Bold, beautiful and precision-engineered to last. The iconic in-wheel shock absorbers offer a truly unique style. Whether made from aluminum, magnesium or carbon fiber, SoftWheels are guaranteed to turn heads day or night.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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SoftWheel, an Israeli company, is giving a high-tech update to the wheel, the ancient engine of civilization that enabled humans to explore their world.
Why reinvent the wheel? Because sometimes it makes for a better bike. Loopwheels are a completely new type of bicycle wheel, designed with a unique built-in suspension that makes for a delightfully smooth ride. Instead of spokes, as on a traditional bicycle wheel, the Loopwheels have three loop-shaped springs that allow the wheel to absorb the vibrations and bumps most riders are accustomed to feeling.
“What amazed me about Loopwheels is what an unbelievable confidence boost they gave me. They made it so much easier to get over uneven ground, and made me feel so much happier about getting out and about with my friends and family after my accident.”
That's perfect size, go with stock 235/40/18 or 245/40/18 will work too if you want more tire width. You can swap over the stock tires if they're the same size. I'm new here so want to ask all you all help me out really quick. I'm just wondering will this rim be okay to set up with my Hatchback Sport and what size of tire should I get with stock suspension? First Name Steve Joined Mar 10, 2018 Messages 265 Reaction score 65 Location Canada Car(s) '18 Civic EX-T
In addition to any of the points mentioned above, it is recommended that you (or your mechanic) visually inspect your steering and suspension systems if you notice any of the following symptoms:
Design concern: Compressing the suspension changes the center of the wheel. When the wheel is also rolling this means there needs to be a ‘handoff’ between the three struts. The result will be the translation of energy in to compressing the next strut which will slow the wheel. Torquemada on May 21st, 2016 - 9:39am
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Things turn even further in the favor of the ASW system if you factor in punctures, blowouts, tire fires and how long a truck has to be out of service each year while those monster tires get changed. ASW treads are bolt-on, bolt-off chunks that can be changed with very little gear, without even jacking any wheels up, and done in sections during shift changes and lunch breaks so the truck's never out of service due to tires. They can also ship much more cheaply, since the whole assembly can be broken down into bits that easily fit in a regular shipping container.
The Shock wheel features multiple engraved grooves racing down each of the five wide spokes of this design. Forceful by nature, the Shock demands to be seen and belongs on a bike equally as opinionated. Be flashy and coquettish in chrome, or bold and visually striking in a platinum cut, the Shock is meant to turn heads and coax out a whistle of appreciation. WheelsAir CleanersAccessoriesBrake SystemsHand & Foot ControlsPrimary DriveTrike AccessoriesPhatail KitSportbike & MetricReplacement PartsApparel Build ShopPM EditionCustom RidesDesign Families Installation SheetsClean & CareTesting & TUVWarranty Find your DealerBecome a DealerDealer Log-in Performance MachineRoland SandsXtreme MachineEmploymentEventsMediaConnect Privacy Notice | Terms of Service | Careers Educators Mentor Partner/Sponsor Judge Toggle navigation Brand Omni Wheel with Shock Absorber Contact Official Rules Privacy Policy Terms of Service
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[Hot Item] Spring Shock Absorption caster, SA61SPB-4''/5''/6''/8'', Caster Wheels, China, Factory, Suppliers, Manufacturers
Emerging GearFrom next-gen tech to ingenious innovation, our weekly peek at emerging products examines the sometimes cutting-edge, sometimes quirky world of gear design. Spoke Shocks: Radical MTB Suspension Concept
They will absorb even small shocks from the vibration of the road—unlike regular wheels. This means really smooth ride—even on a rough surface! Name Loopwheels Classic Loopwheels Carbon Loopwheels Urban Loopwheels Extreme Description A good value wheel offering everyday comfort, health protection and pain relief A Loopwheels Classic Wheel with 12% extra carbon for extra lateral stiffness, great for power attachments A light everyday wheel A wheel specifically designed for off-road use, including with a power attachment Features Comfortable Different colour options Stable Great carbon finish Lightweight – lift with one hand Looks great Supremely comfortable ride Off-road styling Lightweight Supremely comfortable ride Wheel diameters 24″ (BSD: 540mm) 25″ (BSD: 559mm) 24″ (BSD: 540mm) 24″ (BSD: 507mm) Colour options 6 colour options 10 logo colour options carbon with white outline logo carbon with white outline logo carbon with white outline logo Weight 1.8kg 1.8kg 1.3kg 1.3kg Vibration reduction (compared to a Spinergy Day Wheel) 60.90% 60.90% 109% 109% Lateral stiffness Good Very Good (20% more than Classic) Excellent (37% more than Classic) Excellent (37% more than Classic)
Hot Wheels Massive Loop Mayhem Track Set and Car - £41.25 Free click & collect @ Argos£41.25Argos Deals
Among the very few prominent recumbent groups around the world precious few can boast of the long history of racing and designing bents as can the British Human Power Club. We’ll chat with club officers Alan Goodman, Barney Harle and Chris Hamilton about their full racing seasons (including the World HPV Championships), member’s unusual HPV builds and the early group history with founding member Dave Larrington. Also Dave Ashenbrener returns with an update on his “Lost Recumbent” AR-3 tilting trike which he has now produced and is available to purchase. Honza, Doug and Nina are back with their segments as well. Midwest Trike Demo Sale – February 27! Posted on February 26, 2021 by Larry Varney