September 2013 August 2013 April 2013 February 2013 January 2013 November 2012 October 2012 September 2012 August 2012 July 2012
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3: Down hill- I think this would be the least of your problems. not to mention if you're fine with the previous scenarios. " a box can slide with free fall"
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Loopwheel springs are made from a carbon composite material, carefully developed and tested to give optimum compression and lateral stability as well as strength and durability. Specially-designed connectors attach the springs to the hub and rim. The three loops in each wheel work together as a self-correcting system. This spring system between the hub and the rim of the wheel provides suspension that constantly adjusts to uneven terrain – cushioning the rider from bumps and potholes in the road. In effect, the hub floats within the rim, adjusting constantly as shocks from an uneven road hit the rim of the wheel. The spring configuration allows the torque to be transferred smoothly between the hub and the rim.
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But after a few rocky encounters, he decided there had to be a better way to maneuver over rough terrain in a wheelchair. So he did what anyone with experience in mechanics would do – he made a new wheel.
When I first saw the notice about this company and its products, I thought: who can resist such things? Many of the bicyclists that I know, want to share the joy of their hobby/obsession, sometimes by wearing t-shirts or jerseys with logos on them. Now, they can do that with vinyl decals that they can apply in so many places! So, I got in touch with the company to find out more about their products.
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We opened in August of 1992 and for over 25 years we have been riding, selling, and servicing Vespa Scooters. We're 100% focused on being the most reliable and trustworthy Vespa Shop in America. We have over 300,000 Vespa parts and Vespa accessories in stock and carry only the highest quality available. You deserve a reliable source for all your Vespa needs and we strive to be your go-to shop. We don't just sell Vespa parts, we live and breathe Vespa. “Vespa. Everywhere.”
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PU wear-resistant flash wheel, high elasticity, non-slip, abrasion resistant, quiet and smooth, no damage to the floor, durable.
