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2: forward- in a plane terrain riding, if your moving forward. (with the 1st case scenario considered) i think its good to.
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Loopwheels launched their journey into production off the back of two highly successful Kickstarter campaigns in 2013 & 2015 where the response from the community was astounding. The brand has since expanded worldwide and now distributes products to over 20 countries.
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Note: when sorting by date, 'descending order' will show the newest results first. Contains unread posts Contains no unread posts Hot thread with unread posts Hot thread with no unread posts Thread is closed You have posted in this thread You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On [VIDEO] code is On HTML code is Off -- Mirage Forum Desktop Style (full-featured) -- Mirage Forum Mobile Style Contact Us MirageForum.com - Mitsubishi Mirage / Space Star / Attrage / Dodge Attitude Forum and Owners Club Archive Top Threads Google Threads Posts Advanced View First Unread Thread Tools Search this Thread Log In | Register By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community > AcuraZine TL/TLX Community > Second Generation TL (1999-2003) > 2G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. i have already bought my rims, i havent put them on yet, should change my suspension first to like the look when its stock, or should i put my rims and change my suspension accordingly Reply Like how much you should lower the car depends on the rims. post some pics of the rims first. also depends on how much you drive in the snow, which i assume you do quite a bit living in canada. maybe some other members have some first hand experience of driving in the snow with a lowered car? I'd change suspension first, then wheels.... but to each their own... ultimately it's up to you. you should always drop first... then buy the rims to fit accordingly... also, putting rims on a stock height car (i know somebody will be butt hurt over this) yeah dont make the same mistake i did... i totally regret getting rims 1st =/ ok .. but if i change my suspension accordingly to my 16 inch stock rims, then put on 19'zz i think it depends on what your unique situation is. if there are rims you really like, buy them and work around it. plus, if your facing winter every year, you do not want to be dropped too much, you'll be sliding all over since you will have a lower center of gravity and have more of a grip demand on your tires. if you drop it three inches, now you need to stick with a really high offset, so that will limit your wheel choices. i think it works the same way no matter what you do-suspension first will limit your wheel options...wheels first will limit your suspension options. do you want to be scraping low with small wheels, or keep it practical with bigger wheels, it's your choice!! in my situation, i really wanted a certain wheel which happened to have a low offset, so i can't lower it too much. i am also up against winter in new england, and shitty roads. so i knew i wasn't lowering too much, i just want to close the wheel gap. so i got the wheels i wanted, which are 19x8 +40 w/ 235/35 tires, learned i have about 2" in the rear and 3" up front to work with, and from there purchased the eibach pro-system-plus which will give me exactly what i'm looking for...improved handling, very little gap in the wheel well, and a lower than stock stance....done & done!! buddy thanks a million, i think u just answered my question, i have the same width rims and tires. i was wondering how much room i might have in order to figure the suspension.
Imperial dimensions are illustrated in inches. Metric dimensions are shown in parenthesis or as noted. Unless noted, all metric dimensions are in millimeters and rounded to one decimal place.
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A robust cast-iron block restrains a forged-steel crankshaft with induction-hardened bearings, all engineered to withstand firing pressures of 1,595 psi—the equivalent of 20,000 pounds of force.
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Not only do these wall-mounted bicycle holders from PARAX take up virtually no space in your home (though the same can't be said for your bike itself) they look almost artful doing it. PARAX's S-RACK and L-RACK model...
A pair of 24″ or 25″ diameter shock-absorbing wheels. Carbon loops with reflective logos. Black anodised aluminium hub with high-quality bearings. Supplied fitted with black aluminium push rims, offset at either 19mm (wide) or 11mm (narrow) from the rim. Or for a more ergonomic experience upgrade to Gekko, Curve or Curve Tetra-Grip hand rims.
Each wheel reportedly weighs about 300 grams (10.5 oz) more than a comparable spoked wheel.
Seconding how compression and rebound get adjusted… Also how will it handle/shed mud? looks like lots of nooks and cranies for mud and debris to hide and cling… I don’t even want to start thinking about what kind of aero properties these bad boys have, … High on my list to try, if I every had the opportunity (’cause dang I’m curious) but low on a buy until the applications for this type of wheel are nailed down. Watchtower on April 14th, 2013 - 8:16pm