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Sam believes passionately in craftsmanship and in the skills and knowledge that come from practical experience. He worked with a small local company, KG Archery, manufacturers of archery bows, on the development of the springs for loopwheels.
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Loopwheels are an innovative approach to wheelchair suspension and shock absorption.
My wheels are staggered, TSW Mugello 20" wheels, no spacers, and am running Toyo Proxes TS tires, 245-35z fronts and 285-30z rears. Not sure how they would be for an X. Hope the info helps! I think 20" on stock is just fine. The ability to adjust the height is the main reason to go with coilover? Well after reading all this I think I will go with the General G-MAX AS-03 245/35/20 at all four corners (since I have an X model) and the 20" Enkei's seen here. Should look good on my moonlight white. I plan to do this in spring so I'll post pics when it's done if anyone still cares at that point. Attached Thumbnails Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Top Honda-Tech - Honda Forum Discussion > Honda and Acura Model-Specific Technical Forums > Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion Hey guys, I have a little project i'm starting up with my EJ2 and I have a hard time figuring out which is better to come first wheels or springs. I have decided to go springs over a full coilover due to budget and I dont really plan on changing height afterwards and I also don't hit tracks. That being said which would be better coming first? The way I see it, lowering the suspension first gives me an idea of wheel sizes I can manage without scrubbing, but at the same time rims/tires offers the same results in a way (atleast how I see it). However, I could be very wrong so I am looking for some input on the better way to go about it. Again, keep in mind I am not getting full coilovers, I would consider coilover sleeves that fit over the strut but as previously stated i'm not really looking to constantly change ride height all the time. It's basically going to be a one and done type deal. Inputs would be greatly appreciated! Like Both are in decent shape, but im talking rims and tires not just tires. I'm trying to figure which way would be the best way to get a stance started.
Become a Partner Community Join our community Sign in About The Times of Israel Advertise on The Times of Israel Contact us 5,000 years later, the wheel gets an Israeli update With a flexible shock absorption system built into the wheel itself, SoftWheel boosts stability without sacrificing speed — in wheelchairs, bikes, cars, even planes By David Shamah 11 May 2014, 4:24 pm Edit Facebook Twitter linkedin email Print
Don’t blink. With eight extra inches of overall width, massive 35-inch tires and a menacing stance, TRX asserts itself as the most muscular truck to ever leave our factory.
on flat ground due to the hub always being nearer the ground than the top of the wheel, all three “loops” have to flex and return for each revolution of the wheel, meaning it would be like going up a gentle hill all the time (work wise)? (unlike conventional suspension that will flex due to riders weight and stop regardless of revolutions.
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I started to remove the bike and it came out easily. I began removing the padding and cutting zip ties. Everything looked great although I was a bit concerned as there were no instructions included. Upon further unpacking, I could easily see there were minor steps to assembly which became self explanatory. I screwed in the right peddle and a small bearing fell into my hand. I called the number on the bike and explained the situation. In under 10 mins, a new peddle was on its way free of charge. I completed the assembly and took it for a test drive. The bike felt solid and drove like a champ! This is going to be a fun bike to use on the trails!! Bike arrived yesterday, so I put it together last night, and attempted to ride it. The gears don't change properly, and the chain constantly runs on the chain guard. Tries to adjust the gears, but to no avail. I got it close but either the chain runs while pedalling l, or the gears don't move to the next sprocket when the trigger is pulled... I'm going to try again tonight after work, bit I'd like to talk to the seller a out this issue.... a brand new bike out of the box should change gears.... I think.
looking to get the same size and offset wheel and tires for stock Si (not planning to lower), will it work without rolling fenders? looking to get the same size and offset wheel and tires for stock Si (not planning to lower), will it work without rolling fenders? I think so. The minor hand pull I did front and rear was only for aesthetics. The rear wheels definitely gain a lot of neg camber when compressed so shouldn't be an issue there and the front should be fine as well. What you may want to take into account is the "rim protector" on certain tires is fairly aggressive on some (Continental Extreme Contact Sport) but not existent on others (Hankook V12 Evo2). If any amount of poke bothers you, then try to look at pictures of wheels and look for that. But I would again say that is more for aesthetics. But I would prob look into removing the locating pin on the upper strut mount up front first and adding in that little bit of neg camber for more clearance first.
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They’ve also developed a more bullet-proof wheelset with 25mm of shock travel called Fluent B designed for urban bike share programs. It includes a dynamo front and an internally geared rear hub. Lastly, the Fluent E is an e-bike version with 40mm of stroke and an integrated proprietary rear hub motor.
I don’t think it would affect the brake track. The wheel would flex on the bottom but would return to original shape and diameter when it rolled far enough to not be in contact with the ground. If it did not return to original shape or size after the flex the ride would be really crappy. iperov on April 14th, 2013 - 3:40pm Ck on April 14th, 2013 - 3:46pm comrade on April 14th, 2013 - 4:14pm seramik on April 14th, 2013 - 4:50pm MMyers on April 14th, 2013 - 5:39pm
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suspension...then rims...n +40 isnt that low of an offset...anways low offset or not u can always get a camber kit n make them fit... n if u wana do it rite the 1st time...get coilovers...dont get springs...every1 who gets springs eventually get coilovers...thats bout $350 wasted rite there... i had my wheels for about a year before i had the suspension and i kept it off the car because i knew it would look terrible without the drop.