Without a suspension system, the car’s wheels would hit a bump and move up and down perpendicular to the road surface. This vertical energy would be transferred to the car’s frame, which would pull the wheels away from the road before gravity takes over and slams the car down. The suspension system must be finely tuned using a combination of springs and shock absorbers to reduce these effects for a comfortable and smooth ride.
Richard Quest, the designer of LoopWheel, asks “Why can’t the suspension work in all directions?” in regards to conventional wheels. Hence, the idea of LoopWheel originates. A 20-inch Loopwheel with Shimano Alfine 11-speed hub weighs 2.13kg. A LoopWheel is about 300g heavier than a conventional spoke wheel of the same size. However, you do get the added suspension and a smoother ride.
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FORSALE thread: k20 neo chrome cover + oil cap + coil pack covers for sale: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/fs...me-valve-cover-oil-cap-coil-pack-covers.6642/ First Name Kelly Joined Aug 6, 2020 Messages 151 Reaction score 232 Location Victoria, TX Car(s) 2021 Supra
"I am very pleased with my Loopwheels. They look good and they make the track smoother. I think I go faster with them...." The Ultimate Wheelchair Suspension Reduce vibrations by up to 70% with Loopwheels
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
It’s important to note, that the axle is slightly wider than the tail of the frame. I widened the opening by grinding down just enough metal at the tail work a rotary tool to gain clearance. After that, it took no time to install. As an aside, this presents a perfect opportunity to change your brake pads as well. I was extremely hesitant to buy one of these wheel assembly kits. Many had reviews of non-spinning wheels or other horror stories, but this one did not. I took the jump, and it has worked out perfectly. No more back flats to worry about, and no loss to top speed! The ride is a little bumpier, but i only noticed the first ride or two. Slight decrease to total range as well, but that’ll happen. It fit my M365 perfectly, just had to adjust the brakes to fit this setup. I can not recommend this enough as a quick solution to eliminate flat tires as an issue. I am beyond pleased with my purchase
It may work fine but high volume tyres can do a very similar job while being simpler lighter and cheaper… Speshy on May 20th, 2016 - 3:38pm Ventruck. on May 20th, 2016 - 4:20pm
Because of the integral suspension, Loopwheels are more comfortable than standard wheelchair wheels. They absorb tiring vibration, bumps and shocks.
Scooter Tire - Delaman Rear Wheel Tire Disc Brake Tyre for Xiaomi Mijia M365 Electric Scooter
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Why allow weather to limit your performance? TRX employs an initial 45/55 torque split and manages engine horsepower for optimal launch performance on snow and ice.
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As you can see, the fitment looks very good on the car. The wheels and tires fill out the wheel wells satisfyingly, though don’t rub in any way. Since the tires are summer fitment, we are running them only in warmer weather. Before the seasons turned, we were able to log some miles and found that the greater weight and larger contact patch with summer compound tires did take a toll on range. We’ve seen that come in at about 185-190 miles for a full charge in fall temperatures.
The twin-screw supercharger provides near instantaneous torque, has a maximum speed of 14,600 rpm and can regulate boost pressure up to an astounding 11.0 psi.
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When one wheel moves up it pulls up one end of the bar and the other end pulls up the other wheel, keeping the car level.