Shop Wheelchair Wheels Accessories Try Before You Buy About Us About Us Our Brochure What Are Loopwheels? What is a Loopwheel How does it work? Engineering Loopwheels Guidance Our Customers Contact Us A vibration reducing wheel with integral suspension. Loopwheels minimise vibration, which can reduce fatigue and discomfort and give you a smoother ride.
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The Acrobat doesn't exactly "reinvent the wheel," as the cliche goes, but it does improve upon it. Eliane Rozanes, one of the Acrobat’s engineers, said it has a built-in symmetrical and selective suspension system. In layman's terms, that means it takes the bumps so you don't have to.
I might eventually drop it. You have remember though, the roadsters sit atleast a half inch lower than the coupes to begin with (stock). Here's mine on 19's. I'll probably cut down the spring seats to level it up a bit in the rear. Use a slightly taller tire. That helps alot. Mine are 275/35/19 and 285/35/19 and I love the way it looks on the stock suspension. Last edited by Firehawk; 02-26-2007 at 03:34 AM. with my roadster, i went from Eibach, to Hotchkis, and now waiting for Tein Htech to come in. I think Htech will be the perfect drop for me, LOL Even with 35 sidewall tires, the gap in stock suspension is horrible. There are a lot of good points that have been made in this thread. I think a big factor in your decision will be really the road conditions in your area. Lots of changes in slopes that cause you to bottom out would not be a good thing for a lowered vehicle. The cars I have seen here look quite good, mostly because they have either 19s or dubs on them.
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- The suspension blocks are just over two blocks in length, making proper 1-1 alignment with the rails impossible. Their models also stick out in other places making clipping an issue.
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I might eventually drop it. You have remember though, the roadsters sit atleast a half inch lower than the coupes to begin with (stock).
After coming up with the design for the loopwheel, he and wife Gemma realised that it was a risky venture and they would need to prove the product worked and manufacture it themselves to get it to market.
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Air Suspension Wheels: tread can either be fitted as sections of road-grooved rubber, or as bolt-on blocks for offroad use like this View gallery - 9 images
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Loopwheels are optimised for adults. If you weigh less than 50kg, you won’t feel as much benefit from the suspension as someone heavier.
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This tri-shock wheel concept could, conceivably, make singletrack and downhill even less jarring. But with every bump that’s softened, there’s a little more energy that’s drained from the ride itself.
Both modeling and experimental results demonstrate several realistic scenarios in which wheel hubs experience accelerations greater than 100g, sometimes at very low vehicle speeds. This paper focuses on the experimental determination of suitable design goals for in-hub motors (wheel motors), describing the experimental test rig, experiment procedures, and experimental results from testing conducted at UT-CEM. The paper also discusses implications of these results on wheel motor design, leading to the conclusion that a realizable and feasible design goal for a combat vehicle wheel motor shock rating is 150 g's, with a 10 to 20 ms pulse width.
Loopwheels are currently available in a 20-inch size for bikes and a larger size for wheelchairs. They are working on 26- and 29-inch wheels for bicycles. They are currently available as a retrofit for Dahon or Tern foldingbikes and have a 100mm front fork for the changeover. The wheels themselves cost $462 US while a Loopwheels folding bike will set you back $1,493.
The spring configuration allows the torque to be transferred smoothly between the hub and the rim
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buddy,i feel u on that one, i have the lipkit in my garage waiting to be sanded, painted and installed .. and the rims .. and it was just snowing over the weekend does anyone have any pictures of a tl lowered on the stock wheels? i've look around (still lookin) but can't find more than one pic. suspension. if you get wheels first you'll look really stupid with 4x4 status lol.
In the end, their method worked. Project e-tron now sits about 30mm lower than it did when it was delivered at the dealership. Effectively, every setting in the range is now 30mm lower, with the allroad setting being roughly equivalent to the previous comfort setting.
For the commuter, or indeed for the rider that values comfort rather than speed (but still wants to put in a lick of pace when needed) then this really does tick all the boxes.
Speaking with Gemma and Sam, the brains behind Loopwheels it is clear that you are speaking to a pair of very passionate people.
A Loopwheel is a wheel with integral suspension, designed for better shock-absorbing performance and greater comfort. Loopwheels give you a smoother ride. They are more comfortable than standard wheels: the carbon springs absorb tiring vibration, as well as bumps and shocks. They’re extremely strong and durable.
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Annual or bi-annual inspections of your steering and suspension systems should include: Inspecting your shocks for leaks, cracks or other damage; Looking for vehicle bounce, nose dives, squats or rolls; Spinning the tyres manually to see if there is any wobble, imbalance or uneven tyre wear; Checking for leakage from any of the steering components; Ensuring the tension in the power steering pump belt is correct; Bouncing the car to see if your shocks or struts are functioning correctly. Who should inspect your steering and suspension systems?
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Ron Thompson is a retired mechanical engineer. He’s built a 2 wheeled bent he believes is the 4th major breakthrough in bicycle design. That’s a lofty assessment but you owe it to yourself to hear him out. The ability to recruit supplemental hand power on a recumbent bike is the intriguing innovation he’ll discuss with us today.
Loopwheels are optimised for adults. If you weigh less than 50kg, you won’t feel as much benefit from the suspension as someone heavier.
If it offers a lot of suspension travel than it has potential, but if it’s only a little bit, then one has to wonder why they didn’t just upsize the tire and lower the pressure a bit. stodr on April 14th, 2013 - 3:15pm
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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The constant rumble and vibration from bumpy roads is tiring and can cause you problems. Loopwheels reduce vibration on average 65% compared to a traditional spoked wheels.
REINVENTING THE WHEEL FOR A SMOOTHER RIDE A vibration reducing wheel with integral suspension. Loopwheels minimise vibration, reduce fatigue and pain and give you a smoother ride - allowing you to travel further and longer. For greater comfort and independence Loopwheels are designed to help you push over uneven streets, cobbles, grass, rough tracks and gravel paths, with less effort. The composite springs give you extra power to get up or down curbs. Loopwheels replacement wheelchair wheels are more comfortable than standard wheels: they absorb tiring vibration, as well as bumps and shocks. They naturally adjust for uneven camber – the slope on the side of a road. We reinvented the wheel, so you can tackle any path ahead. Is Discontinued By Manufacturer : No Package Dimensions : 28 x 28 x 7 inches Date First Available : October 25, 2018 Manufacturer : Loopwheels ASIN : B07JNZRRKX Best Sellers Rank: #2,394,102 in Health & Household (See Top 100 in Health & Household) #423 in Wheelchair & Mobility Scooter Tires & Wheels
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Double wishbones are used mostly at the front. There are two wishbones, one above the other, to keep the wheel upright as it rises and falls.
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