Good news; the Loopwheels are already well above their Kickstarter target with 13 days still to go! They've also contacted us to say they'll be attending Naidex so we can hopefully see them then. © 2021 Created by Gordon White. Powered by Badges | Report an Issue | Terms of Service
Your browser is trying to launch Autodesk Fusion 360. If the application is not installed on this machine, please download and install Fusion 360.
.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
Loopwheels fit most manual wheelchairs using standard quick release axles. Choose between 24″ and 25″ diameter wheels, with or without Schwalbe Marathon Plus pneumatic tyres. These wheels have a standard axle bearing diameter of ½” (12.7mm). If you need a 12mm axle bearing instead of ½” then please contact us.
"I have used my Loopwheels since they were first launched, I’ve tried them all, but NOTHING compares with these Loopwheels, after a month or so I had no more back pain, 75% less marks..."
Wheels Brakes and Clamps Front Castor Wheels Handrims Rear Wheels Spoke Guards Spokes Tyres and Inner Tubes
Loopwheels give you a smoother ride. They are more comfortable than standard wheels: the carbon springs absorb tiring vibration, as well as bumps and shocks. They’re designed for everyday use and are strong and durable.
Hot Sauce of the Month ClubThe AwesomerFree Stock Portfolio TrackerOnly Choose Three
The Aftermarket Group Wheelchair Tire, Low Profile Urethane Foam, Pyramid Shape, Grey, 24" x 1", TAG141001
[Hot Item] Stainless steel spring loaded casters wheels, SA68SP-3''/4''/5'', Caster Wheels, China, Factory, Suppliers, Manufacturers
With Fat Tires And A Full Suspension, This Folding E-Bike Is Perfect For Off-Road Riding
The big limitation that I can see, is that if there is any deflection when the rider gets on the bike, that means that the rider is essentially pedaling uphill all the time (Because he has to compress the springs as he moves forward). The other problem is that unless the springs are precisely calibrated to the riders weight this will really destroy the rolling efficiency of the bicycle. Malcolm Jacks May 23, 2020 03:09 AM
Go where you’ve never thought possible with The Acrobat’sTM unique In-Wheel SuspensionTM. The Acrobat’sTM suspension arms absorb more impact than traditionaly suspended wheels. The shocks remain perfectly rigid over flat terrain, yet offer unparalleled cushioning to on bumpy pavement or off-road, to go up or down curbs and travel further.
Sales or use tax is due on certain purchases delivered or sourced to Washington. Washington requires you to file a use tax return when sales tax is not paid at the time of purchase. This message is required under the Revised Code of Washington 82.13.020(2)(a)(i). Always contact us with any issues or return questions, we will always work with a customer, however, understand that most of our items require quite a bit of work to get them to you and we must recover these costs, unless the mistake is ours. Please use the contact us form to submit any questions!
Without a suspension system, the car’s wheels would hit a bump and move up and down perpendicular to the road surface. This vertical energy would be transferred to the car’s frame, which would pull the wheels away from the road before gravity takes over and slams the car down. The suspension system must be finely tuned using a combination of springs and shock absorbers to reduce these effects for a comfortable and smooth ride.
Trike Asylum archival and resource material for human powered recumbent tricycles
It’s not often I get a chance to review articles of clothing, but when someone sent me an email, talking about how good a pair of shorts were, to the point that both he and his wife have bought more than two pairs for each, I decided to take a look. I’m talking about the “Uprising” from a company called elevenpine. Read More » The Ultimate ICE Sprint X Tour Posted on August 31, 2020 by Larry Varney