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Technical ArticlesRear Wheel Drive Suspension OverviewRear Wheel Drive Suspension Overview Cameron from IPD goes thru the suspension components of rear wheel drive model Volvos and explains the basic setup and identifies the primary parts. "All right Cameron from here and today we're going to talk about some of the basics of suspension on a rear-wheel drive Volvo what the main components are where they are and what you should look out for. Here on the lift today we have a Volvo 242 so we'll talk about the main components on the front of it. First a lot of this is very much the same as you'll find on a Volvo 740 or a Volvo 940. As far as the front strut assemblies going and what the basic components are, even though they look a little different in those cars this should still give you a good idea of kind of where everything is and what it does. Looking also right here what you'll see is this, this is the sway bar end link bolts here to the control arm. This goes up and attach this to the sway bar right here which then goes across. Sway bars up you should be pretty familiar with on your car because it's IPD's flagship product and we've got huge upgrades for these that make the car handle ten times better and make it a whole new car. That's kind about it for the front it's a pretty basic suspension system there's just the control arm, ball joint, strut assembly, sway bar, and end link and the associated small pieces like control arm bushings that are here and here. Looking from the other side of the rear end of the car to show you some of the other components. We've just got a couple more pieces that complete the rear suspension system. This one is obviously the coil spring it is mounted on the back of the trailing arm here. If we follow that up we're going to see what is called the Panhard bar what its job basically is to locate the car over the rear axle. If you watch it here it bolts through the chassis of the car follow it down this way and it connects to a bracket on this side on the actual rear end. So, it's what is suspending it left to right and holding the car balancing it left to right over the rear end of the car. That's about it for the suspension very simple setup on these Volvo 740s and Volvo 940s are a little bit different but the basics are pretty much the same they use the same kind of components and hopefully, this helps you identify what's under your car you know what you're looking at any education is always going to help you maintain your car better. My Account My Garage My Orders Account Details Sign Off Shopping Products Privacy Policy Terms & Conditions Returns & Warranty F A Q Company About Us Contact Us Careers Blog Tech Tips Engage Classifieds Project Cars iPd Employees Community Links IPD Volvo Forums Volvo Club of America IPD is the Volvo Parts, Accessories and Performance Specialists Since 1963.
Need looks and performance? Coilover suspension is a great option for anyone looking to lower their center of gravity while improving overall handling. Most coilover kits offer both ride height and dampening adjustability while coming in a complete package that will replace your stock springs and shock absorbers.
Making a bunch of assumptions about usage, you're up for a set of six of these huge hoops a year plus a spare, giving you a 10-year tire budget of around $2.66 million per truck. (These figures are adapted from the ASW company's own comparison spreadsheets, which use rubber tire pricing of $110,000 each from 2009. These tires are now much cheaper according to our research.)
item 5 Hot Wheels New Loop Track Free Shipping Loop Builder 5 -Hot Wheels New Loop Track Free Shipping Loop Builder
With any wheels there is always a little trepidation about hitting larger more inanimate objects but with Sam goading me on I started to aim for rocks, ruts and tree roots (did I mention we were riding off road!!!) and in every instance the wheels soaked up the impact, leaving me free to ride the bike without worry of knackered rims, aching arms or even getting up out of the saddle to soak up the impact – you can just let the wheels do the work.
For the commuter, or indeed for the rider that values comfort rather than speed (but still wants to put in a lick of pace when needed) then this really does tick all the boxes.
This active suspension preserves more of the forward motion energy that would normally be lost as the suspension allows the wheelchair to bob and sag. It also allows the wheelchair to ride over curbs and bumps that might have stopped traditional wheelchairs, giving users better access to places where ramps haven’t yet been installed.
@ Grunchy: Very good question regarding the un-sprung weight. Due to the internal suspension, only about a 1/3 of the total weight of the wheel is un-sprung weight, actually lowering the weight that is 'seen' by the axle. Therefore, even IF the ASW would be heavier overall, the vehicle's drive-train sees far less strain and weight. Forgot your password? SHOP WHEEL & TIRE PACKAGES WHEELS TIRES SUSPENSION ACCESSORIES APPAREL TODAY'S DEALS SHOP ALL GALLERY ADD MY CAR VIEW GALLERY BRANDS WHEELS TIRES SUSPENSION VIEW ALL GIVEAWAY CURRENT GIVEAWAY OUR DONATIONS ABOUT STREET TEAM OUR STORY RESOURCES BLOGS WHEEL GUIDE TIRE GUIDE SUSPENSION GUIDE CALCULATORS VIDEOS GALLERY CONTACT US TRACK YOUR ORDER SHOP + WHEEL & TIRE PACKAGES WHEELS TIRES SUSPENSION ACCESSORIES APPAREL TODAY'S DEALS SHOP ALL GALLERY + ADD MY CAR VIEW GALLERY BRANDS + WHEELS TIRES SUSPENSION SHOP ALL GIVEAWAY + CURRENT GIVEAWAY OUR DONATIONS ABOUT + STREET TEAM OUR STORY RESOURCES + BLOGS WHEEL GUIDE TIRE GUIDE SUSPENSION GUIDE CALCULATORS VIDEOS GALLERY CONTACT US TRACK YOUR ORDER
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When you have plenty of bicycle to work with, such as is the case with a mountain bike, it’s not such a big deal to design it with front and rear suspension. When the bicycle in question is a diminutive folding city bike, however, it gets a bit trickier. That’s why UK industrial designer Sam Pearce has created Loopwheels. Instead of relying on a suspension fork and rear shock, it lets the bike’s 20-inch wheels absorb the bumps.
All parts drawings illustrate only one application of each fitting. In most cases many other applications are possible. The channels shown in the illustrations are P1000, 15⁄8" square, except where noted otherwise. All 9⁄16" diameter holes use 1⁄2" x 15⁄16" hex head cap screws and 1⁄2" nuts – P1010, P3010, P4010 or P5510 – depending on the channel used. Nuts and bolts are not included with the fitting and must be ordered separately.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
Loopwheels use an off-the-shelf bicycle wheel but removes the spokes in place of a spring system between the hub and the rim for integral suspension. That suspension is made up of three carbon composite springs that act as shock absorbers with 45mm of travel, cushioning the rider for a smooth and comfortable ride. Unlike standard bike suspension systems, it provides tangential suspension, allowing your ride to absorb shocks from all directions — even from the front and rear.