You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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The primary purpose of a shock or strut is to keep the tire rolling flat on the ground when driving down the road. They are designed to provide stability in your vehicle suspension system. They play a vital role when it comes to vehicle performance, handling, braking, and wheel alignment. It is recommended that shocks and struts should be replaced every 50,000 miles.
That was a fantastic read. Thanks for sharing, I have already made a list of things I want to do with my car, granted not an interior list nor a 100% complete list, but as far as budget and small things (considering its just gonna be a mild modded DD) as the thread you linked calls it but I still got something out of it. Thanks again. Eventually i'm going to do a B-Swap but suspension work is a no brainer to get out of the way, atleast in my opinion OK..........so why are you asking us what should you do first if its a no brainer to you? Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. A good riding spring lowers the car about 1-2" maximum. Some suggestions would be eibach pro kits, h&r sports, or Tein S techs with koni STRT shocks. They'll work fine with 15x7 +40 or so. I'd use 205/50/15's. But you can also use the stock 195/55/15. If you buy the wheels/tires first, the car will look funny until you lower it.
There are two basic types of vehicle suspensions: independent and solid axel. The main difference between these two is that both right and left wheels attached to the same beam i.e. solid axle, while independent suspensions make provision for one wheel to go up or down without affecting the other wheel.
People out there lucky in the sense that they know how to ride a bike but unlucky in the sense that doing so jars their spines and brains and generates great discomfort in the crotchal region, say hello to Loopwheels. Loopwheels are 20" bicycle wheels with built-in spring systems between their hubs and wheel rims that provide suspension and cushioning from road bumps and potholes. So that everyone who finishes a Loopwheeled bike jaunt does so with lumbar vertabrae, tailbone, and rectum as intact as they were before the ride began.
What are the latest developments in the Velomobile world? We span the globe to bring you the first velo dealer in China, a tandem Quest velo going into production in France, the latest on the purported fastest velo called the Snoek, updates to the Milan, the DF4, in Romania, the WAW from Czechia and the Rotovelo from Australia. In addition, we bring you the news with Honza, and Jonathan Garcia has some exciting info from RANS, Performer USA and Metabike. We have a look at the new Cyclesight rear viewing safety system, Doug does a new “Bent Road Repairs” segment and Nina’s “Bicycle of the Future” feature returns with a twist.
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[Hot Item] Swivel sandwich casters, M59SP-4''/5'', Caster Wheels, China, Factory, Suppliers, Manufacturers
If the SoftWheel catches on in the way Barel thinks it will, Israel will become a world center of wheel technology and production. “Nearly all the materials we use to produce our wheels are made in Israel, and we are currently building a large production facility in northern Israel to build SoftWheels,” said Barel. “This, like our product, is an innovation as well, because not too many industrial products are made in Israel. All around we are developing a new paradigm, one we believe the world will embrace.”
Swing axles may be at the front or rear. The system is like a beam axle cut in half and attached to pivots on the frame.
Swivel sandwich casters Material: PP wheel bonded to elastic rubber Size:100mm x 32mm ; 125mm x 35mm Load:110kg,150kg Bearing: Roller Bearing Purpose:Shock resistant casters,Shock proof casters,Industry caster wheels,trolley casters
We also use cookies set by other sites to help us deliver content from their services. Accept additional cookies Reject additional cookies View cookies GOV.UK Navigation menu Menu Topics Topics Find information and services Departments Government activity Government activity Find out what the government is doing News Guidance and regulation Research and statistics Policy papers and consultation Transparency How government works Get involved Search GOV.UK Search GOV.UK Popular on GOV.UK Coronavirus (COVID-19): guidance Brexit: check what you need to do Sign in to your personal tax account Find a job Sign in to your Universal Credit account Coronavirus (COVID-19) Guidance and support Home Business and industry Charities and social enterprises Case study Loopwheels: delivering a smoother ride for wheelchair users
Sam believes passionately in craftsmanship and in the skills and knowledge that come from practical experience. He worked with a small local company, KG Archery, manufacturers of archery bows, on the development of the springs for loopwheels.