Tetragrip
Note: when sorting by date, 'descending order' will show the newest results first. Contains unread posts Contains no unread posts Hot thread with unread posts Hot thread with no unread posts Thread is closed You have posted in this thread You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On [VIDEO] code is On HTML code is Off -- Mirage Forum Desktop Style (full-featured) -- Mirage Forum Mobile Style Contact Us MirageForum.com - Mitsubishi Mirage / Space Star / Attrage / Dodge Attitude Forum and Owners Club Archive Top Threads Google Threads Posts Advanced View First Unread Thread Tools Search this Thread Log In | Register By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community > AcuraZine TL/TLX Community > Second Generation TL (1999-2003) > 2G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. i have already bought my rims, i havent put them on yet, should change my suspension first to like the look when its stock, or should i put my rims and change my suspension accordingly Reply Like how much you should lower the car depends on the rims. post some pics of the rims first. also depends on how much you drive in the snow, which i assume you do quite a bit living in canada. maybe some other members have some first hand experience of driving in the snow with a lowered car? I'd change suspension first, then wheels.... but to each their own... ultimately it's up to you. you should always drop first... then buy the rims to fit accordingly... also, putting rims on a stock height car (i know somebody will be butt hurt over this) yeah dont make the same mistake i did... i totally regret getting rims 1st =/ ok .. but if i change my suspension accordingly to my 16 inch stock rims, then put on 19'zz i think it depends on what your unique situation is. if there are rims you really like, buy them and work around it. plus, if your facing winter every year, you do not want to be dropped too much, you'll be sliding all over since you will have a lower center of gravity and have more of a grip demand on your tires. if you drop it three inches, now you need to stick with a really high offset, so that will limit your wheel choices. i think it works the same way no matter what you do-suspension first will limit your wheel options...wheels first will limit your suspension options. do you want to be scraping low with small wheels, or keep it practical with bigger wheels, it's your choice!! in my situation, i really wanted a certain wheel which happened to have a low offset, so i can't lower it too much. i am also up against winter in new england, and shitty roads. so i knew i wasn't lowering too much, i just want to close the wheel gap. so i got the wheels i wanted, which are 19x8 +40 w/ 235/35 tires, learned i have about 2" in the rear and 3" up front to work with, and from there purchased the eibach pro-system-plus which will give me exactly what i'm looking for...improved handling, very little gap in the wheel well, and a lower than stock stance....done & done!! buddy thanks a million, i think u just answered my question, i have the same width rims and tires. i was wondering how much room i might have in order to figure the suspension.
Wheel Chair Wheels
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
All wheel and tires come with a FULL manufacturers warranty, please ask if you have any questions regarding the warranty on a specific product and we will be happy to assist! Please note: Fitment Industries will cover the costs involved with warranty claims up to 30 days from date of delivery. After the 30 day period, the costs involved with the warranty claim are the customers responsibility. Please notify us as soon as possible if you have any issues, questions, or concerns! The Street Team is a group of individuals who represent Fitment Industries. You are an ambassador and use your influence to promote the brand while earning points to redeem for Gear, Wheels, Tires, Suspension, and other products. As part of the Fitment Industries Street Team, you have many opportunities to promote our name and be rewarded for it. You will receive a percentage back in points from each sale that has your name selected under the “Who Sent You” dropdown at checkout. These points can then be used on anything from Fitment Industries’ website. The more you promote, the more you get back to spend on more car parts! We are looking for key influencers in the “car scene” with a large following, or growing following, that can positively market and stand behind the products we offer. Having a big build or new build with a large enthusiast following is exactly what we are looking for! Posting and tagging regularly is also key for promoting and social media marketing. As a Street Team member you receive special promotions that most other customers do not get. Since Fitment Industries does not offer sponsorships, this is the best way to give back to the customer (that’s you!) and allow you to earn as many points as you can! The primary way to earn points is through people selecting your name under the “Who Sent You” dropdown at checkout. We will also provide you with a vanity URL. Use this link on your social media, and anyone who checks out via your link will have your name automatically selected at check out! You can also earn points by submitting quality content. If you recently had a photoshoot or video made and have the proper rights for publishing, you can submit that content! If it is approved, you will receive points for your HQ content and we will use it on our social media! There will be additional bi-weekly opportunities to earn points. In our Street Team emails we will have content attached that you can download. Post this to your page, submit your content link, and we will review that you posted the content we sent. You will accrue points that way as well once approved! You can submit your content by logging in to Your Account online and choosing your Ambassador Account homepage. Or click here, because that’s way faster. If your name is inactive under the “Who Sent You” dropdown, or have no content submissions for 90 days, your name will be removed from the Street Team program. You would then need to reapply if you wish to promote with us again. Lug nuts and lug bolts are two completely different things and the difference between the two is very important when it comes to buying an aftermarket option. Lug nuts get threaded onto existing lug nut studs and are typically found on Domestic and Japanese import cars. Lug bolts are very common with European cars and instead of a nut that threads to a lug stud, they are a complete bolt that threads into the hub of the vehicle. Yes, but only with bolt patterns. If further specifications are required we recommend using our gallery for reference or to reach out to someone. No, the driver should break the package down for you and assist with unloading.
.
Wheelchair Rim Grips
Yeti Packed SeriesWe take a deep dive into what YETI athletes pack for their adventures into the wild.
Loopwheels have developed a robust wheel with world-class suspension that works at higher speeds, for use with power attachments. The springs utilise hi-tech carbon composite materials and are available in 2 spring strengths (Regular and Stiff), which will allow customers to get the best comfort and health protection for their weight and the typical activities that they undertake. Weighing under 3lbs (1.36kg) per wheel, and removing much more vibration than any other brand of a wheel, it is the definitive wheel if you love travelling faster on tracks and off-road. Made in England Loopwheels are vibration reducing wheels. Integral suspension gives you a smoother ride.
Airnimal Bike
Wheelchair users would likely experience more ride comfort, as well as a vastly superior ability to negotiate uneven ground riding on Air Suspension Wheels
Sean ‘Steezy’ Bailey Nabs 3rd Ascent of 5.15d ‘Bibliographie' Route With 'Obsessive' Effort
