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Note: when sorting by date, 'descending order' will show the newest results first. Contains unread posts Contains no unread posts Hot thread with unread posts Hot thread with no unread posts Thread is closed You have posted in this thread You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On [VIDEO] code is On HTML code is Off -- Mirage Forum Desktop Style (full-featured) -- Mirage Forum Mobile Style Contact Us MirageForum.com - Mitsubishi Mirage / Space Star / Attrage / Dodge Attitude Forum and Owners Club Archive Top Threads Google Threads Posts Advanced View First Unread Thread Tools Search this Thread Log In | Register By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community > AcuraZine TL/TLX Community > Second Generation TL (1999-2003) > 2G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. i have already bought my rims, i havent put them on yet, should change my suspension first to like the look when its stock, or should i put my rims and change my suspension accordingly Reply Like how much you should lower the car depends on the rims. post some pics of the rims first. also depends on how much you drive in the snow, which i assume you do quite a bit living in canada. maybe some other members have some first hand experience of driving in the snow with a lowered car? I'd change suspension first, then wheels.... but to each their own... ultimately it's up to you. you should always drop first... then buy the rims to fit accordingly... also, putting rims on a stock height car (i know somebody will be butt hurt over this) yeah dont make the same mistake i did... i totally regret getting rims 1st =/ ok .. but if i change my suspension accordingly to my 16 inch stock rims, then put on 19'zz i think it depends on what your unique situation is. if there are rims you really like, buy them and work around it. plus, if your facing winter every year, you do not want to be dropped too much, you'll be sliding all over since you will have a lower center of gravity and have more of a grip demand on your tires. if you drop it three inches, now you need to stick with a really high offset, so that will limit your wheel choices. i think it works the same way no matter what you do-suspension first will limit your wheel options...wheels first will limit your suspension options. do you want to be scraping low with small wheels, or keep it practical with bigger wheels, it's your choice!! in my situation, i really wanted a certain wheel which happened to have a low offset, so i can't lower it too much. i am also up against winter in new england, and shitty roads. so i knew i wasn't lowering too much, i just want to close the wheel gap. so i got the wheels i wanted, which are 19x8 +40 w/ 235/35 tires, learned i have about 2" in the rear and 3" up front to work with, and from there purchased the eibach pro-system-plus which will give me exactly what i'm looking for...improved handling, very little gap in the wheel well, and a lower than stock stance....done & done!! buddy thanks a million, i think u just answered my question, i have the same width rims and tires. i was wondering how much room i might have in order to figure the suspension.
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For more details about the design process and the inspiration behind Loopwheels go to their Kickstarter page – and coincidentally you will also be able to join the list of backers and buy yourself a piece of cycling history and be part of cycling’s future!
Have you ever had an oversized truck pass you and your vehicle sways from side to side? This is a sign of worn or weak shocks and struts. Weak, worn, or bad shocks and struts can cause very poor vehicle handling issues and ride comfort problems. This is because worn shocks and struts have lost the internal pressure and ability to keep applied pressure downward. This can cause excessive bounce and roll when hitting bumps or potholes, which can also lead to premature tire wear.
Each wheel reportedly weighs about 300 grams (10.5 oz) more than a comparable spoked wheel.
From an aesthetics point of view they are gorgeous to look at, but from riding them it is obvious that Sam and Gemma have created something special. Riding 20″ slicks is not normally the most fun way to enjoy the farm tracks of the UK, but with the Loopwheels it suddenly changed, the rough buzz disappeared and you find yourself enjoying the ride rather than worrying about your wheels and the bike bouncing everywhere!
Isn’t this criticism true of the vast majority of front suspension systems on the market though? Other than a few crazy linkage equipped forks that never really caught on, compression of a suspension fork will steepen the head angle and shorten the wheelbase too. dorkdisk on May 20th, 2016 - 2:25pm
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Need looks and performance? Coilover suspension is a great option for anyone looking to lower their center of gravity while improving overall handling. Most coilover kits offer both ride height and dampening adjustability while coming in a complete package that will replace your stock springs and shock absorbers.
Emerging GearFrom next-gen tech to ingenious innovation, our weekly peek at emerging products examines the sometimes cutting-edge, sometimes quirky world of gear design. Spoke Shocks: Radical MTB Suspension Concept
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They didn’t even mention the rim profile, surface treatment or wind tunnel results. I mean come on! Call me when there’s an aero version. Maxx on May 20th, 2016 - 11:05pm
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