You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
Outside the pivots the bar bends back and one end is attached to each wheel, usually through one or two flexible rubber bushes.
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The front wheels must be free to pivot on their steering swivels. The driven wheels, whether front or rear, must also be free to rotate with the drive shafts .
Spring loaded swivel casters Wheel Material:PP core,PU wheels Size:Ø152 x 50mm ; Ø203 x 50mm Loading Capacity:260kg ~ 300kg Bearing Type: Double Ball Bearing
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So what's the alternative? Better keep your large-diameter, low-profile alloy wheel and tire set for the summer months, when the frost heaves have quit poking Buick-sized boulders through the road surface. From late October to the first of May, consider investing in a winter wheel and tire package, including steel wheels in a slightly smaller diameter than the 19-inchers that may come on your car.
Ready to start poppin' wheelies like a G6? This Indoor Wheelie Trainer - OK, technically DIY Indoor Wheelie Trainer - from The Q fuses a cycling trainer, some wood, and a tie-down strap into a lean, mean trick-teachin'...
Stainless steel spring shock absorber casters Material: PP core with TPR wheel Suspension Mount: SUS 304 Wheel Size:Ø75 x 32mm,Ø100 x 32mm,Ø125 x 32mm Load:70kg,100kg,120kg Bearing: Ball Bearing
Thats another issue im going to have is picking a tire size, do you think 1.5 is enough to be flush? It seems my fender gap is more prominent in the front and the back is slightly lower, could be my worn out springs showing. Also if you could recommend a tire that would go well with a 1.5 lowering (if thats enough) to go over 15X7s
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They deliver such a smooth ride it is like my world has suddenly become a much flatter place!
Fittings, unless noted, are made from hot-rolled, pickled and oiled steel plates, bar, strip or coil, and conform to one or more of the following specifications: ASTM specifications A575, A576, A635, A1011 SS GR 33, A1011 HSLAS GR 45 or A36. All fittings meet or exceed physical properties of ASTM A1011 GR 33. The pickling of the steel produces a smooth surface free from scale. Many fittings are also available in stainless steel, aluminum and fiberglass. Consult factory for ordering information. Green Powder Coat (GR), conforming to commercial standards for Powder Coating Electro-galvanized (EG), conforming to ASTM B633 Type III SC1 Hot-dipped galvanized (HG), conforming to ASTM A123 or A153 Plain (PL) Unistrut Defender (DF), conforming to ASTM A1059 or A1046
Loopwheels are designed with suspension within the wheel itself: in place of rigid spokes, they have three loop-shaped springs.
Maybe I’m wrong but wouldn’t the wheel react differently every time you hit the same obstacle depending on how the shocks are pointed? Bartthebikeman on May 20th, 2016 - 2:58pm
Wheels Brakes and Clamps Front Castor Wheels Handrims Rear Wheels Spoke Guards Spokes Tyres and Inner Tubes
This active suspension preserves more of the forward motion energy that would normally be lost as the suspension allows the wheelchair to bob and sag. It also allows the wheelchair to ride over curbs and bumps that might have stopped traditional wheelchairs, giving users better access to places where ramps haven’t yet been installed.
That was a fantastic read. Thanks for sharing, I have already made a list of things I want to do with my car, granted not an interior list nor a 100% complete list, but as far as budget and small things (considering its just gonna be a mild modded DD) as the thread you linked calls it but I still got something out of it. Thanks again. Eventually i'm going to do a B-Swap but suspension work is a no brainer to get out of the way, atleast in my opinion OK..........so why are you asking us what should you do first if its a no brainer to you? Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. A good riding spring lowers the car about 1-2" maximum. Some suggestions would be eibach pro kits, h&r sports, or Tein S techs with koni STRT shocks. They'll work fine with 15x7 +40 or so. I'd use 205/50/15's. But you can also use the stock 195/55/15. If you buy the wheels/tires first, the car will look funny until you lower it.