The suspension effect also makes it much easier for a wheelchair user to negotiate steep curbs, both nosing down and backing up, as the suspension effect takes much of the steepness out of the exercise.
There are a lot of good points that have been made in this thread. I think a big factor in your decision will be really the road conditions in your area. Lots of changes in slopes that cause you to bottom out would not be a good thing for a lowered vehicle. The cars I have seen here look quite good, mostly because they have either 19s or dubs on them. I'm having such a tough decision on whether or not I want to get a ZR or G coupe. Keep the pics coming...maybe it'll help persuade me one way or another.
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A pair of shock-absorbing wheels for wheelchairs with integral suspension, designed to help you go more comfortably over uneven streets, rough tracks, grass and gravel paths.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
"Loopwheels definitely reduce my pain when going over bumps, kerbs and cobbles . . . the addition of Loopwheels to my chair has made every trip out far more comfortable for me." My Account Frequently Asked Questions Our Warranty to our Customers Terms and Conditions Press Blog Shipping Information Stockists Jobs Distributors Support Loopwheel Fitting Guides Loopwheels Brochure Loopwheels Wheelchair Wheels For greater comfort and independence - so you can tackle any path ahead
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"My mobility has been hugely limited due to pain, and when I’m outdoors I’m reliant on my wheelchair. Potholes, cracks, cobbles: when you have chronic pain, you feel every tiny vibration like a knife. The Loopwheels took only a few seconds to fit and I immediately noticed a big difference. Loopwheels definitely reduce the pain of going over bumps, kerbs and cobbles . . . the addition of Loopwheels to my chair has made every trip out far more comfortable." Loopwheels Extreme The best vibration-reducing off-road wheelchair wheels.
[Hot Item] Spring loaded wheels, SA63SP-5''/6''/8'', Caster Wheels, China, Factory, Suppliers, Manufacturers
Instead of sharing a common axle, each wheel on a car with independent suspension is independently attached to the body or subframe. Different spring combinations may be used.
This looks dodgy. As per above – lateral stiffness? You have what looks like three contact points spot welded to the rim. I like my rims to stay somewhat connected to the hubs. These look like they have potential for rather catastrophic failure. Bob McNaughton on April 14th, 2013 - 11:06pm
Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, unless the item is handmade or was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag.
The Unistrut P2751N 4-Wheel Loop Trolley with Nylon Wheels is designed to have an easy attachment point to suspend and move equipment overhead. Clevis Material: 12g. Design Load: 20 lbs. Wheel bearings are stainless steel and should not be lubricated. More Information SKU P2751N-EG EAN 0786364275123 Lead time 14 14 Pack Size Each UOM EA UPC 786364275123 Brand Unistrut Finish Electro-Galvanized
In deep sand and mud conditions, TRX uses a 45/55 initial torque split and calibrates both throttle management and torque distribution to mitigate wheel slip and improve traction.
Clamps are designed to be used with W, M, S and HP Shape beams, Standard C and Miscellaneous MC Channels, Angles and Structural Tees. Clamps must be used in pairs mounted in opposite directions where indicated. For beam clamps with HG finish, standard hardware is EG finish. For optional stainless steel hardware, please contact the factory for availability. You're reviewing:P2751N EG Unistrut Loop Trolley w/ Nylon Wheels, Design Load 20 Lbs, EA / Box (25)
Traditional wheelchair spokes have been replaced with a design that integrates suspension for smoother passage over uneven surfaces.
Spring loaded wheels Wheel Material:Iron core,PU wheels Size:5" x 50mm ; 6" x 50mm ; 8” x 50mm Loading Capacity:280kg ~ 350kg Bearing Type:Dual Ball Bearing
There are three times when you should get your steering and suspension systems inspected. Every 50,000 miles (approximately 80,000 km). As part of your annual service or any time your car is in for routine service and the steering and suspension systems are accessible. When your tyres are replaced. When your brakes are serviced. When your oil and filters are changed.