Spring shock absorbing casters Wheel Material:PP core,PU wheels Size:Ø152 x 50mm ; Ø203 x 50mm Loading Capacity:260kg ~ 300kg Bearing Type: Double Ball Bearing
These wheels have a standard axle bearing diameter of ½” (12.7mm), but are not supplied with axles. Buy axles separately here if needed. If you need a 12mm axle bearing instead of ½” then please contact us.
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Kerbs are less of an obstacle with loopwheels. Loopwheels reduce jolting, soften the impact of landing, and so can help manage pain. Over 95% of the customers rate Loopwheels as high or very high quality Over 85% of the users felt positive about Loopwheels after using them for 2 weeks Over 80% of our customers said they’d chosen Loopwheels to reduce the amount of vibration they experienced in their wheelchair
Loopwheel springs are made from a carbon composite material, carefully developed and tested to give optimum compression and lateral stability as well as strength and durability. Specially-designed connectors attach the springs to the hub and rim. The three loops in each wheel work together as a self-correcting system. This spring system between the hub and the rim of the wheel provides suspension that constantly adjusts to uneven terrain – cushioning the rider from bumps and potholes in the road. In effect, the hub floats within the rim, adjusting constantly as shocks from an uneven road hit the rim of the wheel. The spring configuration allows the torque to be transferred smoothly between the hub and the rim.
Are there drawbacks? Yes. In the lowest suspension settings, mainly efficiency and dynamic, the ride is bouncy. On a very smooth highway, these lower settings handle very well. However, on more imperfect pavement, you’ll want to move to a higher setting. We find ourselves using comfort the most. To our eye, it’s just below the factory-height dynamic setting, low and sporting but with much less pronounced rebound.
Drive Medical Blue Streak Ultra-Lightweight Wheelchair With Flip-Backs Arms & Swing-Away Footrests
Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, unless the item is handmade or was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag.
Gary: I agree in principal - and I believe, as usual that forum members are all trying to say the same thing. Which is that 1) when we know our equipment and 2) the circumstance is favorable then there should be no problems. However, OP, an admitted newbie, did not tell us the year and model of his Thor (I may have missed it), nor the type of jack nor the degree of slope he could be considering - so, to err on the side of safety when advising someone that is NOT familiar with his equipment I think our answer should be a conservative and collective NO - don't go off the ground for the drive axle (brakes). As always, disagree or agree the forum group is constantly trying to help others to stay safe and enjoy this wonderful way of life (for some) and pastime (for others). The shocks will limit how much the front air bags can extend, whether or not it damages the front shocks is a different topic. As a general rule MH's with solid front axles state in the owners manual NOT to lift front wheels off the ground. I've never read of IFS MH's having such a statement. 2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA." My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) Thread Tools Search this Thread Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post On-off on off on off off off rear view camera Bahcml Newmar Owner's Forum 5 08-12-2019 10:44 PM Lifting wheels off ground when leveling Geneandea Just Conversation 9 11-10-2015 08:35 AM Can you over extend the air bags...by raising the front wheels off the ground StansCustoms Alpine Coach Owner's Forum 27 12-02-2010 02:05 PM Jacks raise wheels off ground, good or not? jab862 Fleetwood Owner's Forum 11 08-24-2009 06:40 AM lifting front tires off the ground with leveling jacks George Cayer MH-General Discussions & Problems 14 02-09-2005 06:53 PM Contact Us - Home - Archive - RVLife - Community Rules - Terms of Service - Privacy - Accessibility - Top Home Discovery Queue Wishlist Points Shop News Stats © Valve Corporation. All rights reserved. All trademarks are property of their respective owners in the US and other countries. #footer_privacy_policy | #footer_legal | #footer_ssa | #footer_refunds All Discussions Screenshots Artwork Broadcasts Videos Workshop News Guides Reviews All Discussions Screenshots Artwork Broadcasts Videos Workshop News Guides Reviews Space Engineers > General Discussions > Topic Details I spent a few hours last night working on this, but so far I can only get wheels to roll if they're attached to a suspension system. Am I missing something here? That seems like a pretty big failing, as there are plenty of reasons to need wheels in a fixed position.
That's perfect size, go with stock 235/40/18 or 245/40/18 will work too if you want more tire width. You can swap over the stock tires if they're the same size. I'm new here so want to ask all you all help me out really quick. I'm just wondering will this rim be okay to set up with my Hatchback Sport and what size of tire should I get with stock suspension? First Name Steve Joined Mar 10, 2018 Messages 265 Reaction score 65 Location Canada Car(s) '18 Civic EX-T
it's not THAT low, but it's low...lower than recommended by this site and every wheel shop. some go as far to say that they just won't work!!
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I suspect that many of us have had problems when it comes to carrying “stuff” on our bikes and trikes. You may want to keep it simple – just a pair of bags that are connected by straps that lay across your seat. Or, you say that you already have some panniers, but either you can’t find a rear rack that will work on your bike or trike, or the ones you find are either too expensive, or maybe they won’t work with suspension. You may be on the edge of throwing up your hands in despair, and just stuffing things into your pockets. Don’t give up hope – I’ve got some possible solutions for you! Read More » Uprising Shorts from Elevenpine Posted on September 25, 2020 by Larry Varney
In addition to any of the points mentioned above, it is recommended that you (or your mechanic) visually inspect your steering and suspension systems if you notice any of the following symptoms:
Ron Thompson is a retired mechanical engineer. He’s built a 2 wheeled bent he believes is the 4th major breakthrough in bicycle design. That’s a lofty assessment but you owe it to yourself to hear him out. The ability to recruit supplemental hand power on a recumbent bike is the intriguing innovation he’ll discuss with us today.
A dead axle - a rigid beam - is now used at the front on vans and trucks only. Some front-wheel-drive cars have a dead rear axle. A double-wishbone suspension. Wishbones are fitted at their outer ends to the top and bottom of the steering swivel member. The two forks of each wishbone extend inward to pivot on the frame. A tie rod - a steadying bar - is connected between the frame and the lower wishbone.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...