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Note: when sorting by date, 'descending order' will show the newest results first. Contains unread posts Contains no unread posts Hot thread with unread posts Hot thread with no unread posts Thread is closed You have posted in this thread You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On [VIDEO] code is On HTML code is Off -- Mirage Forum Desktop Style (full-featured) -- Mirage Forum Mobile Style Contact Us MirageForum.com - Mitsubishi Mirage / Space Star / Attrage / Dodge Attitude Forum and Owners Club Archive Top Threads Google Threads Posts Advanced View First Unread Thread Tools Search this Thread Log In | Register By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community > AcuraZine TL/TLX Community > Second Generation TL (1999-2003) > 2G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. i have already bought my rims, i havent put them on yet, should change my suspension first to like the look when its stock, or should i put my rims and change my suspension accordingly Reply Like how much you should lower the car depends on the rims. post some pics of the rims first. also depends on how much you drive in the snow, which i assume you do quite a bit living in canada. maybe some other members have some first hand experience of driving in the snow with a lowered car? I'd change suspension first, then wheels.... but to each their own... ultimately it's up to you. you should always drop first... then buy the rims to fit accordingly... also, putting rims on a stock height car (i know somebody will be butt hurt over this) yeah dont make the same mistake i did... i totally regret getting rims 1st =/ ok .. but if i change my suspension accordingly to my 16 inch stock rims, then put on 19'zz i think it depends on what your unique situation is. if there are rims you really like, buy them and work around it. plus, if your facing winter every year, you do not want to be dropped too much, you'll be sliding all over since you will have a lower center of gravity and have more of a grip demand on your tires. if you drop it three inches, now you need to stick with a really high offset, so that will limit your wheel choices. i think it works the same way no matter what you do-suspension first will limit your wheel options...wheels first will limit your suspension options. do you want to be scraping low with small wheels, or keep it practical with bigger wheels, it's your choice!! in my situation, i really wanted a certain wheel which happened to have a low offset, so i can't lower it too much. i am also up against winter in new england, and shitty roads. so i knew i wasn't lowering too much, i just want to close the wheel gap. so i got the wheels i wanted, which are 19x8 +40 w/ 235/35 tires, learned i have about 2" in the rear and 3" up front to work with, and from there purchased the eibach pro-system-plus which will give me exactly what i'm looking for...improved handling, very little gap in the wheel well, and a lower than stock stance....done & done!! buddy thanks a million, i think u just answered my question, i have the same width rims and tires. i was wondering how much room i might have in order to figure the suspension.
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You will find the serial no. on a label at the lower cross bar. It writes xxx-xxxxxx.
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The Recumbent Cycle-Con has been rescheduled for October 7, 8-9, 2002, at The Montgomery County Fairgrounds in Dayton, Ohio!. As always, you’ll get the chance to see the newest recumbent bikes, trikes, and tandems, as well as ride all the new models on our Outdoor Demo Riding Arena. The Recumbent Cycle-Con is part of Cycle-Con Weekend, which include the Adaptive Cycling Expo, Bicycle Tour & Travel Expo, and the Electric Cycle-Con.
I played with the idea using steel springs in wagon wheels for a Ring of Fire series fanfic (I highly recommend the books if you like time travel stories) but I am not convinced that loopwheels are a better solution than a springy seat post. Michael Lau April 18, 2013 02:48 AM Frank van Schie April 18, 2013 06:31 AM
A dead axle - a rigid beam - is now used at the front on vans and trucks only. Some front-wheel-drive cars have a dead rear axle. A double-wishbone suspension. Wishbones are fitted at their outer ends to the top and bottom of the steering swivel member. The two forks of each wishbone extend inward to pivot on the frame. A tie rod - a steadying bar - is connected between the frame and the lower wishbone.
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If you don't mind...what are the full specs of your wheels/tires? I'm just wondering because I have the X model and I know the widths and everything will be slightly different and no staggering for me. I think your setup looks great considering no drop, but I don't know how it would compare to an X model with no staggering or spacers etc.
Love them? We’ll help you select your brand new pair of Loopwheels for you to keep, and arrange the collection of your trial wheels. You can pay for your wheels in full or via monthly instalments.
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Loopwheels reduce vibrations by up to 70% compared with metal spoked wheels. Our innovative Loopwheel technology now comes with 12% extra hi tech carbon.
The Loopwheels will go on sale in September for £600, and their inventor claims they can make riding on a bumpy road 'like riding on velvet' 44 year old Nottingham mechanical engineer Sam Pearce told MailOnline he came up with idea while watching a mother try and push a child in a buggy up a kerb.
The all-new available HUD serves as your virtual cockpit, projecting an array of customizable information on the windshield.