Don't let your budget put your build on pause, monthly payments available with Affirm. WHEELS & TIRES IN STOCK Year 2022202120202019201820172016201520142013201220112010200920082007200620052004200320022001200019991998199719961995199419931992199119901989198819871986198519841983198219811980197919781977197619751974197319721971197019691968196719661965196419631962196119601959 Make Model Drive/Trim Square or Staggered Square Staggered SHOP WHEELS Year2022202120202019201820172016201520142013201220112010200920082007200620052004200320022001200019991998199719961995199419931992199119901989198819871986198519841983198219811980197919781977197619751974197319721971197019691968196719661965196419631962196119601959 Air SuspensionCoiloversLowering SpringsStockSuspensionLifted Get a completely new setup in one place. Check out our pre built wheel and tire packages and get free mounting, balancing, and shipping as well as over $200 in savings. Suspension Get low or tear up the track. Check out our massive selection of suspension products here. You'll find everything from lowering springs to coilovers and air suspension. Store The details matter. Whether you're looking for colored lug nuts, underglow, or just some bangin' apparel for the next meet, you'll find it all here.
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Gary: I agree in principal - and I believe, as usual that forum members are all trying to say the same thing. Which is that 1) when we know our equipment and 2) the circumstance is favorable then there should be no problems. However, OP, an admitted newbie, did not tell us the year and model of his Thor (I may have missed it), nor the type of jack nor the degree of slope he could be considering - so, to err on the side of safety when advising someone that is NOT familiar with his equipment I think our answer should be a conservative and collective NO - don't go off the ground for the drive axle (brakes). As always, disagree or agree the forum group is constantly trying to help others to stay safe and enjoy this wonderful way of life (for some) and pastime (for others). The shocks will limit how much the front air bags can extend, whether or not it damages the front shocks is a different topic. As a general rule MH's with solid front axles state in the owners manual NOT to lift front wheels off the ground. I've never read of IFS MH's having such a statement. 2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA." My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) Thread Tools Search this Thread Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post On-off on off on off off off rear view camera Bahcml Newmar Owner's Forum 5 08-12-2019 10:44 PM Lifting wheels off ground when leveling Geneandea Just Conversation 9 11-10-2015 08:35 AM Can you over extend the air bags...by raising the front wheels off the ground StansCustoms Alpine Coach Owner's Forum 27 12-02-2010 02:05 PM Jacks raise wheels off ground, good or not? jab862 Fleetwood Owner's Forum 11 08-24-2009 06:40 AM lifting front tires off the ground with leveling jacks George Cayer MH-General Discussions & Problems 14 02-09-2005 06:53 PM Contact Us - Home - Archive - RVLife - Community Rules - Terms of Service - Privacy - Accessibility - Top Home Discovery Queue Wishlist Points Shop News Stats © Valve Corporation. All rights reserved. All trademarks are property of their respective owners in the US and other countries. #footer_privacy_policy | #footer_legal | #footer_ssa | #footer_refunds All Discussions Screenshots Artwork Broadcasts Videos Workshop News Guides Reviews All Discussions Screenshots Artwork Broadcasts Videos Workshop News Guides Reviews Space Engineers > General Discussions > Topic Details I spent a few hours last night working on this, but so far I can only get wheels to roll if they're attached to a suspension system. Am I missing something here? That seems like a pretty big failing, as there are plenty of reasons to need wheels in a fixed position.
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The Hovertrax has no learning curve and requires no skills to use, which is good because you can bet that if I'm too lazy to walk myself down the street or hallway, I am definitely too lazy to learn how to use a complex...
When you create a wheel and tire package, you qualify for free mounting, balancing, and TPMS installation.
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When you’re on uneven ground, vibrations can wear you out, making it harder to drive your chair and triggering spasms and pain. Loopwheels make travelling over bumpy ground more fun and less tiring.
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The spring configuration allows the torque to be transferred smoothly between the hub and the rim
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They deliver such a smooth ride it is like my world has suddenly become a much flatter place!
We also carry a wide variety of upgraded suspension bushings. Refreshing the old, worn out bushings in your car with fresh polyurethane bushings will improve your ride quality and handling. Polyurethane bushings outperform and outlast OEM rubber bushings and can withstand racing conditions. Upgrade your bushings to reduce wheel hop, improve stability and increase control. Build your kit here Aftermarket Car Wheels More Information
Boston.com reports the latest trends, auto shows and wrings out the newest cars in our city's hellish maze — and across the great roads of New England. Keep up with all the latest Boston sports news --from the court to the field to the rink with this daily newsletter Contributors Clifford Atiyeh is an automotive writer and car enthusiast . He has spent his entire life driving cars he doesn't own. In the garage: 1995 21-speed Iron Horse, 2002 Jeep Wrangler X (by association) Bill Griffith is a veteran Boston Globe reporter, having reviewed cars for more than 10 years and serving as assistant sports editor for 25 years. He was also the paper's sports media columnist. In the garage: 2006 Subaru Baja John Paul is public affairs manager for AAA Southern New England, a certified mechanic, and a Globe columnist. He hosts a weekly radio show on WROL.
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“Why would you want to lower it?” an unnamed Audi product planner asked when I’d shared my plans for the e-tron with him. “It’ll look like an Avant.”
The three loops in each wheel work together as a self-correcting system. This spring system between the hub and the rim of the wheel provides suspension that constantly adjusts to uneven terrain – cushioning the rider from bumps and potholes in the road. In effect, the hub floats within the rim, adjusting constantly as shocks from an uneven road hit the rim of the wheel.
For more information on what is causing your steering and suspension system problems check out our diagnostic center.
Like a regular pneumatic tire, the ASW is air-suspended, but in this case, it's not by an inflated tube. It's a full hub and wheel replacement that separates the outer tread and rim from the hub using a set of eccentrically mounted, pneumatic air cylinders.
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The big limitation that I can see, is that if there is any deflection when the rider gets on the bike, that means that the rider is essentially pedaling uphill all the time (Because he has to compress the springs as he moves forward). The other problem is that unless the springs are precisely calibrated to the riders weight this will really destroy the rolling efficiency of the bicycle. Malcolm Jacks May 23, 2020 03:09 AM
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Each time the wheel revolves, you’re compressing “suspension”. This means that precious rider energy is being wasted, constantly. It’s kind of like the drag you get from soft, 5″ fat tires.
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It remains static on standard floors or smooth pavements but shifts to an active response mode when the wheel encounters obstacles. The wheel’s hub symmetrically expands or shrinks to absorb the transmitted shock. Ultimate Wheelchair
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The pics i've seen so far have been fine so I doubt there will be a huge change but nonetheless, your best bet would be finding a picture of a stock suspension car with the same sized wheels and offsets that you want.
Design concern: Compressing the suspension changes the center of the wheel. When the wheel is also rolling this means there needs to be a ‘handoff’ between the three struts. The result will be the translation of energy in to compressing the next strut which will slow the wheel. Torquemada on May 21st, 2016 - 9:39am
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"I have used my Loopwheels since they were first launched, I’ve tried them all, but NOTHING compares with these Loopwheels, after a month or so I had no more back pain, 75% less marks..."
unlike other bikes I purchased, I did not have to make any tuning/adjustments for the deralleurs - hope this won't jinx it. The bike arrived very fast and only a little assembly to do and very easy. The gears change very smoothly. It's a little heavy but I'm very satisfied !!! Had bike for just over a month and gears don’t work proper and back wheel frame is bent and has a wobble. Thought getting a more expensive bike would be more durable but I was wrong. My 200 dollar Canadian Tire bike was better. The tires are missing some ball bearing and trying to put the tire on only results in a wobbly tire. Off to buy some ball bearings now... Grumble.
Studies have shown that wheelchair users are exposed to levels of vibration that are considered unsafe and that this can affect health and life quality.
It's 10am and the door rings. I cannot get down the stairs to answer the door. I'm sore from a fall the day before and today, the st...
If you don't mind...what are the full specs of your wheels/tires? I'm just wondering because I have the X model and I know the widths and everything will be slightly different and no staggering for me. I think your setup looks great considering no drop, but I don't know how it would compare to an X model with no staggering or spacers etc.
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@ Bob Stuart: The built-in air cylinders avoid the bouncing. The very first design in 2010 was actually with springs and, indeed too bouncy. The cylinders have a non linear suspension (exponential) that have a great dampening effect.
They didn’t even mention the rim profile, surface treatment or wind tunnel results. I mean come on! Call me when there’s an aero version. Maxx on May 20th, 2016 - 11:05pm
A pair of shock-absorbing wheels for wheelchairs with integral suspension, designed to help you push over uneven streets, rough tracks, grass and gravel paths, with less effort. The carbon leaf springs give you extra power to get up or down kerbs/curbs. They’re wonderfully comfortable over cobblestones, and potholes needn’t be a problem any more!
In addition to these suspension extra springs are added at the handle and below the seat which gives the rider a smooth ride.
Supplied fitted with black or silver aluminium push rims, offset at either 19mm (wide) or 11mm (narrow) from the rim. Or for a more ergonomic experience on 24″ wheels upgrade to Curve or Curve Grip hand rims. Price each (Excl. Tax) £3.95 Price each (Incl. Tax) £4.74 Price each (Excl. Tax) £25.00 Price each (Incl. Tax) £30.00 Price each (Excl. Tax) £20.00 Price each (Incl. Tax) £24.00 Sitemap: Home Information FAQ About Us Contact Us Cookie Policy Privacy Policy Terms of Use VAT Exemption For Help Call 01480 451247 Mon to Fri 9.00 to 17.00
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It’s a good idea to schedule regular inspections of your steering and suspension systems. It is usually easier, cheaper and safer to discover and fix a problem before it snowballs, causing further consequences.
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So 12mm spacers are just enough to clear the calipers? Looks like it only pokes a few mm... The car does look good...the wheels are killer( even though they're a knock off...lol) First Name Kyle Joined Jun 22, 2020 Messages 243 Reaction score 123 Location CA Car(s) 2020 A90 GR Supra, 1996 NA Miata, 2014 Camry SE So 12mm spacers are just enough to clear the calipers? Looks like it only pokes a few mm... The car does look good...the wheels are killer( even though they're a knock off...lol) yea.. but i heard mostly every one goes for a 19x9.5 +22 in front for a flush fitment and clears the calipers, but i guess it also depends on the make/design of the wheel. thanks i appreciate it. at least i dont try to set it off as "real BBS" by slapping a sticker on it, more disrespect. my friend was selling me actual BBS CH R but they were 5x120 so i couldnt run them
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You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
