Shop Wheelchair Wheels Accessories Try Before You Buy About Us About Us Our Brochure What Are Loopwheels? What is a Loopwheel How does it work? Engineering Loopwheels Guidance Our Customers Contact Us A vibration reducing wheel with integral suspension. Loopwheels minimise vibration, which can reduce fatigue and discomfort and give you a smoother ride.
Our website requires JavaScript to be enabled to work properly. Please enable JavaScript.
.
8" x 2" (200x50) Caster Solid Rubber Front Rear Caster Tires Wheels Assembly for Many Standard Wheelchairs Powerchairs/Electric Wheelchair Replace
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
We also carry a wide variety of upgraded suspension bushings. Refreshing the old, worn out bushings in your car with fresh polyurethane bushings will improve your ride quality and handling. Polyurethane bushings outperform and outlast OEM rubber bushings and can withstand racing conditions. Upgrade your bushings to reduce wheel hop, improve stability and increase control. Build your kit here Aftermarket Car Wheels More Information
For me, base on this design, as long as you can maintain the hub to be: ground to hub distance would always be greater than the hub to the horizontal distance (radius) to the rim. then you should be fine.
Handling is similarly augmented. The e-tron’s center of gravity is already quite low thanks to the placement of the battery mass in the floor but tightening up the corners help keep it balanced.
A good selection of accessories such as screws, bolts, washers and nuts that you may need for your daily engineering usage. Screws, Bolts Screws for Building Materials Washers Nuts Anchors Rivet Insert Tools Washers, Collars Shims Hair Pins, Cotter Pins Machine Keys Retaining Rings Screw Plugs Adjuster Dowel Pins, Spring Pins, Stepped Pins
They deliver such a smooth ride it is like my world has suddenly become a much flatter place!
Our website may contain links to other websites of interest. However, once you have used these links to leave our site, you should note that we do not have any control over that other website. Therefore, we cannot be responsible for the protection and privacy of any information which you provide whilst visiting such sites and such sites are not governed by this privacy statement. You should exercise caution and look at the privacy statement applicable to the website in question.
Hot Wheels Massive Loop Mayhem Track Set and Car - £41.25 Free click & collect @ Argos The Hot Wheels Massive Loop Mayhem Track Set is a thrilling playset that gives kids the opportunity to test their Hot Wheels vehicles against each other! The set features a 71cm wide loop track which is perfect to race Hot Wheels cars. Kids can use the slam launcher to see how many vehicles can run at once and have nail-biting near-misses before some awesome crashes start to happen. One Hot Wheels racecar is included to get the excitement started! (Additional cars sold separately. ) Colours and decorations may vary.
That was a fantastic read. Thanks for sharing, I have already made a list of things I want to do with my car, granted not an interior list nor a 100% complete list, but as far as budget and small things (considering its just gonna be a mild modded DD) as the thread you linked calls it but I still got something out of it. Thanks again. Eventually i'm going to do a B-Swap but suspension work is a no brainer to get out of the way, atleast in my opinion OK..........so why are you asking us what should you do first if its a no brainer to you? Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. A good riding spring lowers the car about 1-2" maximum. Some suggestions would be eibach pro kits, h&r sports, or Tein S techs with koni STRT shocks. They'll work fine with 15x7 +40 or so. I'd use 205/50/15's. But you can also use the stock 195/55/15. If you buy the wheels/tires first, the car will look funny until you lower it.
Not for you? At the end of your trial we’ll arrange collection of your wheels – no obligations, no questions asked, no extra fees.
Loopwheels are optimised for adults. If you weigh less than 50kg, you won’t feel as much benefit from the suspension as someone heavier.
Double wishbones are used mostly at the front. There are two wishbones, one above the other, to keep the wheel upright as it rises and falls.
Loopwheel springs are made from a carbon composite material, carefully developed and tested to give optimum compression and lateral stability as well as strength and durability. Specially-designed connectors attach the springs to the hub and rim. The three loops in each wheel work together as a self-correcting system. This spring system between the hub and the rim of the wheel provides suspension that constantly adjusts to uneven terrain – cushioning the rider from bumps and potholes in the road. In effect, the hub floats within the rim, adjusting constantly as shocks from an uneven road hit the rim of the wheel. The spring configuration allows the torque to be transferred smoothly between the hub and the rim.
Maybe I’m wrong but wouldn’t the wheel react differently every time you hit the same obstacle depending on how the shocks are pointed? Bartthebikeman on May 20th, 2016 - 2:58pm