GRAND RAPIDS, Mich. — For spring 2021, TerraTrike is going big with an ambitious new model inspired by its popular Gran Tourismo, and the result is a faster, more stable and more comfortable ride. The Gran Tourismo Sport, or GTS, is TerraTrike’s entry to the growing category of all-road endurance cycling – it’s quick enough to jump into a fast group ride, but comfortable enough for hours-long gran fondos. Read More » The Impact of Bent Collisions – April 11th at 2 pm ET. Posted on April 9, 2021 by Larry Varney Jason Dubin has been hit by cars while riding his recumbent bikes and velomobiles in the streets of New York city many times. He joins us to share video and commentary of 3 of these horrifying collisions and talk about his personal safety. Then we widen the discussion with Steve Magas “Ohio’s Bike Lawyer” and our panel to put bent safety into some context and search out the best way for us all to avoid becoming another sad roadside statistic. Honza will present the news, Denny is back with his sports report, Nina Paley leads off our new Bent Product Review series with a look at the Mango velomobile and Doug returns with another “Bent Road Fixes” segment. Laidback Bike Report March 14! Posted on March 13, 2021 by Larry Varney It’ll be crazy fun hearing from the boys of the British Human Power Club on March 14th’s webcast. Join us live at 2 pm eastern time zone on FB or on YouTube here: https://youtu.be/Oijf6afNwlo.
i’d like to see side by side freewheel tests for riders, i think they might be radically less efficient than regular wheels (more comfy maybe :). Ronnie on August 22nd, 2013 - 8:04am swapnil dighe on August 31st, 2018 - 12:29am COMMENT HERE: (For best results, log in through Wordpress or your social media account. Anonymous/fake email comments may be unapproved or deleted. ALL first-time commenter's posts are held for moderation. Check our Comment Policy for full details.) Cancel reply
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"Better mobility could not do enough to help - we had a very tight turnaround time and Beth went to great lengths to make sure our order arrived in time for discharge. Great service, would absolutely recommend."
[Hot Item] Spring damping caster wheels, SA61SP-4''/5''/6''/8'', Caster Wheels, China, Factory, Suppliers, Manufacturers
When I first saw the notice about this company and its products, I thought: who can resist such things? Many of the bicyclists that I know, want to share the joy of their hobby/obsession, sometimes by wearing t-shirts or jerseys with logos on them. Now, they can do that with vinyl decals that they can apply in so many places! So, I got in touch with the company to find out more about their products.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
Pushrim
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I bought a pair of loop wheels a couple a years ago, unless they have improved, i found they bend from side to side. After spending a lot of money on them, i returned to my spocked wheels. So far there is nothing to beat the spocked tried and most successful design. the best suspension i found is seat post suspension and front faulk suspension.
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The Colson Group is the largest manufacturer of caster and wheel products in the world. The company has operations in 14 countries and consists of nine major global operating units. Colson Group USA is the largest operating unit of the Colson Group, and it includes some of the most renowned brands of casters and wheels in the world: Colson, Albion, Shepherd, Jarvis, MedCaster, Pemco, Faultless and Bassick. These brands have been technological leaders in caster advances for more than 350 combined years. The drive and experience of Colson Group innovators have led to some of the most trusted, highest quality and advanced mobility solutions in today’s world.
Reinventing the wheel: The Loopwheels use large springs instead of spokes to give the bike wheels built in suspension
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The lowest-priced brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is applicable).
"Price on application." Not good news for anyone who wants Extans' Akhal Shadow Bike for anything more than a pipe dream. Or a photo on their desktop. But even as the latter, you have to admit this bike, inspired by the...
Event: SAE 2005 World Congress & Exhibition Also in: Advanced Hybrid Vehicle Powertrains 2005-SP-1973 Military vehicles and equipment Test facilities Test procedures Simulation and modeling Wheels
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
The all-new Bilstein® Black Hawk® e2 shock system is the most sophisticated ever offered on a production truck and it’s found only on TRX.
If you wish to be updated by Loopwheels about outfitting your recumbent trike, click HERE, and then scroll down to be added to their email update list. This entry was posted on July 3, 2015 by Trike Hobo. It was filed under Triker's World .
[Hot Item] Spring loaded caster wheels, SA61R-4''/5''/6''/8'', Caster Wheels, China, Factory, Suppliers, Manufacturers
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Have you owned this car from day 1? because that's definitely not sitting at the stock height. lol.
My wheels are staggered, TSW Mugello 20" wheels, no spacers, and am running Toyo Proxes TS tires, 245-35z fronts and 285-30z rears. Not sure how they would be for an X. Hope the info helps! I think 20" on stock is just fine. The ability to adjust the height is the main reason to go with coilover? Well after reading all this I think I will go with the General G-MAX AS-03 245/35/20 at all four corners (since I have an X model) and the 20" Enkei's seen here. Should look good on my moonlight white. I plan to do this in spring so I'll post pics when it's done if anyone still cares at that point. Attached Thumbnails Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Top Honda-Tech - Honda Forum Discussion > Honda and Acura Model-Specific Technical Forums > Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion Hey guys, I have a little project i'm starting up with my EJ2 and I have a hard time figuring out which is better to come first wheels or springs. I have decided to go springs over a full coilover due to budget and I dont really plan on changing height afterwards and I also don't hit tracks. That being said which would be better coming first? The way I see it, lowering the suspension first gives me an idea of wheel sizes I can manage without scrubbing, but at the same time rims/tires offers the same results in a way (atleast how I see it). However, I could be very wrong so I am looking for some input on the better way to go about it. Again, keep in mind I am not getting full coilovers, I would consider coilover sleeves that fit over the strut but as previously stated i'm not really looking to constantly change ride height all the time. It's basically going to be a one and done type deal. Inputs would be greatly appreciated! Like Both are in decent shape, but im talking rims and tires not just tires. I'm trying to figure which way would be the best way to get a stance started.
This if for the wheelchair bound, super fast, super cool t-shirt wearing individual. Printed on a Navy T-Shirt with white lettering.
Forget Retinal Scans And Fingerprints, Brainprints Could Be The Biometrics Of The Future
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They deliver such a smooth ride it is like my world has suddenly become a much flatter place!
I bought the car like this from the dealer. Pretty certain it is stock suspension. The Fronts are 20 x 8.5 and the backs 20 x 10. The front tires are Nankang Untra Sport NS-II 245/35ZR20 and the backs are Nankang Untra Sport NS-II 275/30ZR20. just switched to my winter setup, so i want to move my 20" Here are a couple of pics of my 2009 G37S with stock suspension and 20" wheels. I would love to lower the front some but I am fine with the back and I don't want to get into all the other issues that come up with lowering a car (rubbing, alignment issues, etc etc).
Bold, beautiful and precision-engineered to last. The iconic in-wheel shock absorbers offer a truly unique style. Whether made from aluminum, magnesium or carbon fiber, SoftWheels are guaranteed to turn heads day or night.
Founder Sam Pearce describes his design idea: “In 2007 my idea of a wheel with tangential suspension was born when I was sitting at Eindhoven airport waiting for a flight. I saw a mother pushing her child in a buggy. The front wheels hit a slight kerb and the child jolted forward because of the impact. I asked myself why a wheel couldn’t have suspension inside it, so it would soften an impact from any direction. I sketched the idea in my notebook, got on my flight, and didn’t think much more about it for a couple of years.”
GRAND RAPIDS, Mich. — For spring 2021, TerraTrike is going big with an ambitious new model inspired by its popular Gran Tourismo, and the result is a faster, more stable and more comfortable ride. The Gran Tourismo Sport, or GTS, is TerraTrike’s entry to the growing category of all-road endurance cycling – it’s quick enough to jump into a fast group ride, but comfortable enough for hours-long gran fondos. Read More » The Impact of Bent Collisions – April 11th at 2 pm ET. Posted on April 9, 2021 by Larry Varney Jason Dubin has been hit by cars while riding his recumbent bikes and velomobiles in the streets of New York city many times. He joins us to share video and commentary of 3 of these horrifying collisions and talk about his personal safety. Then we widen the discussion with Steve Magas “Ohio’s Bike Lawyer” and our panel to put bent safety into some context and search out the best way for us all to avoid becoming another sad roadside statistic. Honza will present the news, Denny is back with his sports report, Nina Paley leads off our new Bent Product Review series with a look at the Mango velomobile and Doug returns with another “Bent Road Fixes” segment. Laidback Bike Report March 14! Posted on March 13, 2021 by Larry Varney It’ll be crazy fun hearing from the boys of the British Human Power Club on March 14th’s webcast. Join us live at 2 pm eastern time zone on FB or on YouTube here: https://youtu.be/Oijf6afNwlo.
It’s an elaborate design and really shouldn’t warrant hate in itself, but it’s a questionable application for bicycles. This would be awesome in smaller city cars, perhaps. ChudTruMud on May 20th, 2016 - 7:48pm
Note: When used for mechanical supports, load capacities of brackets, fittings and other supporting elements should be in compliance with the American Standard Code for Pressure Piping. Clamps are designed to be used with W, M, S & HP Shape beams, Standard C & Misc. MC Channels, Angles & Structural Tees. Clamps must be used in pairs where indicated. For beam clamps with HG finish, standard hardware is EG finish. For optional stainless steel hardware, please contact the factory for availability. Extreme Rims
"Price on application." Not good news for anyone who wants Extans' Akhal Shadow Bike for anything more than a pipe dream. Or a photo on their desktop. But even as the latter, you have to admit this bike, inspired by the...
Another obvious choice for marked visual and performance improvement is an upgraded set of wheels. Project e-tron came from the factory with the largest possible 21-inch wheels that were light, forged and optimized for e-tron – narrow width and rated for the higher weight of electric batteries.
If you wish to be updated by Loopwheels about outfitting your recumbent trike, click HERE, and then scroll down to be added to their email update list. This entry was posted on July 3, 2015 by Trike Hobo. It was filed under Triker's World .
Your trial is for 21 days from the date you place your order, but considering shipping & holidays, you’ll have around 2 weeks to assess them.
Loopwheels come in front- and rear-specific versions, one of the key differences being that the springs in the front wheel are twice as compliant as those in the back. This is (presumably) to help keep the wheel that does the steering from being knocked and bounced around, plus it compensates for the fact that more of the rider’s weight tends to be centered over the rear wheel.
Suspension blocks are the quickest way to provide both, in addition to suspension and turning capabilities, but don't necessarily meet all demands. A rotor can also be used, but has a much lower maximum speed (60rpm, regardless of wheel size) for propulsion purposes - however it can also have its braking torque set to 0 to make it a free-wheeling axle.
Loopwheel springs are made from a carbon composite material, carefully developed and tested to give optimum compression and lateral stability as well as strength and durability. Specially-designed connectors attach the springs to the hub and rim. The three loops in each wheel work together as a self-correcting system. This spring system between the hub and the rim of the wheel provides suspension that constantly adjusts to uneven terrain, cushioning the rider from bumps and potholes in the road. In effect, the hub floats within the rim, adjusting constantly as shocks from an uneven road hit the rim of the wheel. The spring configuration allows the torque to be transferred smoothly between the hub and the rim.
PU wear-resistant flash wheel, high elasticity, non-slip, abrasion resistant, quiet and smooth, no damage to the floor, durable.
A picture of the very incomplete gantry as it currently is, to give a better idea of what I'm up to: < > The only other way to get wheels to turn is either roll them freely unbound to anything, or attach them to a rotor. You can adjust the suspension settings to make them ridged, and you can use vertically oriented suspensions to prevent side wobble as if it was on rails. Wheels lack any form of propulsion on their own. They also lack any form of innate rotation ability. They're just cylindrical objects, exactly as they are in the real world (try welding a wheel directly to something sometime and see how well it spins). You need to provide an axle to them, and propulsion should you require it as well.
The composite springs give you extra power to get up or down kerbs. Loopwheels replacement wheelchair wheels are more comfortable than standard wheels: they absorb tiring vibration, as well as bumps and shocks. They naturally adjust for uneven camber – the slope on the side of a road. With standard quick release axles and two sizes (24″ and 25″), Loopwheels fit most manual wheelchairs. Products Default sorting Sort by popularity Sort by average rating Sort by latest Sort by price: low to high Sort by price: high to low Loopwheels Extreme From: £1,800.00 View Options Loopwheels Urban From: £1,800.00 View Options Loopwheels Carbon Wheels From: £1,199.00 View Options Multi-Coloured Loopwheels Classics From: £999.00 View Options Coloured Loopwheels Classics From: £899.00 View Options Black Loopwheels Classics From: £799.00 View Options
REDLIRO Kids/Adults Scooter with Rear Break, Adjustable Handlebars, Big Wheels, Shock Absorption, Double Suspension - Folding Sport Kick Scooters for Teens Boys
The spokes on a standard spoked wheel hold it in tension. If the spokes lose tension, they start to break and the rim will buckle. A Loopwheel is not held in tension by its springs therefore the rim is strong, double-walled, and less likely to suffer from buckling or fracture at the rim.
The spokes on a standard spoked wheel hold it in tension. If the spokes lose tension, they start to break and the rim will buckle. A Loopwheel is not held in tension by its springs therefore the rim is strong, double-walled, and less likely to suffer from buckling or fracture at the rim.
Forging a true Nature’s Path with regenerative agriculture: interview with Arjan Stephens of Nature’s Path
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A good selection of accessories such as screws, bolts, washers and nuts that you may need for your daily engineering usage. Screws, Bolts Screws for Building Materials Washers Nuts Anchors Rivet Insert Tools Washers, Collars Shims Hair Pins, Cotter Pins Machine Keys Retaining Rings Screw Plugs Adjuster Dowel Pins, Spring Pins, Stepped Pins
Any returns or cancellations after 48 hours from purchase will carry a cancellation fee up to 20% of the total order value contingent of ongoing labor hours and/or any associated shipping fees unless the fault is ours. As many of our items are very expensive to ship and handle, due to vendor contracts some products can carry up to a 30% restocking fee; please contact us for any questions.
The first performance-focused steering wheel on a Ram Truck boasts integrated aluminum shift paddles, a flat-bottom shape and available carbon fiber and Alcantara® suede accents—exactly what you should expect in a performance truck.
Suspension blocks are the quickest way to provide both, in addition to suspension and turning capabilities, but don't necessarily meet all demands. A rotor can also be used, but has a much lower maximum speed (60rpm, regardless of wheel size) for propulsion purposes - however it can also have its braking torque set to 0 to make it a free-wheeling axle.
Standard Dimensions for 1-5/8" (41.3 mm) width series channel (Unless otherwise specified in Unistrut General Engineering Catalog):
In a Globe story this February, reporter Eric Moskowitz noted that Boston fills approximately 19,000 potholes in an average winter, and that the city has gone as far as developing a new app, called Street Bump, that attempts to give drivers the ability to instantly notify City Hall when a new crater appears. And that's just the city of Boston. Do the math and consider how many gaping holes have appeared in the New England region after last winter's prodigious snowfall.
Because of the integral suspension, Loopwheels are more comfortable than standard wheelchair wheels. They absorb tiring vibration, bumps and shocks.
