Suspension Wheels Loopwheel & Softwheel Home Parts & Accessories Accessories Suspension Wheels SoftWheel state that their wheel's innovative in-wheel suspension technology can help reduce pain and provide a more comfortable ride. 3 suspension arms are built inside the wheel and automatically compress when encountering an obstacle or rough terrain, but remain rigid and strong over flat surfaces The arms are set equidistant around a central hub to provide shock absorption - no matter what the angle of impact is. The suspension arms immediately reset and return the wheelchair – and rider, to a level ride. Standard Specifications Carbon Fibre springs with Hydraulic and Pneumatic damper suspension rams Aluminium hub - to suit 1/2" quick release axles Max Travel: 32mm Carbon Fibre rims Standard 6-tab hard anodised push-rims 32mm clearance required if you have mud guards Wheels are not interchangeable between left and right sides * Wheel weight without pushrim and tyres A Loopwheel is a wheel with integral suspension, designed to reduce vibration and increase performance and provide greater comfort. Loopwheels give you a smoother ride. They are more comfortable than standard wheels: the carbon springs absorb tiring vibration, as well as bumps and shocks. They’re designed for everyday use and are strong and durable. They won’t run as true as a spoked wheel, but they will be a lot more comfortable. Loopwheels are not just a wheel, they’re a suspension system. Loopwheels help people push over uneven streets, rough tracks and gravel paths, with less effort, and the carbon springs give you extra power to get up or down kerbs. They reduce jolting and vibration, by as much as two thirds compared with a spoked wheel. Users report that this helps them manage pain. With standard quick release axles, a choice between 12mm or ½ inch bearings and available in 24″ and 25″ sizes, loopwheels fit most manual wheelchairs. Standard Specifications Carbon fibre Loop suspension Load limit: 120kg Max Travel: 70mm Double wall aluminium rims Standard 6-tab hard anodised push-rims Contact us for available colours * Wheel weight without pushrim and tyres
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More advanced details about this project can be found in an interview conducted in Korean after he won the award.
LotFancy 8 1/2 x 2 Pneumatic Tire Fit for Xiaomi Mijia M365 Electric Scooter, 8.5 Inches Front/Rear Scooter Tire Solid Replacement
A Life Lesson About People With Disabilities For Parents Everywhere - "Giving a child a good experience may ultimately make them more understanding and comfortable. The problem is though that some parents don’t know how to react to their child’s curiosity."
A wide variety of standard and configurable components for factory automation engineers in industries such as automotive, semiconductor, packaging, medical and many more.
Thickness: 1/4" (6.4 mm) with steel meeting or exceeding ASTM A1011 SS GR 33, or 0.220" (5.6mm) with steel meeting or exceeding ASTM A1011 HSLAS GR 45
It is a significant risk factor for those with spinal disorders, increasing the amount of muscle fatigue and potentially damaging connecting nerves. Vibration is also believed to have significant impact on pain, the development of pressure sores, spasticity and general discomfort. It limits the time, distance and surfaces that users will consider for manual chair use.
At ceremony in Manama with his Bahraini counterpart, FM says ‘Israel made a major, historical step today in the Gulf’ Lapid lands in Bahrain on landmark trip to open embassy, sign agreements First commercial flight between Israel and Bahrain lands at Ben Gurion Airport Andy Levin says friendship with Rashida Tlaib gives him hope for Mideast peace Detroit-area representative sets himself apart from father, uncle who proceeded him in Congress by taking more progressive stances on Israel and making it a front-and-center issue Refusing to ‘hotline’ Iron Dome bill, Republican slows its passage in Senate VP aides assure Jewish groups she’s pro-Israel after unrefuted ‘genocide’ remark With hours to spare, Biden signs bill to avert partial government shutdown Satellite images show alleged Iranian missile factory seriously damaged in blast Private Israeli intelligence firm releases photographs of facility outside Tehran, where at least two members of the Iranian military were killed earlier this week UN group blasts ‘staggering’ bias of judge against lawyer fighting Chevron
A Life Lesson About People With Disabilities For Parents Everywhere - "Giving a child a good experience may ultimately make them more understanding and comfortable. The problem is though that some parents don’t know how to react to their child’s curiosity."
looking to get the same size and offset wheel and tires for stock Si (not planning to lower), will it work without rolling fenders? looking to get the same size and offset wheel and tires for stock Si (not planning to lower), will it work without rolling fenders? I think so. The minor hand pull I did front and rear was only for aesthetics. The rear wheels definitely gain a lot of neg camber when compressed so shouldn't be an issue there and the front should be fine as well. What you may want to take into account is the "rim protector" on certain tires is fairly aggressive on some (Continental Extreme Contact Sport) but not existent on others (Hankook V12 Evo2). If any amount of poke bothers you, then try to look at pictures of wheels and look for that. But I would again say that is more for aesthetics. But I would prob look into removing the locating pin on the upper strut mount up front first and adding in that little bit of neg camber for more clearance first.
i will have pics shortly, havn't put everything on permanantly yet, waiting a couple more weeks til spring. i have the wheels & suspension sitting in my house staring at me everyday, it's painful. but if you open this link, you will see 19x8 +40 lowered 1.5", just for reference. and honestly, i'm afraid to post pics on this site with the way people pick things apart, but i probably will anyway-give me a few weeks!! https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-photograph-gallery-99/some-quick-sneak-peek-pics-my-03-tl-s-759701/
Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. Suspension, but don't just slap on some lowering springs on stock stocks; invest the money and get both. Better to do both then put on lowering springs then have to break down the assembly two months later to replace the spent stock shocks. Save yourself some labor. yea true. its been answered.. IDK even know where I would move it to. So its closed 18" TE 37 wheel hop/, smaller wheels w/ bigger tires? heavier wheels? Suspension? Featured How-Tos Honda Civic: Body Modifications Why is My Dashboard Cracking? How to Paint Interior Why is My Engine Hesitating? Honda Accord: Fuse Box Diagram All How-Tos » Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Top View First Unread Thread Tools Search this Thread Log in | Register S2KI Honda S2000 Forums > General Interest > The S2000 Gallery The S2000 Gallery Cornucopia of sight and sound! Show your friends your S2000 photos, S2000 images, S2000 photochops and S2000 videos. so i've searched and searched but most threads are old so the pics dont work. my car is currently lowered and the rear is WAY too stiff so im thinking of going back to stock suspension and keeping my 17" wheels. ps. i've always driven lowered cars, dumped cars actually so i dont wanna hear the 4x4 comments or people bragging about how low they are. Here's my S2000. I am on stock suspension and have 18" Rota D2 wheels. I get a lot of compliments on it actually. yokes... suspension before wheels guys please for the love of the kittens I understand your opinion, but for some of us having a lowered ride height is not an option. My car is a daily driver...year round...through Michigan winters. Thus lowering makes my car less practical than normal. So the comment about "suspension before wheels" is unnecessary for me. I'd like to see how many guys that are lowered get through a Michigan winter like I do! I agree that the lowered ride height looks great, and if I had a second car or didn't need to drive through winter snow, I'd lower my car slightly as well. Drove my integra tucking tires thru MN winters when I was younger and I could only afford one car To be honest with the stock sized tires. My buddies stock s2k with stock ap2 wheels and tires doesn't look that bad at stock height. man my car is tucking and out here the roads are some of the worst around, stock height is not an excuse! No offense, but you live in Texas and your winters are nothing compared to Michigan. I don't mind my car at stock height; it works for me. Haters are always gonna hate... I'm sure you were brave enough to drive a slammed Integra through the winters but....did you want to? Did it handle great? Was clearance an issues? Let's be realistic guys... Not all of us can afford to lower our cars, or have second cars, or can deal with the impracticality. Different strokes for different folks. have you considered a small drop? maybe koni yellow or something Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Top Thank you for your quote request. A representative will get back to you shortly. For immediate assistance please call . Your Information: First Name* Last Name* Phone* Email* Select a Location* : E Whittier Blvd, La Habra, CA S Monte Vista St, La Habra, CA Salinas Tires & Wheels, Westminster CA N Hacienda Blvd, La Puente, CA Your Vehicle: Year Make Model Option — OR — Let us find your vehicle info for you: Get My Vehicle Info Comments * Required Field Suspension Repair in La Habra, CA Properly aligned steering and suspension can help deliver a smooth and controlled ride. Salinas Tires & Wheels offers quality affordable La Habra, CA auto repair services and La Habra, CA Suspension Repair. What they do: The steering system and suspension systems bear the weight of your vehicle, maintain the tires on the road while driving and assist in delivering a hassle-free, safer trip. Why service is necessary: The steering and suspension system must be checked at least once a year to prevent significant repairs. Anytime you feel symptoms of steering or suspension troubles have your mechanic check your car to correct the issue rapidly. Extended steering and suspension concerns will result in extreme safety dangers quickly. Indicators that you require your steering and suspension system examined consist of: Pulling to the side Troubles steering Complications driving over uneven roads or dips Vehicle continues to bounce after going over a bump Tires stray or shake Steering seems to be slipping To help ensure your steering and shocks are working appropriately, a technician may examine all of your steering and suspension parts, and will also evaluate: Power steering fluid Tightness of nuts and bolts Uneven tires or wear Unbalanced wheels Torn or used power steering belts Problems with alignment Impacts and/or Struts Steering Wheel Alignment Our technicians will also inspect your tires and tire balance to make sure the complications are not tire-related. We will take care of all of your steering necessities, call or stop in today for an estimation! Call Salinas Tires & Wheels soon to set up your next Suspension Repair and Wheel Alignment service. Salinas Tires & Wheels is proud to be your number one auto repair services in La Habra, CA and provider of La Habra, CA tires. Salinas Tires & Wheels proudly serves the local La Habra and Westminster, CA areas. We understand that getting your car fixed or buying new tires can be overwhelming. Let us help you choose from our large selection of tires. We feature tires that fit your needs and budget from top quality brands, such as Michelin®, BFGoodrich®, Uniroyal®, and more. We pride ourselves on being your number one choice for any auto repair. Let us earn your business. Home Tires Wheels Services Coupons About Us Contact Privacy Policy Terms of Use Sitemap Accessibility Powered by By clicking "Continue" or continuing to use our site, you acknowledge that you accept our Privacy Policy and Terms of Use. We also use cookies to provide you with the best possible experience on our website. You can find out more about the cookies we use and learn how to manage them here. Feel free to check out our policies anytime for more information. MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion > General > 2003-2009 Nissan 350Z > 350Z Roadster Before creating a new thread or contacting a moderator/administrator, please peruse the following threads first to see if it's already been addressed: My350Z.com Terms of Use (TOU) - || - Top 100 FAQs - || - Marketplace FAQs - || - Premier Membership I have searched through the modified Roadster picture thread, but I can't decipher which pics are wheels on stock suspension or if the car is lowered. Can the people with aftermarket rims and stock suspension please post pics of their ride. I want to see if aftermarket wheels would look weird on stock height. btw. I may be finalizing a deal on a ZR tomorrow...but I'm still undecided. These pics could sway me. Personally, I think it looks fine. The wheel gap left after putting 19's on my Z is even-spaced all around. Straight from the factory, the wheel gap on a Z is considerably less than most cars out there. Even compared to a handful of high-dollar supercars, the Z's gap is less. I've done the drop thing in the past, but I just can't justify it as much with the Z. Sure, it may look a little better dropped, but I don't think it looks bad at all with the factory ride height (with or without aftermarket wheels). damn that looks sweet! definitely dont need to lower anymore. I bought my wheels like almost two years ago, on the stock suspension, it made me wanna cry....look how horrible it looks, also it didnt help I bought the wrong size tires for the rear, a stretched 275/30, my 285/35's are the perfect size now, but even if I had them on stock suspension, its gross looking. these first two pics are without my Tein Stechs(the car looks like a damn truck its so high), the third is the same tires with the Teins, it looked alot better but the tire being the wrong size still bothered me, finally the last pics are Teins + 235/35 and 285/35 tires...its as close to perfect as I am going to get, any lower I would have to shave the fender wall and get some suspension, but I am happy where it sits. Last edited by atar350; 02-25-2007 at 11:01 AM. when i got my wheels i just rofl'd for awhile at the 4x4 look i had going. i had to do something about it so i got some hotchkis springs. mild drop, much better. It doesnt look bad at all, but the nice thing about the Teins and some other springs (not all, because some just slam the car to the ground) was it was less then an inchdrop and gave it a more aggressive stance, body roll really wasnt an issue on the Z stock, but with some good springs it feels even more solid, I'd recommend them to you. Beleive me it was bad without springs, here is a good pic of the horrid gap on stock suspension... Last edited by dutchboy350Z; 02-25-2007 at 11:25 AM. lol, 20's will help fill a tire well, your car looks good but is really high off the ground, your car would be baaaaaaad lowered some. The Z coupe does look like its riding high now that I took another look at it. So I am having a hard time deciding whether or not to trade in my car for the ZR. The whole impracticality of the car and having it as a daily driver even in winter is scaring me...someone help convince me... So I am having a hard time deciding whether or not to trade in my car for the ZR. The whole impracticality of the car and having it as a daily driver even in winter is scaring me...someone help convince me...
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
For the first time ever on a Ram Truck, aluminum shift paddles are integrated within the flat-bottom steering wheel.