In 1990 I designed this wheel with suspension and damping incorporated.I am glad to see this on the market. In those years I had no luck finding some business to develop and sell it. cruzraylson on May 5th, 2019 - 9:19pm
The revolutionary Loopwheels have been specially designed to help wheelchair users get around more easily and with more comfort. The shock absorbing springs can give you extra power to get up kerbs and reduce jolting as you come down - for a smoother ride wherever you go.
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4: Up hill- this is where i think you may encounter difficulty. since its a climb. assume that you follow case 1, then you should be at least fine here. you have to focus on the ground distance to hub must always be greater than radius of wheel parallel to inclination of climb. (because imagine case 1, if your hub is no longer at the center, you will be lifting your self. in an inclined position. more difficult than lifting in a plane.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
Things turn even further in the favor of the ASW system if you factor in punctures, blowouts, tire fires and how long a truck has to be out of service each year while those monster tires get changed. ASW treads are bolt-on, bolt-off chunks that can be changed with very little gear, without even jacking any wheels up, and done in sections during shift changes and lunch breaks so the truck's never out of service due to tires. They can also ship much more cheaply, since the whole assembly can be broken down into bits that easily fit in a regular shipping container.
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As a comparison, consider the 1995 Corvette ZR-1, an ultra-high performance, 405 horsepower Corvette of which 527 units were sold. It came equipped with 17-inch wheels and tires. The front tires were 275/45R17s, meaning they were three-quarters of an inch thicker, had the same height sidewall, but were smaller than the Taurus by two inches in diameter.
There is a lot of research to show that ‘whole body vibration’ is associated with fatigue and lower back pain, increased spasticity (muscle contraction), and an increase in pressure sores and has an impact on bladder control.
Don’t blink. With eight extra inches of overall width, massive 35-inch tires and a menacing stance, TRX asserts itself as the most muscular truck to ever leave our factory.
My wheels are staggered, TSW Mugello 20" wheels, no spacers, and am running Toyo Proxes TS tires, 245-35z fronts and 285-30z rears. Not sure how they would be for an X. Hope the info helps! I think 20" on stock is just fine. The ability to adjust the height is the main reason to go with coilover? Well after reading all this I think I will go with the General G-MAX AS-03 245/35/20 at all four corners (since I have an X model) and the 20" Enkei's seen here. Should look good on my moonlight white. I plan to do this in spring so I'll post pics when it's done if anyone still cares at that point. Attached Thumbnails Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Top Honda-Tech - Honda Forum Discussion > Honda and Acura Model-Specific Technical Forums > Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion Hey guys, I have a little project i'm starting up with my EJ2 and I have a hard time figuring out which is better to come first wheels or springs. I have decided to go springs over a full coilover due to budget and I dont really plan on changing height afterwards and I also don't hit tracks. That being said which would be better coming first? The way I see it, lowering the suspension first gives me an idea of wheel sizes I can manage without scrubbing, but at the same time rims/tires offers the same results in a way (atleast how I see it). However, I could be very wrong so I am looking for some input on the better way to go about it. Again, keep in mind I am not getting full coilovers, I would consider coilover sleeves that fit over the strut but as previously stated i'm not really looking to constantly change ride height all the time. It's basically going to be a one and done type deal. Inputs would be greatly appreciated! Like Both are in decent shape, but im talking rims and tires not just tires. I'm trying to figure which way would be the best way to get a stance started.
Loopwheels fit most manual wheelchairs using standard quick release axles. Choose between 24″ and 25″ diameter wheels, with or without Schwalbe Marathon Plus pneumatic tyres. These wheels have a standard axle bearing diameter of ½” (12.7mm). If you need a 12mm axle bearing instead of ½” then please contact us.
According to Pearce, one of the advantages of Loopwheels is the fact that unlike a suspension fork, they can absorb shocks delivered not just from underneath or above but also from the front (as might happen when running into a curb head-on). He also admits that many other inventors have come up with designs for wheels with tangential suspension over the past hundred years or so, although he believes that today’s modern materials will allow his to work where others have proved impractical.
I bought a pair of loop wheels a couple a years ago, unless they have improved, i found they bend from side to side. After spending a lot of money on them, i returned to my spocked wheels. So far there is nothing to beat the spocked tried and most successful design. the best suspension i found is seat post suspension and front faulk suspension.
With Fat Tires And A Full Suspension, This Folding E-Bike Is Perfect For Off-Road Riding