A pair of shock-absorbing wheels for wheelchairs with integral suspension, designed to help you go more comfortably over uneven streets, rough tracks, grass and gravel paths.
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@ Reason: We will update the pricing which we took from a catalog in 2009. The price advantage is still significant, if it was only because of changing over a consumable into a capital asset that can be amortized. Besides, only the treads need to be replaced at a fraction of the cost of a rubber tire. Investment, yes, value for money, certainly.
Swivel shock absorbing casters Wheel Material:Cast Iron core,PU wheels Size:Ø152 x 50mm ; Ø200 x 50mm Loading Capacity:260kg ~ 300kg Bearing Type: Double Ball Bearing
Hojun Lee’s design won an award at the international design competition, K-Design. Lee currently attends the Seoul National University of Science and Technology in South Korea.
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When Israeli farmer and entrepreneur Gilad Wolf broke his leg several years ago, being in a wheelchair didn’t stop him from venturing out to his fields and checking on crops.
This tri-shock wheel concept could, conceivably, make singletrack and downhill even less jarring. But with every bump that’s softened, there’s a little more energy that’s drained from the ride itself.
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Swing axles may be at the front or rear. The system is like a beam axle cut in half and attached to pivots on the frame.
That first grant helped us to develop our first loopwheel for wheelchairs. Getting the support from Innovate UK was crucial to us. We should have applied for R&D support earlier, it would have helped us to get a lot further a lot faster.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
We do offer free install if the wheels and tires are purchased at our Appleton, WI store. This is only offered with pick-up at this location. Contact and purchase from our store directly for this option OffsetsGarage.com. Absolutely. If you check out Fitment Industries on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, Twitter, Vimeo, or simply Google our name - you will see we have been around for a few years and have been providing customers with their wheels/tires, suspension, lighting, spacers and more...to their doorstep by the thousands every MONTH! Fitment Industries not only has the best prices in the market, we also have one of the highest review ratings in the industry. Sales tax will apply to all orders being delivered to, or picked up in the following states: IL, NE, ME, TN, VA, NM, AR, ID, WV, WY, VT, UT, RI, HI, MS, IA, NV, CA, PA, CT, WI, SD, KY, WA, OH, ND, NC, MA, AZ, KS, TX, AL, CO, GA, IN, MD, MI, MN, NJ, NY and SC and OK. Please note that if you’re an international customer your government may charge duties/taxes when the product arrives. Fitment Inc does not pay for these additional taxes and fees and the customer is responsible to do the research and understand these fees, we do not have the resources to quote these additional costs.
Technical ArticlesRear Wheel Drive Suspension OverviewRear Wheel Drive Suspension Overview Cameron from IPD goes thru the suspension components of rear wheel drive model Volvos and explains the basic setup and identifies the primary parts. "All right Cameron from here and today we're going to talk about some of the basics of suspension on a rear-wheel drive Volvo what the main components are where they are and what you should look out for. Here on the lift today we have a Volvo 242 so we'll talk about the main components on the front of it. First a lot of this is very much the same as you'll find on a Volvo 740 or a Volvo 940. As far as the front strut assemblies going and what the basic components are, even though they look a little different in those cars this should still give you a good idea of kind of where everything is and what it does. Looking also right here what you'll see is this, this is the sway bar end link bolts here to the control arm. This goes up and attach this to the sway bar right here which then goes across. Sway bars up you should be pretty familiar with on your car because it's IPD's flagship product and we've got huge upgrades for these that make the car handle ten times better and make it a whole new car. That's kind about it for the front it's a pretty basic suspension system there's just the control arm, ball joint, strut assembly, sway bar, and end link and the associated small pieces like control arm bushings that are here and here. Looking from the other side of the rear end of the car to show you some of the other components. We've just got a couple more pieces that complete the rear suspension system. This one is obviously the coil spring it is mounted on the back of the trailing arm here. If we follow that up we're going to see what is called the Panhard bar what its job basically is to locate the car over the rear axle. If you watch it here it bolts through the chassis of the car follow it down this way and it connects to a bracket on this side on the actual rear end. So, it's what is suspending it left to right and holding the car balancing it left to right over the rear end of the car. That's about it for the suspension very simple setup on these Volvo 740s and Volvo 940s are a little bit different but the basics are pretty much the same they use the same kind of components and hopefully, this helps you identify what's under your car you know what you're looking at any education is always going to help you maintain your car better. My Account My Garage My Orders Account Details Sign Off Shopping Products Privacy Policy Terms & Conditions Returns & Warranty F A Q Company About Us Contact Us Careers Blog Tech Tips Engage Classifieds Project Cars iPd Employees Community Links IPD Volvo Forums Volvo Club of America IPD is the Volvo Parts, Accessories and Performance Specialists Since 1963.