How does it constrain the axial translation and the 3 rotations? Is is springy in all those 4 directions as well? Greg Mixson April 18, 2013 01:24 PM
Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. Suspension, but don't just slap on some lowering springs on stock stocks; invest the money and get both. Better to do both then put on lowering springs then have to break down the assembly two months later to replace the spent stock shocks. Save yourself some labor. yea true. its been answered.. IDK even know where I would move it to. So its closed 18" TE 37 wheel hop/, smaller wheels w/ bigger tires? heavier wheels? Suspension? Featured How-Tos Honda Civic: Body Modifications Why is My Dashboard Cracking? How to Paint Interior Why is My Engine Hesitating? Honda Accord: Fuse Box Diagram All How-Tos » Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Top View First Unread Thread Tools Search this Thread Log in | Register S2KI Honda S2000 Forums > General Interest > The S2000 Gallery The S2000 Gallery Cornucopia of sight and sound! Show your friends your S2000 photos, S2000 images, S2000 photochops and S2000 videos. so i've searched and searched but most threads are old so the pics dont work. my car is currently lowered and the rear is WAY too stiff so im thinking of going back to stock suspension and keeping my 17" wheels. ps. i've always driven lowered cars, dumped cars actually so i dont wanna hear the 4x4 comments or people bragging about how low they are. Here's my S2000. I am on stock suspension and have 18" Rota D2 wheels. I get a lot of compliments on it actually. yokes... suspension before wheels guys please for the love of the kittens I understand your opinion, but for some of us having a lowered ride height is not an option. My car is a daily driver...year round...through Michigan winters. Thus lowering makes my car less practical than normal. So the comment about "suspension before wheels" is unnecessary for me. I'd like to see how many guys that are lowered get through a Michigan winter like I do! I agree that the lowered ride height looks great, and if I had a second car or didn't need to drive through winter snow, I'd lower my car slightly as well. Drove my integra tucking tires thru MN winters when I was younger and I could only afford one car To be honest with the stock sized tires. My buddies stock s2k with stock ap2 wheels and tires doesn't look that bad at stock height. man my car is tucking and out here the roads are some of the worst around, stock height is not an excuse! No offense, but you live in Texas and your winters are nothing compared to Michigan. I don't mind my car at stock height; it works for me. Haters are always gonna hate... I'm sure you were brave enough to drive a slammed Integra through the winters but....did you want to? Did it handle great? Was clearance an issues? Let's be realistic guys... Not all of us can afford to lower our cars, or have second cars, or can deal with the impracticality. Different strokes for different folks. have you considered a small drop? maybe koni yellow or something Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Top Thank you for your quote request. A representative will get back to you shortly. For immediate assistance please call . Your Information: First Name* Last Name* Phone* Email* Select a Location* : E Whittier Blvd, La Habra, CA S Monte Vista St, La Habra, CA Salinas Tires & Wheels, Westminster CA N Hacienda Blvd, La Puente, CA Your Vehicle: Year Make Model Option — OR — Let us find your vehicle info for you: Get My Vehicle Info Comments * Required Field Suspension Repair in La Habra, CA Properly aligned steering and suspension can help deliver a smooth and controlled ride. Salinas Tires & Wheels offers quality affordable La Habra, CA auto repair services and La Habra, CA Suspension Repair. What they do: The steering system and suspension systems bear the weight of your vehicle, maintain the tires on the road while driving and assist in delivering a hassle-free, safer trip. Why service is necessary: The steering and suspension system must be checked at least once a year to prevent significant repairs. Anytime you feel symptoms of steering or suspension troubles have your mechanic check your car to correct the issue rapidly. Extended steering and suspension concerns will result in extreme safety dangers quickly. Indicators that you require your steering and suspension system examined consist of: Pulling to the side Troubles steering Complications driving over uneven roads or dips Vehicle continues to bounce after going over a bump Tires stray or shake Steering seems to be slipping To help ensure your steering and shocks are working appropriately, a technician may examine all of your steering and suspension parts, and will also evaluate: Power steering fluid Tightness of nuts and bolts Uneven tires or wear Unbalanced wheels Torn or used power steering belts Problems with alignment Impacts and/or Struts Steering Wheel Alignment Our technicians will also inspect your tires and tire balance to make sure the complications are not tire-related. We will take care of all of your steering necessities, call or stop in today for an estimation! Call Salinas Tires & Wheels soon to set up your next Suspension Repair and Wheel Alignment service. Salinas Tires & Wheels is proud to be your number one auto repair services in La Habra, CA and provider of La Habra, CA tires. Salinas Tires & Wheels proudly serves the local La Habra and Westminster, CA areas. We understand that getting your car fixed or buying new tires can be overwhelming. Let us help you choose from our large selection of tires. We feature tires that fit your needs and budget from top quality brands, such as Michelin®, BFGoodrich®, Uniroyal®, and more. We pride ourselves on being your number one choice for any auto repair. Let us earn your business. Home Tires Wheels Services Coupons About Us Contact Privacy Policy Terms of Use Sitemap Accessibility Powered by By clicking "Continue" or continuing to use our site, you acknowledge that you accept our Privacy Policy and Terms of Use. We also use cookies to provide you with the best possible experience on our website. You can find out more about the cookies we use and learn how to manage them here. Feel free to check out our policies anytime for more information. MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion > General > 2003-2009 Nissan 350Z > 350Z Roadster Before creating a new thread or contacting a moderator/administrator, please peruse the following threads first to see if it's already been addressed: My350Z.com Terms of Use (TOU) - || - Top 100 FAQs - || - Marketplace FAQs - || - Premier Membership I have searched through the modified Roadster picture thread, but I can't decipher which pics are wheels on stock suspension or if the car is lowered. Can the people with aftermarket rims and stock suspension please post pics of their ride. I want to see if aftermarket wheels would look weird on stock height. btw. I may be finalizing a deal on a ZR tomorrow...but I'm still undecided. These pics could sway me. Personally, I think it looks fine. The wheel gap left after putting 19's on my Z is even-spaced all around. Straight from the factory, the wheel gap on a Z is considerably less than most cars out there. Even compared to a handful of high-dollar supercars, the Z's gap is less. I've done the drop thing in the past, but I just can't justify it as much with the Z. Sure, it may look a little better dropped, but I don't think it looks bad at all with the factory ride height (with or without aftermarket wheels). damn that looks sweet! definitely dont need to lower anymore. I bought my wheels like almost two years ago, on the stock suspension, it made me wanna cry....look how horrible it looks, also it didnt help I bought the wrong size tires for the rear, a stretched 275/30, my 285/35's are the perfect size now, but even if I had them on stock suspension, its gross looking. these first two pics are without my Tein Stechs(the car looks like a damn truck its so high), the third is the same tires with the Teins, it looked alot better but the tire being the wrong size still bothered me, finally the last pics are Teins + 235/35 and 285/35 tires...its as close to perfect as I am going to get, any lower I would have to shave the fender wall and get some suspension, but I am happy where it sits. Last edited by atar350; 02-25-2007 at 11:01 AM. when i got my wheels i just rofl'd for awhile at the 4x4 look i had going. i had to do something about it so i got some hotchkis springs. mild drop, much better. It doesnt look bad at all, but the nice thing about the Teins and some other springs (not all, because some just slam the car to the ground) was it was less then an inchdrop and gave it a more aggressive stance, body roll really wasnt an issue on the Z stock, but with some good springs it feels even more solid, I'd recommend them to you. Beleive me it was bad without springs, here is a good pic of the horrid gap on stock suspension... Last edited by dutchboy350Z; 02-25-2007 at 11:25 AM. lol, 20's will help fill a tire well, your car looks good but is really high off the ground, your car would be baaaaaaad lowered some. The Z coupe does look like its riding high now that I took another look at it. So I am having a hard time deciding whether or not to trade in my car for the ZR. The whole impracticality of the car and having it as a daily driver even in winter is scaring me...someone help convince me... So I am having a hard time deciding whether or not to trade in my car for the ZR. The whole impracticality of the car and having it as a daily driver even in winter is scaring me...someone help convince me...
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Both modeling and experimental results demonstrate several realistic scenarios in which wheel hubs experience accelerations greater than 100g, sometimes at very low vehicle speeds. This paper focuses on the experimental determination of suitable design goals for in-hub motors (wheel motors), describing the experimental test rig, experiment procedures, and experimental results from testing conducted at UT-CEM. The paper also discusses implications of these results on wheel motor design, leading to the conclusion that a realizable and feasible design goal for a combat vehicle wheel motor shock rating is 150 g's, with a 10 to 20 ms pulse width.
I’m beginning my return and hopefully the next one doesn’t have this issue. Is there something on the user end that can cause this or is this something that was just wrong with the manufacturing? 1.0 out of 5 stars its as if it lost its ability to screw in its socket (it looks more like an issue with the socket and not the actual ... By Manuel on March 31, 2018 Hopefully this is an isolated case but my bike just broke after less than 4-5 hours of use spread across 3 days (normal park trails, no crazy mountain climbing). The right pedal just fell off while ridding and it won’t go back in, its as if it lost its ability to screw in its socket (it looks more like an issue with the socket and not the actual pedal).
OK, after pouring through much of the other thread, I felt I spent so much time looking at setups that weren't relevant to what I was looking to do...which is stay on stock suspension. So this thread is dedicated to Aftermarket wheels on stock suspension. *List wheel make and model with offset and width as well as tire make/model/size. *Try to take pics showing "poke." That means refrain from turning the front wheels for the pics. Keep 'em pointed straight and try to get some shots down the side of the car that will help others make a decision. *If you've rolled, pulled fenders and/or used the slotted strut mounts for more tire/fender clearance that is ok, just let us know when you post your setup.
A trailing arm is attached to the wheel hub at one end, and extends forward to a pivot on the frame.
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Within 20 metres you notice how smooth the ride is, looking down and you see that its not fresh tarmac, rather it’s a country road, yet the ride gives no indication of the road surface, its just smooth – you are feeling the road rather than the grotty surface.
I spent about 20 minutes out with Sam on the 20″ wheels, coupled up with the Dahon folding bike, and immediately there is something special about them.