Less effort is needed to push over uneven pavements, cobbles, grass and gravel paths and it’s easier to get up kerbs too.
That was a fantastic read. Thanks for sharing, I have already made a list of things I want to do with my car, granted not an interior list nor a 100% complete list, but as far as budget and small things (considering its just gonna be a mild modded DD) as the thread you linked calls it but I still got something out of it. Thanks again. Eventually i'm going to do a B-Swap but suspension work is a no brainer to get out of the way, atleast in my opinion OK..........so why are you asking us what should you do first if its a no brainer to you? Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. A good riding spring lowers the car about 1-2" maximum. Some suggestions would be eibach pro kits, h&r sports, or Tein S techs with koni STRT shocks. They'll work fine with 15x7 +40 or so. I'd use 205/50/15's. But you can also use the stock 195/55/15. If you buy the wheels/tires first, the car will look funny until you lower it.
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My wheels are staggered, TSW Mugello 20" wheels, no spacers, and am running Toyo Proxes TS tires, 245-35z fronts and 285-30z rears. Not sure how they would be for an X. Hope the info helps! I think 20" on stock is just fine. The ability to adjust the height is the main reason to go with coilover? Well after reading all this I think I will go with the General G-MAX AS-03 245/35/20 at all four corners (since I have an X model) and the 20" Enkei's seen here. Should look good on my moonlight white. I plan to do this in spring so I'll post pics when it's done if anyone still cares at that point. Attached Thumbnails Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Top Honda-Tech - Honda Forum Discussion > Honda and Acura Model-Specific Technical Forums > Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion Hey guys, I have a little project i'm starting up with my EJ2 and I have a hard time figuring out which is better to come first wheels or springs. I have decided to go springs over a full coilover due to budget and I dont really plan on changing height afterwards and I also don't hit tracks. That being said which would be better coming first? The way I see it, lowering the suspension first gives me an idea of wheel sizes I can manage without scrubbing, but at the same time rims/tires offers the same results in a way (atleast how I see it). However, I could be very wrong so I am looking for some input on the better way to go about it. Again, keep in mind I am not getting full coilovers, I would consider coilover sleeves that fit over the strut but as previously stated i'm not really looking to constantly change ride height all the time. It's basically going to be a one and done type deal. Inputs would be greatly appreciated! Like Both are in decent shape, but im talking rims and tires not just tires. I'm trying to figure which way would be the best way to get a stance started.
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Things turn even further in the favor of the ASW system if you factor in punctures, blowouts, tire fires and how long a truck has to be out of service each year while those monster tires get changed. ASW treads are bolt-on, bolt-off chunks that can be changed with very little gear, without even jacking any wheels up, and done in sections during shift changes and lunch breaks so the truck's never out of service due to tires. They can also ship much more cheaply, since the whole assembly can be broken down into bits that easily fit in a regular shipping container.
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Just purchased a 2nd Traxion for my wife; after she borrowed mine she had to have one. This one arrived in perfect condition via UPS. Had to fine tune the brakes and shifters but that is easy. The people here having pedal/crank problems are causing the problem themselves by installing them dry and severly over tightening them. Put a little grease on the threads and take them down to just beyond finger tight. They are threaded opposite of the crank rotation and will not back out, and if you ever need to replace them they'll come out easily without seizing or galling. Great bike for the money!
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Not to mention, they're virtually invulnerable to sabotage, as they can't be slashed, and their inner workings are protected both from malicious acts and from mud, dust and water by big metal plate covers. So they can also be made bulletproof for military vehicles.
More advanced details about this project can be found in an interview conducted in Korean after he won the award.
After coming up with the design for the loopwheel, he and wife Gemma realised that it was a risky venture and they would need to prove the product worked and manufacture it themselves to get it to market.
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