You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
Wheels Brakes and Clamps Front Castor Wheels Handrims Rear Wheels Spoke Guards Spokes Tyres and Inner Tubes
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Stand back. A performance-tuned dual exhaust system uses two resonance-free pipes to emit an enthralling growl from the massive 5-inch matte-black exhaust tips.
"Having the Loopwheels has been a complete life changer for me. I can now go on longer journeys with less fatigue...."
Loopwheels' funding campaign runs on Kickstarter through May 15, 2013. Backer packages range from a single front or rear wheel to both wheels to a Dahon folding bike pre-pimped with its own set of 3-speed Loopwheels.
They won a £24,000 Innovate UK grant in 2013 that helped them to develop the loopwheel for wheelchairs. A further £240,000 grant in 2017 allowed them to work with 2 companies, Strategic Simulation and Analysis (SSA) and Composite Braiding, to further develop the loopwheel to go faster and for use off road and on rough terrain.
Baigh invented a new type of bicycle wheel called the ShockWheel. The ShockWheel incorporates shock absorbing properties into the wheel by using bow-spokes. Unlike conventional fork suspension, the bow-spokes, positioned in a spiral arrangement, allow for compression in all directions. This new design may have the potential to revolutionize the bicycle industry.
Loopwheels for wheelchairs help people push over uneven streets, rough tracks and gravel paths, with less effort, and the carbon springs give you extra power to get up or down kerbs. They reduce jolting and vibration, by as much as two thirds compared with a spoked wheel.
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From an exclusive switch bank, TRX adapts at your command with performance-tuned drive modes for on- and off-road excursions.
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Loopwheels are designed, engineered and made in Nottinghamshire by Jelly Products Ltd. It’s a registered design with patents pending. The story of loopwheels is one of determination, and a streak of madness. They were invented and developed by Sam Pearce, in his home in Nottinghamshire, England. By training and profession, Sam is a mechanical engineer and industrial designer. By nature, he is some one who loves making things: designing, building, doing. He loves simplicity, and products that work well. Sam is practical and hands-on. He is stubborn and doesn’t give up easily. All useful traits when you find you’ve set out on a journey to reinvent the wheel. About Our Work Services Blog Contact About Our Work Services Blog Contact About Our Work Services Blog Contact Loopwheels Choose Wyze We are delighted to announce that Loopwheels has chosen Wyze as their digital marketing partner.
Daniel Barel, the CEO of SoftWheel, told the Jerusalem Post that his company’s new suspension technology is an integral part of the wheel that is selective and symmetric.
A pair of shock-absorbing wheels for wheelchairs with integral suspension, designed to help you go more comfortably over uneven streets, rough tracks, grass and gravel paths.
This extra carbon creates a slightly stiffer spring, which means a comfortable but more stable ride. Loopwheels Carbon are for manual use at speeds up to 7 km/h. For use with a power attachment, choose our Urban or Extreme products instead.
The spring configuration allows the torque to be transferred smoothly between the hub and the rim
Loopwheels reduce the level of vibration—“road noise”—through the chair frame and up into the arms, wrists and shoulders.