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Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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His point was that the general consumer market is drawn to crossovers and SUVs, and not station wagons. Contrarily, Project e-tron is enthusiast owned… and Audi enthusiasts tend to prefer Avants. The low-slung long roof of the e-tron’s body makes for a quasi-Avant profile. While the general automotive buyer **may** disagree, we think there’s something to it. Audi’s considerable history of sporting longroofs gives considerable credibility and resonates with aficionados. For us, lowering Project e-tron was always part of the plan.
[Hot Item] stainless steel spring shock absorber casters, SA68SPB-3''/4''/5'', Caster Wheels, China, Factory, Suppliers, Manufacturers
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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It may work fine but high volume tyres can do a very similar job while being simpler lighter and cheaper… Speshy on May 20th, 2016 - 3:38pm Ventruck. on May 20th, 2016 - 4:20pm
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That’s why we come to work every day - to provide discerning readers like you with must-read coverage of Israel and the Jewish world.
Don’t blink. With eight extra inches of overall width, massive 35-inch tires and a menacing stance, TRX asserts itself as the most muscular truck to ever leave our factory.
The forces imposed on the anti-roll bar subject it to constant twisting and flexing, which in turn put its various rubber mounting bushes under great load. The bushes gradually wear and lose their effectiveness. Over a period of years the rubber hardens and tends to crack.
When I first saw the notice about this company and its products, I thought: who can resist such things? Many of the bicyclists that I know, want to share the joy of their hobby/obsession, sometimes by wearing t-shirts or jerseys with logos on them. Now, they can do that with vinyl decals that they can apply in so many places! So, I got in touch with the company to find out more about their products.
Much like their wheelchair design has made it easier and more comfortable for users to get around in an urban environment, SoftWheel hopes the Fluent wheel can do the same thing for cyclists. The way they describe how the wheel absorbs shocks claims that they are especially effective at abrupt sharp edge obstacles like riding up and down stairs. Since the rim can variably move in the direction of each impact (as opposed to a typical fork which can only telescope up and down, or a rear suspension setup which is confined to the axle path determined by its layout), it is better suited to the wide range of actual impacts your normally encounter.
Swivel shock absorbing casters Wheel Material:Cast Iron core,PU wheels Size:Ø152 x 50mm ; Ø200 x 50mm Loading Capacity:260kg ~ 300kg Bearing Type: Double Ball Bearing
First developed to smooth the ride of people confined to wheelchairs, Israeli-based SoftWheel has taken their in-wheels suspension concept and refined it for a wide of cyclists. By essentially isolating the bicycle rim from the hub with a set of three tunable shocks with hydraulic rebound damping, the Fluent bike wheel is said to deliver an unmatched level of comfort, while maintaining ride control and stability, and actually reducing energy lost when riding over obstacles and surface irregularities. Take a closer look at options for city and even e-bikes after the jump…
The first performance-focused steering wheel on a Ram Truck boasts integrated aluminum shift paddles, a flat-bottom shape and available carbon fiber and Alcantara® suede accents—exactly what you should expect in a performance truck.
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