Don't let your budget put your build on pause, monthly payments available with Affirm. WHEELS & TIRES IN STOCK Year 2022202120202019201820172016201520142013201220112010200920082007200620052004200320022001200019991998199719961995199419931992199119901989198819871986198519841983198219811980197919781977197619751974197319721971197019691968196719661965196419631962196119601959 Make Model Drive/Trim Square or Staggered Square Staggered SHOP WHEELS Year2022202120202019201820172016201520142013201220112010200920082007200620052004200320022001200019991998199719961995199419931992199119901989198819871986198519841983198219811980197919781977197619751974197319721971197019691968196719661965196419631962196119601959 Air SuspensionCoiloversLowering SpringsStockSuspensionLifted Get a completely new setup in one place. Check out our pre built wheel and tire packages and get free mounting, balancing, and shipping as well as over $200 in savings. Suspension Get low or tear up the track. Check out our massive selection of suspension products here. You'll find everything from lowering springs to coilovers and air suspension. Store The details matter. Whether you're looking for colored lug nuts, underglow, or just some bangin' apparel for the next meet, you'll find it all here.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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The new company has financial backing from the RAD BioMed Accelerator group and is in collaboration with the Ziv-Av Engineering group. They are initially designing these wheels for wheelchairs, city bicycles and aircraft landing gear but the company says the technology would be used for other wheeled vehicles.
We stock a range of other push rims, not all of which are listed here. If you’re not sure which to choose, please contact us as we’ll be happy to help.
Quicker shift times, a tightened suspension, a 30/70 torque split and sport-tuned stability control empower TRX with the optimal performance-truck setup on paved surfaces.
i’d like to see side by side freewheel tests for riders, i think they might be radically less efficient than regular wheels (more comfy maybe :). Ronnie on August 22nd, 2013 - 8:04am swapnil dighe on August 31st, 2018 - 12:29am COMMENT HERE: (For best results, log in through Wordpress or your social media account. Anonymous/fake email comments may be unapproved or deleted. ALL first-time commenter's posts are held for moderation. Check our Comment Policy for full details.) Cancel reply
"I have used my Loopwheels since they were first launched, I’ve tried them all, but NOTHING compares with these Loopwheels, after a month or so I had no more back pain, 75% less marks..."
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With every rotation the springs will bend and absorb a amount of energy. Normally this is called “damping”. Its pretty useful in some cases. But it’s pretty unusual to damp a rotation of wheels, because this will slow down the straight moving. For Bicycles (and all other vehicles) you should mount your springs in the direction where the impact is coming from plus a additional damper to stop the bouncing of the spring. David on April 14th, 2013 - 6:03pm Hmmmm on April 14th, 2013 - 6:31pm
It remains static on standard floors or smooth pavements but shifts to an active response mode when the wheel encounters obstacles. The wheel’s hub symmetrically expands or shrinks to absorb the transmitted shock.
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A pair of shock-absorbing wheels for wheelchairs with integral suspension, designed to help you push over uneven streets, rough tracks, grass and gravel paths, with less effort. The carbon leaf springs give you extra power to get up or down kerbs/curbs. They’re wonderfully comfortable over cobblestones, and potholes needn’t be a problem any more!
When taking on dunes, this off-road truck reduces shift times by 68%, sets its suspension on full damping and allows for moderate oversteer to impart maximum fun.
Unlike suspension forks, which only work in one plane, Loopwheels provide tangential suspension—they absorb force from any direction. Loopwheels respond to head-on force in the same way as they do to a force from above or below.
According to Pearce, one of the advantages of Loopwheels is the fact that unlike a suspension fork, they can absorb shocks delivered not just from underneath or above but also from the front (as might happen when running into a curb head-on). He also admits that many other inventors have come up with designs for wheels with tangential suspension over the past hundred years or so, although he believes that today’s modern materials will allow his to work where others have proved impractical.
Is this trike perfect? Is this the trike you should get? Let’s get one thing straight right now: nothing is perfect, no trike is the one that everyone should buy – but let’s see if the TerraTrike Rambler is a trike you should buy. I always suggest that those interested find their closest dealer that handles the trike or bike involved, and check it out for yourself. I picked this one up at a new (to me) bike shop in the southeastern corner of Cincinnati, Fifty West Cycling – https://www.fiftywestcycling.com/ – nice place!
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