You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
Because of the similarities between bicycle wheels and wheelchair wheels, it made sense for the Loopwheels team to look at developing a smoother wheelchair ride. To that end, they just wrapped up a successful Kickstarter campaign, raising close to $33,000 toward their shock-absorbing wheelchairs. Loopwheel Reinvents the Bike Wheel With a Suspension System Built Into the Rims Vincent Chan's Citi.Transmitter Shows How a Modular Vehicle Could Support Sustainable Cities By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. I agree to receive emails from the site. I can withdraw my consent at any time by unsubscribing. I agree to Inhabitat's Terms of Use, Privacy Policy, and to the Cookie Policy described therein, and I also consent to the collection, storage, and processing of my data in the United States, where data protection laws may be different from those in my country. Categories ▼ Gift Guide Giveaways Exclusives Buyer's Guides Gear Style Autos Entertainment Food Fitness Household Outdoors OMG!!! NFTs Giveaways Exclusives Login Signup Contact Us About Us Suggest a Product Giveaway Partnership Advertise Privacy Policy
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Instead of sharing a common axle, each wheel on a car with independent suspension is independently attached to the body or subframe. Different spring combinations may be used.
These wheels have a standard axle bearing diameter of ½” (12.7mm), but are not supplied with axles. Buy axles separately here if needed. If you need a 12mm axle bearing instead of ½” then please contact us.
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Here are a couple of pics of my 2009 G37S with stock suspension and 20" wheels. I would love to lower the front some but I am fine with the back and I don't want to get into all the other issues that come up with lowering a car (rubbing, alignment issues, etc etc).
It’s one thing to look at the video, but up close they really are a sight to behold – they literally challenge everything you think you know about a spoked bike wheel.
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Worn, weak, or bad shocks and struts can also affect your vehicle stopping distance by up to 10 feet. Furthermore, they place excessive pressure on additional suspension components such as your upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and bushings.
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It’s important to note, that the axle is slightly wider than the tail of the frame. I widened the opening by grinding down just enough metal at the tail work a rotary tool to gain clearance. After that, it took no time to install. As an aside, this presents a perfect opportunity to change your brake pads as well. I was extremely hesitant to buy one of these wheel assembly kits. Many had reviews of non-spinning wheels or other horror stories, but this one did not. I took the jump, and it has worked out perfectly. No more back flats to worry about, and no loss to top speed! The ride is a little bumpier, but i only noticed the first ride or two. Slight decrease to total range as well, but that’ll happen. It fit my M365 perfectly, just had to adjust the brakes to fit this setup. I can not recommend this enough as a quick solution to eliminate flat tires as an issue. I am beyond pleased with my purchase
But the negatives are pretty significant, especially in and around Boston, where our roads are rapidly deteriorating, and potholes are a regular occurrence.
Because of the similarities between bicycle wheels and wheelchair wheels, it made sense for the Loopwheels team to look at developing a smoother wheelchair ride. To that end, they just wrapped up a successful Kickstarter campaign, raising close to $33,000 toward their shock-absorbing wheelchairs. Loopwheel Reinvents the Bike Wheel With a Suspension System Built Into the Rims Vincent Chan's Citi.Transmitter Shows How a Modular Vehicle Could Support Sustainable Cities By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. I agree to receive emails from the site. I can withdraw my consent at any time by unsubscribing. I agree to Inhabitat's Terms of Use, Privacy Policy, and to the Cookie Policy described therein, and I also consent to the collection, storage, and processing of my data in the United States, where data protection laws may be different from those in my country. Categories ▼ Gift Guide Giveaways Exclusives Buyer's Guides Gear Style Autos Entertainment Food Fitness Household Outdoors OMG!!! NFTs Giveaways Exclusives Login Signup Contact Us About Us Suggest a Product Giveaway Partnership Advertise Privacy Policy
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There are a lot of good points that have been made in this thread. I think a big factor in your decision will be really the road conditions in your area. Lots of changes in slopes that cause you to bottom out would not be a good thing for a lowered vehicle. The cars I have seen here look quite good, mostly because they have either 19s or dubs on them. I'm having such a tough decision on whether or not I want to get a ZR or G coupe. Keep the pics coming...maybe it'll help persuade me one way or another.
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