Loopwheels come in front- and rear-specific versions, one of the key differences being that the springs in the front wheel are twice as compliant as those in the back. This is (presumably) to help keep the wheel that does the steering from being knocked and bounced around, plus it compensates for the fact that more of the rider’s weight tends to be centered over the rear wheel.
Looks great...thanks! Those are very clear, telling pics...no fear about getting 20" wheels now. I appreciate it. Not to mention the tires are significantly cheaper than 19's. What I was referring to before was a generalization with 19" wheels as opposed to your concern of having 20". When it comes to how a car looks with aftermarket wheels, it really depends on a combination of the offset, size and width. A combination of the three as compared with stock specs will either give you more positive or negative camber and therefore can change the wheel gap. Before you make your purchase, I recommend learning how the dimensions of your setup will change based on the wheels that you want. This will give you a better understanding of their affect on your wheel gap. The pics i've seen so far have been fine so I doubt there will be a huge change but nonetheless, your best bet would be finding a picture of a stock suspension car with the same sized wheels and offsets that you want.
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JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Joined Mar 19, 2021 Messages 55 Reaction score 108 Location Dallas, TX Website uwgtb.com Car(s) Land Cruiser 200 Series, '21 Supra
Innovative design means the wheel has a stiff structure but an element of compression. The springs within the wheel are made of a carbon composite material.
i will have pics shortly, havn't put everything on permanantly yet, waiting a couple more weeks til spring. i have the wheels & suspension sitting in my house staring at me everyday, it's painful. but if you open this link, you will see 19x8 +40 lowered 1.5", just for reference. and honestly, i'm afraid to post pics on this site with the way people pick things apart, but i probably will anyway-give me a few weeks!!
With every rotation the springs will bend and absorb a amount of energy. Normally this is called “damping”. Its pretty useful in some cases. But it’s pretty unusual to damp a rotation of wheels, because this will slow down the straight moving. For Bicycles (and all other vehicles) you should mount your springs in the direction where the impact is coming from plus a additional damper to stop the bouncing of the spring. David on April 14th, 2013 - 6:03pm Hmmmm on April 14th, 2013 - 6:31pm
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Seems like a lot of the aftermarket wheels are on lowered Supras, anybody here running aftermarket wheels with stock suspension? Unfortunately with my driveway and roads, lowering may not be an option due to the possibility of scraping. I feel others may be in the same boat so this may be a helpful thread. Please share photos and specs of your aftermarket wheels/tires with stock suspension! First Name Sam Joined May 4, 2020 Messages 167 Reaction score 158 Location Houston Car(s) 2021 A91, 2008 S2000 CR, tow pigs First Name Dan Joined Oct 5, 2020 Messages 64 Reaction score 107 Location OH, US Car(s) '21 Supra 3.0 premium Gram Lights 57CR in gloss black: 19x9.5 +25, 19x10.5 +35 stock tires, stock suspension. Doubt I'll ever change it, but if I do, it'll be a minimal drop because I'm not getting any younger First Name Kyle Joined Jun 22, 2020 Messages 243 Reaction score 123 Location CA Car(s) 2020 A90 GR Supra, 1996 NA Miata, 2014 Camry SE but none the less, here is my contribution. still trying to figure out my fitment tho.. i dont think im going to lower my car (due to my driveway, which i already scrape on, and my daily drives) theyre ESR SR01 19x9.5 +22 front and 19x10.5 +22 on rears. I had to run a 12mm spacer in front to clear the caliper (which i thought it was going to clear, but sadly was wong) which made my rear fitment a bit weak compared to the front. so i had to compensate with a little 5mm spacer on the rear (still not sure whether to run a 5mm or 10mm spacer on the rear, i feel like 10mm would be really pushing it and will rub badly.) First Name Steve Joined Nov 21, 2020 Messages 593 Reaction score 574 Location Beaufort South Carolina Car(s) 2021 a91 edition Supra 2016 Lexus rc f BMW 435I imo Wheels should not poke out from the fenders...makes the car look like a 4 wheel drive...but each his own If so why not change the barrels for a more flush fit? Or were you going for a poke look? First Name Kyle Joined Jun 22, 2020 Messages 243 Reaction score 123 Location CA Car(s) 2020 A90 GR Supra, 1996 NA Miata, 2014 Camry SE If so why not change the barrels for a more flush fit? Or were you going for a poke look? i was going for a more "flush" look and its the only offset they offered. I thought i was going to clear upfront, and worried more with the rear. but it turned out the other way around.. and since the front poked out, i was trying to compensate on the rears. but i dont mind "a little" poke just not too much. oh well at least it looks decent
That was a fantastic read. Thanks for sharing, I have already made a list of things I want to do with my car, granted not an interior list nor a 100% complete list, but as far as budget and small things (considering its just gonna be a mild modded DD) as the thread you linked calls it but I still got something out of it. Thanks again. Eventually i'm going to do a B-Swap but suspension work is a no brainer to get out of the way, atleast in my opinion OK..........so why are you asking us what should you do first if its a no brainer to you? Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. A good riding spring lowers the car about 1-2" maximum. Some suggestions would be eibach pro kits, h&r sports, or Tein S techs with koni STRT shocks. They'll work fine with 15x7 +40 or so. I'd use 205/50/15's. But you can also use the stock 195/55/15. If you buy the wheels/tires first, the car will look funny until you lower it.
The design most likely requires a drum or disc brake since the rim’s position would likely change too much for rim brakes. We’re thinking this could be a fun design for commuter and city bikes where aerodynamics and weight are slightly trumped by comfort, particularly where the streets are a bit rough. More info as it comes online, and another pic after the break… Androo on April 14th, 2013 - 1:57pm
"Loopwheels are fantastic, much stronger and able to take the knocks and bumps on the roads, pavements and woods, initially a large investment but so worth the money, just buy them..."
I was happy with my purchase until this point. The bike looks nice and handled great. The only issue I noticed before this was that the left gear (I’m no bike expert, sorry if if that’s not the correct term) sort of made a weird noise when switching between one of the three settings (the chain sort of took a while to set correctly). The right gear worked flawlessly.
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Thats another issue im going to have is picking a tire size, do you think 1.5 is enough to be flush? It seems my fender gap is more prominent in the front and the back is slightly lower, could be my worn out springs showing. Also if you could recommend a tire that would go well with a 1.5 lowering (if thats enough) to go over 15X7s
Colour of loops - Black , Colour of logos - Red, Pink, Yellow, Green, Teal, Light Blue, Grey, Purple Bad Good Available Options --- Please Select --- Without tyre Schwalbe marathon plus tyre and Presta inner tubes (+ £73.00) Schwalbe marathon plus tyre and Schrader inner tubes (+ £73.00) --- Please Select --- Aluminium anodised Narrow (11mm) Aluminium anodised Wide (19mm) --- Please Select --- Grey logo colour Pink logo colour Purple logo colour Red logo colour Teal logo colour Yellow logo colour Blue logo colour Green Logo colour --- Please Select --- 25" 24"