You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
As far as treads go, the sky's the limit. Treads bolt directly onto the outer rim piece by piece, and there are a bunch of options to choose from, including a range of pre-molded road retread options by companies such as Michelin that bolt on in sections, or a plethora of heavy-duty industrial options that use polyurethane, urethane or steel pieces in a range of different configurations for serious off-road grab.
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- The suspension blocks are just over two blocks in length, making proper 1-1 alignment with the rails impossible. Their models also stick out in other places making clipping an issue.
To restrain cars from rolling - leaning over on corners - an anti-roll bar is used, often at the front, sometimes at the back and sometimes at both front and back.
There are various ways of attaching the wheels of the car so that they can move up and down on their springs and dampers , and do so with as little change as possible in the distance between adjacent wheels or in the near-vertical angle of the tyres to the road.
The Hot Wheels Massive Loop Mayhem set is a great gift for kids 5+ who love the thrill of stunts, racing and crashing their Hot Wheels vehicles.
The second grant has allowed us to work with 2 other fantastic companies that we just would not have been able to do otherwise. It has allowed us to develop a world-class product. Related content PyroGenesys Deos: delivering faster and better mobile medical screening Power roll: bringing cheap solar power to Africa and India Improbable: digital firm raises $20 million from US backers Beattie Passive opens new factory to meet demand for retrofit Collection Innovate UK: case studies Explore the topic Charities and social enterprises Science and innovation UK economy Disabled people Is this page useful? Maybe Yes this page is useful No this page is not useful
Schwinn High Timber ALX Youth/Adult Mountain Bike, Aluminum Frame and Disc Brakes, 29-Inch Wheels, 21-Speed, Black
Loopwheels are designed, engineered and made in Nottinghamshire by Jelly Products Ltd. It’s a registered design with patents pending.
The story of loopwheels is one of determination, and a streak of madness. They were invented and developed by Sam Pearce, in his home in Nottinghamshire, England. By training and profession, Sam is a mechanical engineer and industrial designer. By nature, he is some one who loves making things: designing, building, doing. He loves simplicity, and products that work well. Sam is practical and hands-on. He is stubborn and doesn’t give up easily. All useful traits when you find you’ve set out on a journey to reinvent the wheel . . .
"I want to say a very big thank you to Rebecca for all her help and patience over the last few weeks. She is a real credit to the company. "
Inspecting your steering and suspension systems requires a range of specific tools and specialist technical knowledge. As these systems are critical to your safety, it is vital that these safety inspections and repairs are carried out by a certified technician if they are beyond your expertise level and available tools.
From their initial musings over 4 years ago to the recent debut at Bespoked Bristol, Loopwheels has been a labour of love for them.
This looks dodgy. As per above – lateral stiffness? You have what looks like three contact points spot welded to the rim. I like my rims to stay somewhat connected to the hubs. These look like they have potential for rather catastrophic failure. Bob McNaughton on April 14th, 2013 - 11:06pm
item 6 Hot Wheels New Track Free Shipping Loop Builder with launcher 6 -Hot Wheels New Track Free Shipping Loop Builder with launcher
The Loopwheels will go on sale in September for £600, and their inventor claims they can make riding on a bumpy road 'like riding on velvet' 44 year old Nottingham mechanical engineer Sam Pearce told MailOnline he came up with idea while watching a mother try and push a child in a buggy up a kerb.
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