First truck-only brand ever to win #1 in overall in initial quality according to J.D. Power.
Bold, beautiful and precision-engineered to last. The iconic in-wheel shock absorbers offer a truly unique style. Whether made from aluminum, magnesium or carbon fiber, SoftWheels are guaranteed to turn heads day or night.
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TRX awaits your command. Create a tailored driving experience by dialing in your preferred steering feel, torque split, suspension firmness and more.
Making shock-absorbing wheels for bikes, trikes and wheelchairs, to help you go more places, more comfortably and more easily.
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Yeah, I think that’s definitely a neat idea. Depends on how well it works, though. And how much it weighs. And how much it costs.
Loopwheels launched their journey into production off the back of two highly successful Kickstarter campaigns in 2013 & 2015 where the response from the community was astounding. The brand has since expanded worldwide and now distributes products to over 20 countries.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
A Loopwheel is a wheel with integral suspension, designed to reduce vibration and increase performance and provide greater comfort.
buddy,i feel u on that one, i have the lipkit in my garage waiting to be sanded, painted and installed .. and the rims .. and it was just snowing over the weekend does anyone have any pictures of a tl lowered on the stock wheels? i've look around (still lookin) but can't find more than one pic. suspension. if you get wheels first you'll look really stupid with 4x4 status lol.
There are three times when you should get your steering and suspension systems inspected. Every 50,000 miles (approximately 80,000 km). As part of your annual service or any time your car is in for routine service and the steering and suspension systems are accessible. When your tyres are replaced. When your brakes are serviced. When your oil and filters are changed.
The all-new available HUD serves as your virtual cockpit, projecting an array of customizable information on the windshield.
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They deliver such a smooth ride it is like my world has suddenly become a much flatter place!
With standard quick release axles, a choice between 12mm or .5 inch bearings and available in 24" and 25" sizes, Loopwheels fit most manual wheelchairs.